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Jake Hicks Photography
  • >>>NEW Colour 2.0 Workshop<<<
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Negotiating with Clients and Interpreting Mood Boards

Technique Tuesday Negotiating with Clients and Interpreting Mood Boards.jpg

This article will cover a client case study on how I organised not only myself, but the client prior to the actual shoot day.

Topics I’ll cover in this article include:

  • Initial client contact

  • Client phone call

  • Pricing

  • Brainstorming

  • Mood boards

  • Interpreting client mood board into an actual shoot plan

  • Final images

Just before we dive in, I just want to remind you that there’s a huge variation in the client jobs you may encounter and each one is almost always unique. The client job I’ll reference here is actually a very simple one as it’s essentially a portrait shoot even though it’s for a commercial client. The reason I chose this client as an example is because it’s a brief overview of some of the questions you should be considering and asking the client on any job, so although this example is fairly straight forward, just bear in mind that this process gets a little more complicated once you’re also dealing with an art director and/or agency in this mix as well.

Case Study - Benny Hancock

The client in question here was Benny Hancock, the owner of a new male cosmetic brand for which he needed some new portraits and commercial advertising pictures for brochures and website. The conversation starts off with some very broad ideas, the initial mood board I received was a little open to interpretation, which we then refined, finalised and most importantly agreed on as our final outcome for the day based on the constraints we had.

Chances are that this may be a typical workflow for yourself too at some point, so I thought I’d share how it went.


JakeHicksPhotography_GS (3 of 12).jpg

Initial Contact

This will likely be different for many of you, but often a potential clients first email is along the lines of;

Hi Jake,
Love your work and I’d like discuss the possibility of working together on something.
Kind regards,
Client X

I appreciate this may sound incredibly vague, but I cannot express how often I receive this as an opening to a job if a client is contacting you directly. I understand it though, they want to see what you come back with and the client is often sending that same message to a bunch of other photographers too. Their aim is often to get an idea of your approach without giving away too much about themselves at first. And by that, I mean their budget.

It’s from here that I’ll quickly try to understand what the job involves without first scaring them off. For example, I don’t want to quote them a day rate for a portrait, only to see that they want a far larger commercial gig or vice versa.

In this instance Benny had his company details in the email (this is your first big clue) so I knew it was likely to be a commercial job. Below that website was also his phone number so I simply called him to learn more. Having their number is nearly always a huge plus as speaking to someone will go a long way to form at least some psychological trust (aka rapport). Plus, many people find it harder to bullshit you over the phone compared to a well crafted email.


The Initial Phone Call

In this initial call, be extremely careful with what info you give away and also remember that anything the client says here is not set in stone until it has been confirmed in writing via an email.

Your first goal is to understand the bare bones of the shoot.

  • What is the subject?

  • How many subjects?

  • How many shots are required?

  • Is this for a company/business or individual?

  • Where will the shoot need to take place? For example, will you need to travel, stay overnight, international trip, is it on location with/without power or is it in a studio?

This really is the bare minimum you need to know before quoting, but you should still have an idea of a day rate for an individual over a business before you pick up the phone. I guarantee you they will ask you, so either have a good excuse ready as to why you can’t quote, or have some ball-park figures ready for a few eventualities. This isn’t set in stone at this point, but don’t expect to get away with doubling your fee later on.

After the phone call I usually know whether this is going to be a smooth job or not. It’s not about how much the client knows about your job, it’s about how much they know about their own job and requirements. Many clients may not know what information you need, but if they immediately know all the answers to your questions I’ve outlined above, you’re probably going to be fine. If they stumble, ‘need to get back to you’ or ‘need to think about it/not sure yet’, it’s gonna be a tougher job for sure. I’m not saying you can’t turn these into successful jobs, but be extremely cautious of assuming anything and always, always thoroughly write everything down in the upcoming email, no matter how obvious it may seem to you.

Thankfully, Benny was the client, the business and the subject so he knew all the answers and resulted in a fairly easy phone call.

JakeHicksPhotography_GS (9 of 12).jpg

Email Follow Up

After my call, I try and get as many of the rough notes from our conversation down immediately. From there, construct a clear and concise email to the client outlining what’s involved.

Here is an outline of what I usually respond with.

 

Heya Client,

Many thanks indeed for your call and for thinking of me and my work for your project.

As discussed on the phone, here are the requirements for the brief as I have it. If anything below is incorrect then of
course please correct me as soon as you can.

Proposed shoot date: xxxx xth xxxx
Location: xxxxxxxx xxxxxx
Deliverables: x-number of hi-res (xxxxpx x xxxxpx) and fully retouched digital files emailed to client
Deliverables Deadline: xxxx xxth - This deadline is contingent on the proofs being sent to client on xxxx xth and client confirming images to be edited by end of day xxxx xxth.
Project Proposal: TBC - Gelled lighting portraits of 1 male model
Project Notes: TBC - Images to be in landscape format for web orientation

Project Pricing
Day rate:
£xxxx
Digital files (including retouching): £xx each
Note that this file price includes the image usage fee for digital online media as well as print media for the next two years.

Total £xxxx (day rate)
xx £xx = £xxx (files)

TOT= £xxxx +expenses

Please note that all images released to you are still the sole property of Jake Hicks and will remain so in perpetuity unless otherwise stated. Images cannot be sold on or reused by any other person or brand without explicit written consent from Jake Hicks. The requested images are to be used exclusively with the Benny Hancock brand only.

Please let me know if you have any questions Client and I very much look forward to working with you on this project.

Like we stated on the phone, get any and all ideas across to me in the form of imagery so that we can lock down what we want to achieve on the day of the shoot. Based on your ideas already, I think the resulting images will look fantastic with my coloured lighting and I'm definitely looking forward to working on this.

Speak to you soon.

Jake Hicks

 

The email is friendly and to the point with clearly outlined prices. It’s useful here to note that I charge for files separately to any job, but you may choose to include them if you want to, although I don’t recommend it.

I will add that I think its an extremely good idea to include a charge for additional files here, even if they haven’t asked for additional shots.

I don’t think I’ve ever had a job where clients didn’t want more images after they’ve seen what I can do, and on most occasions the additional file costs are far higher than the initial job budget appeared to be.

Get your foot in the door and then blow them away with your work, but you can only profit from this if you anticipate it with an up front cost of additional files as early as possible. The trick here is that the client will initially ignore it as they believe it doesn’t apply to them at this point. When they see the shots and want more, the price is already there and you aren’t the ‘bad guy’ later on for seemingly holding ‘their’ images ransom.

Another clear thing here is to outline that you remain the owner of the images and in not so many words, they are simply renting the images from you. This can be difficult to fully understand by some clients, especially if the images are of themselves, but try to include it in your communications somewhere to avoid your images being sold at a later date, especially if brands or companies change hands or images get used in conjunction with a project you don’t agree with. You rarely have to enforce it, and it’s often a prevention over a cure.

One final point for you to consider on this section, is how you get this to your client and know that they are okay with everything you’ve outlined. Many photographers will insist on this being sent via pdf and signed off in writing for example, but I’ll leave that up to you as to how formal you want to take it. That approach may seem a little cold for a maternity shoot for example. Just use your judgement.

Lastly, you’re giving the client an action to follow up on.

“Get any and all ideas across to me so that we can lock down what we want to achieve on the day of the shoot.”

This is your request for a mood board and you client needs to get some example imagery over to you.


Mood boards are simply a means to visually interpret an idea from one person to another. Regardless of whether or not that idea is big or small, they are fundamental in ensuring that multiple people in a project are working towards the same goal and should always be used no matter how big or small the project is.

What is a Mood Board?

We’ve all had a conversation with someone about an idea they’ve had. They explaining it to you in terms like “I’d like a shot like that other gel shot you took. Yunno, the one with the girl in it” or

“I’d love something with a lot of colour in it. Something that’s really cool and edgy!”

If that sounds like a brief you may have had in the past, then it’s definitely time to start using mood boards with your clients. Failure to do so is almost guaranteed to lead to insurmountable frustrations from both you and the client,

A mood board in its simplest form is a collection of images that speak to a visual idea of what you or the client may have in their minds-eye. It is the raw visual representation of an idea. The more complex mood boards can include many, many ideas and even include images, quotes, songs and even physical objects that speak to texture or quality. Some mood boards can be thrown together in minutes and some take many, many months with multiple people in a team adding to it. The final purpose of any mood board is always the same though, to clearly communicate an idea to another person or group of people.

Why is a Mood Board Important?

As photographers we create images that are ultimately unique dependant on location, subject, message and so on. So even if we have a defined photographic style, we still need to be able to produce a piece of work that encompasses the idea the client has and sometimes, they may not even know what that is themselves. A mood board can help to visualise an idea not only for you, but for them as well.

Are they selling a modern product? Are they a customer focused company? Are they primarily selling to other businesses rather than direct to the customer? Does the client want a natural spontaneous portrait, or are they after a portrait that looks like the front cover of an editorial? You need to know all of this information long before you pick up your camera and by exploring all of this beforehand and setting goals for the shoot day, both you and the client can relax when that shoot day comes as you’re both working towards the same thing.


Receiving the initial Mood Board

This client mood board can be a random selection of single images, screenshots, or a pdf. Here is the email I received from Benny along with the mood board he sent.

Hi Jake,

Please see attached mood board of the vibe and things i really like, there is some of your work in there too.

- I wanted to make sure we at least capture me with each of the products in each set up we do.

Kind Regards,

Click to enlarge: Initial mood board received from client


Interpreting the Mood Board

There are a few things we can immediately take from this. Firstly, we have a ton of extremely creative ideas. Yes, this is fantastic and at first glance it looks like a dream client, but we need to reign in the shoot a little. We’ve quoted a day rate, so you need to be clear with what you can technically achieve in a single day. If the client wants x and x, but also x, will it require a multiple day shoot? Only you know what you can achieve in a single day though.

The reality is often that once you’ve agreed a day-rate, that’s the budget so you need to advise the client on what is possible in a single day based on what their core objectives are. In this instance, Benny wanted 5 different looking portraits (setups) so there was a couple of areas I had to be wary of offering with this limited time.

Another thing to be aware of in this mood board is the sheer diversity of imagery. I had to understand why certain images were being included here. After all, some shots may simply be included for colour toning inspiration, posing ideas or mood. The client may not want every aspect of every shot.


Follow up Call

After I had the initial mood board, I felt far better equipped to talk about shoot specifics as we both have reference images to pull from. With this mood board in hand, I called Benny to discuss some refinement.

cara water copy.jpg

It’s at this stage that I like to take some control. The client has sent you ideas and as long as you offer up concrete examples and setups that are based on what has already been sent, you should be totally fine. My goal at this stage is to present 5 setups that I think work best with my experience and expertise, but that also flow together in an achievable way within the deadline of a single day.

For example; see that top right hand image of Cara lying in the water from the initial mood board? That is undoubtably a beautiful image, but is it practical for our shoot? I don’t tell the client they can’t have or do anything, but I do explain the limitations and the potential sacrifices we would have to make in other areas to deliver it.

“We would need to get a paddling pool, fill it with warm water, lie you down, shoot it, then you’ll have to undress, likely shower, dry yourself, go back into hair and makeup and then begin the next setup.”

You’re not saying no, but you’re clearly outlining the setup will be a pain in the ass to do, and that will severely limit what else we can do that day. Don’t get me wrong, if they really want that shot, then great, but we may need to book an additional day or half day to cover everything else.

As the call went on, I suggested 5 setups that I thought would work well together, would work well with the client and what was achievable in a single day.


Understanding the Brand - Big Data

This next section is a little more optional, but I do always try to understand the brand I’m shooting for. Who is that brands customer? How old are they? What sex are they? What is their demographic? What other brands does this brand align itself with?

As a result of me asking some of these questions, Benny sent me an extensive outline of his brand and its potential customers. This outline was provided to him from an ad agency and they have access to market data to be able to create it. I don’t feel comfortable sharing it in its entirety here, because you know, the internet…. But this 300 word brand outline covered everything including exercise routines of desired clients, social status, client aspirations, yearly incomes and much, much more (to be clear, this is ‘potential’ client data, not actual client info).

I realise this info may seem excessive, intrusive or even bizarre to many of you, but this is simply ‘big data’ and many companies can get this data for their brands based on what they want to achieve and it‘s far from uncommon. Whether you agree with it or not, this info is extremely useful to me for a client job as it gives me a broad picture of what we’re tying to achieve. Do we need to be sexy, gritty, luxurious, relatable, aspirational and so on. This all helps to understand the brand and provide imagery that speaks to their customers.


The Final Brief

So we’re finally ready to go. We’ve discussed ideas, got specific with setups and looks and it’s now time to get the final go-ahead via written confirmation from the client. Here is what I ultimately sent back to Benny after our second call.

Click to enlarge: The final signed off brief before the shoot…

It is IMPERATIVE that you get this ‘signed off’ or agreed in writing that the client is happy with this. Of course it is vital that what you sent is also extremely clear and not open to interpretation. What I sent back may look simple, but it is by design to avoid confusion. I’ve clearly outlined 5 setups and within those I’ve outlined some key points we need to bear in mind or include during those setups. These one-word notes can be colours, themes, orientations, key features and more, but I am trying to make them as specific as possible.

This is your ‘shoot-bible’ and from here on out you do NOT reference or use any other images prior to or during the shoot. I have this exact sheet open on my devices and the client sees me clearly working from this very page throughout the shoot. My point here is; don’t send this to the client, and then work off something else or an older/newer version. If the client sees that on the day, the seed of doubt is sown and it will invariably sprout at some point in the future.


The Day of the Shoot

Ironically, this is actually the easiest part. All the hard work has been done up until this point and you can just get on with doing what you do best, actually finally taking some damn photos!!!!


The Final Shots

The final shots aren’t particularly relevant for this article as I wanted to focus on everything leading up to the shoot rather than the shoot itself, but it’s good to see how the final images turned out compared to the mood boards and pre-shoot ideas. Below is just some of the shots the client ultimately purchased.

Click on any of the images below to enlarge them or fit them to screen


Closing Comments

Ultimately this was a very successful job. The client was happy and I loved how the shots turned out too.

I’ll just remind you again of what I was asked for by the client. Benny wanted 5 images from this job. Benny ended up purchasing 17 images!

I’ll say it again, as so many overlook this aspect of pricing, but ALWAYS include a cost for additional shots in your invoice and even if you’re going to include some shots in your initial quote, breakdown and outline the cost of the shots separately in the invoice. By doing this, you’re being open with your pricing and you’re not being seen as holding photos ransom now that you know the client wants more.

This final invoice ended up being far greater than the initial budget and this is money that you could be missing out on.

Secure the job, then blow them away with your imagery for free money afterwards!


Thank You

As always, thanks for checking out this article and spending a little bit of your day with me here. I hope you found it useful and that you left with a little more knowledge than when you arrived. If you did, then this was worth it. If you have any questions or comments or if something doesn’t make sense, then by all means fire-away in the comments below and I’ll do my best to answer what I can. Thanks again and I’ll see you in the next one.

Don’t forget to sign up to my newsletter to be sent all of these photo tips and techniques articles every month in case you miss one.


Further Business Info

If you’re after some more advice or tips on your photo business, then feel free to reach out to me to discuss a one-2-one mentoring session. If you’re interested to see what’s on offer, follow the link: Jake Hicks Photography Mentoring

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Tuesday 02.09.21
Posted by Jake Hicks
Comments: 2
 

Creating Gradients with Coloured Gels

Technique Tuesday Creating Gradients with Coloured Gels.jpg

Using coloured gels can be a little unforgiving, especially if you’re new to using strobes. But one of the biggest reasons using gels can be tricky, is due to how hard it can be to use multiple coloured gels in the same setup. Coloured lights do not play well together and unlike paint, where you can create new and wonderful colours by mixing them, mixing coloured light often results in dull, washed out colours. Coloured gels do not mix and consequently must ordinarily be kept separate in your shot at all times.

Thankfully though, in todays setup I will be showing you how to mix coloured gels with incredible ease, in fact it’s so easy, we’ll only be using one light to do it!

Note: I’ve merely brushed up against the extensive issues of mixing coloured lights, but it’s actually a fairly complex topic. If you’re interested in learning more about it, I do go over it in a LOT more detail in this article: How to Avoid Colour Banding when using Coloured Gels - This is a monster article that really gets into the weeds of colour theory, but remember, you don’t need to meet the cow to enjoy the burger! You have been warned.


The optical snoot is among my absolute must-have modifiers and although I didn’t think I needed it, as soon as I started to see what it could do, I loved it!

The optical snoot is among my absolute must-have modifiers and although I didn’t think I needed it, as soon as I started to see what it could do, I loved it!

The Magic Modifier

So if we’re only using one light, you’re probably assuming that we need a specialist lighting modifier, right? Well kind of, as we’ll be using the good ‘ol ‘Optical Snoot’ for this one.

I personally don’t see the Optical Snoot a specialist lighting modifier any more and I really do believe this is a must-have modifier for any strobist at this point. Sure, get your softbox and your beauty dish first, but then get yourself an optical snoot. I guarantee you won’t regret it and once you have one, you’ll end up using it way more than you thought you would.

For regular folks who’ve followed my work for a while, you’ll already know that I’ve spoken about the optical snoot a lot already, but if you’re unaware of what this magic modifier does, you can see my full review on it here: Optical Snoot Review

The optical snoot has a very specific quality to it thanks to its ability to create incredibly hard light resulting in the modifier producing very strong shadows and highlights. Its other core feature is that it can shine very defined highlight and shadow shapes thanks to its focusing lens at the front. The shapes that it shines are often referred to as gobos and they are metal disks with patterns cut into them that sit in the modifier itself. You don’t have to use the gobos though and I often just use the optical snoot as a very hard light source and that’s what I’ll be doing again here in the following lighting setup.

Gelled Colour Gradients

As I mentioned above, if we place gobos into the modifier itself, we can focus the shadowy shapes with razor sharp edges thanks to the lens on the end of the modifier. However, if we place something in front of the optical snoot and not inside it, the resulting shape will be very blurred and out of focus. It’s this feature that we’ll be using to our advantage in this setup.

To create our gelled gradients, all we need do is simply place two coloured gels together in front of our optical snoot. The resulting effect is so blurred that it actually appears to be a colour gradient when it’s shone onto a white wall. Take a look below to see what I mean.

Click to enlarge: By placing the gel combo on the front of the optical snoot, the resulting image on the wall is a blurred gradient of colour.

As you saw in the images above, on the left you have the gel in strips taped together, and on the right you have the resulting image on the wall when placed in front, not inside the optical snoot.

Click to enlarge: The gel gradient really isn’t anything fancy, it’s just two off-cuts of gels taped together…. with CLEAR tape!

Colour Options

In reality, there are any number of colour combos we can create here and you can place any two gels together that you like. In fact, you don’t even need to stop at just two gels and I even created 3 strips of colour for a couple of setups, but more on that later.

As this was an initial test, I just played around with a few off-cuts of gels I had lying around in the bottoms of drawers in the studio. In the image I’ve shared here, you can see a 4” (10cm) square of two gels taped together.

In hindsight, I realised that I didn’t even need to cut up old gels at all. If I just wanted two gel colours together, I could simply tape any two gels side by side and then remove the tape afterwards. It doesn’t matter if you’re using full size gels or small gel off-cuts, as long as it covers the front of the optical snoot, any size will be fine.

NOTE: Just be sure to tape them together with CLEAR tape!

 

Click to enlarge: It’s worth noting that you don’t even need to cut up your old gels either,. You can still use full-size gels as you’ll only be shining light through the centre section.

Tip: Choose similar density gel colours

One piece of advice I will offer, is that when choosing gels to tape together, be sure to consider the gel density of the two gels you’re using. For example, try to combine two gels that appear to let the same amount of light through them. For example, my pink and teal gels from my Definitive Gel Pack are fairly similar in density, but you couldn’t really use the navy blue gel and yellow gel together from that pack as the difference in exposure needed to make these work is simply too great.

Click to enlarge: Always try to choose two gel colours that are similar in density. That way they will both let the same amount of flash power through them.


The Setup

The good news here is that there’s not too much to explain. Get your optical snoot and hold or otherwise secure your gel combo to the front of it…. Yup, that’s it, you’re good to go!

My advice for the placement of the optical snoot is to always keep it up nice and high. In doing so, the hard shadows cast by this very hard-light modifier are always cast down behind the subject. To this end, it’s advisable to keep the optical snoot almost inline with the camera too, and again this helps to hide those very dark shadows behind the subject, rather than having them cast across wall. Take a look at the image below to see what I mean.

Click to enlarge: Place your optical snoot up high and directly behind you, that way you’ll hide most of the shadows behind the subject.

If you’re after a super-simple one light setup to play with, that is both creative and adds some colour to your shots, then this one is a great place to start. Like I said, all you have to do is place that light up nice and high directly behind you to manage those shadows on the wall and you’re good to go.

If you’re after a little more refinement and depth to this though, read on.


Taking things further…

Of course, no lighting setup article from JHP would be complete without a few more advanced setups to test your patience and sanity. So if you’re after taking things further with some more advanced setups, here’s some extra elements to try.

Multi-Light Setups

The simplest next steps to try will be adding some hair lights and even trying to introduce those as lights on the subject too. In the diagram below, you’ll see that I’ve added one white light with a grid to camera left. This again is positioned up high and angled down. It’s also positioned in such a way that it is not shining onto the wall behind the model. If this happens, it will ruin the colour gradient as it will overpower the colours.

Click to enlarge: Adding an additional white lgiht here will help to not only add some dimension to the model, but it’ll also bring some attention the subjects face.

I’ll say this again as it’s very important, but you must ensure that the new light you’ve just added does not shine onto the wall behind the model. If that happens, it will likely ruin any colour you have back there. Also, the grid that is on that new light is controlling the light from spilling around the room. You could also use a snoot here or even barn doors, the important thing is that you control the light to only be on the model.

Take a look at some of the example images below.

PLEASE NOTE: To allow this article to be shared on social media etc. I have now gone back and quickly censored the ever-offensive nipples. So if some of the colours don’t match up in certain areas, that’s why.

In one of the shots above, you’ll notice that I’ve gotten the model to look over towards the side where I have the white light. With her looking that way, the white light is allowed to spill onto the front of her face and that in turn overpowers the colour that is already there. Using this technique can be a powerful way to draw attention and focus where you want it and in this instance, that’s towards the subjects face.


Just one step EVEN further?!

As much as I love using the optical snoot as a modifier, one of its biggest drawbacks for me is its extremely dark shadows. These very dark areas of an image can be very distracting and as I explained above, I often simply try to hide these heavy areas of shadow behind the model. But there are things that we can do to lean into these shadows and use them to our advantage. Next I’ll show you how to colour those shadows with an additional light.

First of all though, I’m actually going to add a lot more shadow to my shot by adjusting my gradient gel. Instead of having two gels creating a gradient on my optical snoot, I’m going to use just a single gel and a shadow on my optical snoot. I appreciate that sounds confusing, but let me explain. I mentioned earlier that placing gels in front of the optical snoot makes them appear very blurred, well this time I’m going to place a gel and a piece of thick card in front of my optical snoot. Take a look below to see what I mean.

Click to enlarge: Just when you thought it couldn’t possibly get any more lo-fi, I used a simple piece of card to create a gelled shadow-grad.

When this gel/card combo is placed in front of my optical snoot, the resulting image is a band of pink that graduates off into heavy shadow. Take a look at the setup below and how it looks in camera.

Click to enlarge: In this shot, you’ll see what the optical snoot with card plus single gel in front is producing.

You can easily see in the image above that the card creating the shadow is so out of focus when placed in front of the optical snoot, that it results in a graduated shadow into the rich pink colour. It’s this heavy shadow that we can now use to add some more colour to via an additional light. To do this we can use any large softbox and by placing that behind us and adding a coloured gel to it, any shadows in the image will now be coloured. Take a look at the setup below to see it in more detail.

Click to enlarge: Once we add the large gelled softbox, you start to see how the colour gradient is achieved once again.

You may be wondering…

‘Why bother adding a gelled softbox to colour the shadow gradient, when you could just as easily use a pink and blue gradient gel on the optical snoot instead?’

The reason we do it in this way is to ensure that all the shadows in the image are coloured. If we simply use the pink-to-blue gel gradient, then the shadows of the model on the background caused by the optical snoot itself will not be coloured, but when we use this more advanced technique, you should see that all the shadows on the background are now coloured and this results in a far cleaner looking image. Take a look below to see the results.

If you’re still not sure what you’re supposed to be looking at, try comparing these shots to the original setup images above in this article. See how the stool and model cast a distinct shadow on the wall behind them? Now compare it to these shots again, see how the colour on the front of the model is now exactly the same colour as the shadow on the wall? As I mentioned above, this simply results in a cleaner looking final image, although it does require a little more practice to get there and make it look as clean as these shots do.


Advanced Colour Manipulation with Colour Balancing Gels

I wasn’t sure whether to include this or not, but seeing as I shot it, I thought I’d share the images here and if any of you find it interesting or useful, then this is a clever little technique to play with.

Essentially this is exactly the same technique that I’ve been using throughout this article and once again I’m going to be cutting up and splicing together coloured gels. Only this time, the gels are actually colour balancing gels, AKA CTO and CTB gels (colour temperature orange and colour temperature blue). Shameless Plug Alert: If you’re interested in getting these colour balancing gels, they can be found in my Utility Gel Pack

For this first experiment, I spliced a strip of CTO between two strips of CTBs. Take a look below at the gel I made.

Click to enlarge: I’m still using the same basic principle of splicing gels, but here I’m using CTOs and CTBs to create a unique effect.

I then placed this new spliced gel in front of my optical snot so that the strips of gel appeared vertically. I then shone that onto the model. The setup couldn’t be simpler as it’s only one light, but the trick comes from adjusting your cameras white balance or Kelvin setting when you take the shot.

Click to enlarge: In this image I want you to not only look at the setup placement, but also the Kelvin value of the shot. I’ve circled the Kelvin in the top right.

Click to enlarge: Now look at the same setup and shot, but now I’ve adjusted the Kelvin to reduce the orange on the models face. Again, I’ve circled the white balance value at the top right.

The key point I want you to look at in the images above is the Kelvin value. I’ve circled it in the top right of each image, but when you shoot the CTB/CTO splice ordinarily, it comes out very visually warm in the middle where the CTO gel is. But if we adjust the white balance/Kelvin on our cameras, we can correct that warm colour and thereby remove the orange looking subject.

Take a look at the resulting image below, and remember, this final image has a Kelvin value of 3,400!

Click to enlarge: Above we have a model photographed against a white wall, yet the wall is now blue and she is the right colour. This is all done with a single light!

The really impressive part about this setup is its simplicity and it really is only one light, yet we have both a coloured white background and a beautifully lit and correctly coloured model all in the same frame.

But can you do the opposite?

So I know someone will ask this, but yes, technically you could do the opposite to what I’ve done above and alternatively place a CTB between two CTO gels. Yes it kinda does work, but I personally feel like the look is less desirable, but you can certainly play around with it if you have the gels to spare.

Here is a shot of that setup below. This image was taken with one light and it has a CTB gel spliced between two CTO gels. This images Kelvin is 4800.

Click to enlarge: Here we adapt the same principle of manipulating Kelvin values, but this time we used two CTOs either side of a CTB!

Bonus Tip…

Don’t forget that you can take any of these principles that I’ve mentioned above and build upon them to create any number of gel-grads and shadow combos. Below is a couple more gel-splices that I played with and I look forward to seeing what other combos will work in the future too. If you test some out yourself and find some cool combos, be sure to let me know in the comments below.

You can almost splice any number or combo of gels together, and although some will always work better than others, especially where skin and portraits is involved, be sure to let me know of any interesting combos you find.


As of January 2021, the Optical Snoot is also on SALE too!

As of January 2021, the Optical Snoot is also on SALE too!

Still not got an Optical Snoot?!

If you still haven’t gotten yourself an Optical Snoot yet, firstly you’re crazy, and secondly here’s a link to the one I use - Optical Snoot at Essential Photo

Plus, I think my discount code still works on their site too. Use code HICK5-OFF at checkout, and yes, if you use that code I will get a free beer for your troubles!

For more info and alternatives to this modifier, check out my article on them here Optical Snoot Review


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Need more gels?

Obviously you wouldn’t personally wound me by visiting my website without already owning a pack of my coloured gels. So if you need any MORE, here’s the link to take a look at what’s on offer - Jake Hicks Photography Gel Packs


Closing comments

In principle, these setups are actually very simple. After all, we’re only using one light in some cases…. and anybody can place one light right? ;) But whenever we use a VERY hard light source like an optical snoot we need to be extremely careful with where we place it due to those unflattering shadows. Plus, we also need to be mindful of what colours we’re combining too. Always use some basic colour theory, but don’t forget to consider the density of the gels too. So before you pull out the tape and scissors and begin splicing old gels, here’s some points to remember.

Points to Remember!

  1. Place the hard light up high and behind you to hide those shadows.

  2. Consider using similar density gels together E.g. teal and pink, not dark blue and light yellow.

  3. Add a white light to the mix to burn away some colour on the subjects face and focus the viewers attention.

  4. Do not allow any white light to fall on the background.

  5. Shadows can be filled in with a softbox and gel. Experiment with variations on how you incorporate these shadows as a result.

Featured Model: Remi Curtice


Thank You

Thanks for checking out this article and spending a little bit of your day with me here. I hope you found it useful and that you left with a little more knowledge than when you arrived. If you did, then this was worth it. As always, if you have any questions or comments about the setups or if something doesn’t make sense, then by all means fire-away in the comments below and I’ll do my best to answer what I can. Thanks again and I’ll see you in the next one.

Don’t forget to sign up to my newsletter to be sent all of these photo tips and techniques articles every month in case you miss one.


Online Workshop - Interested in getting more detail or more advanced lighting techniques and knowledge? How about a one-2-one with me where we can focus on exactly what you want to learn. - More Info

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In-Person Training Events - Actually want to get out of the house and take photos with other humans in the same room? Take a look at my 2021 in-person workshops - More Info

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Tuesday 01.12.21
Posted by Jake Hicks
 

Top 5 Jake Hicks Photography Articles of 2020

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2020 certainly hasn’t been without its surprises, and although many of us will be glad to finally put it behind us, let’s look back over the past 365 sleeps to see what was at least popular in the JHP Archives.

Number 1

Lighting Setup: Bounced Top Light 

A simple yet effective lighting setup is unsurprisingly always a popular article and if it includes a lot of colour and it can all be achieved in a tiny space like a home studio, it’s an almost guaranteed top spot contender!

This Bounced Top Light setup is easy to do and also requires next to no fancy kit and modifiers either, if you somehow missed my most popular article of 2020, be sure to check it out and give this one a go yourself.

Lighting Setup: Bounced Top Light

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Number 2

Using Low Contrast Lens Filters in Portraits

Why are so many cinematographers using Low Contrast filters today? Should you be using them for your work? Are they only for lights, or can you use them on your camera lens too? And are they different to the ‘diffusion filters’ you use on your lens?

If any of that sounds like a question you’d like the answer to, head on over and check out my monster article on low contrast filters and see if you can’t breath some more organic looking life back into your crisp and clinical looking digital shots.

Using Low Contrast Lens Filters in Portraits

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Number 3

Lighting Setup: Foreground Flare

Another quick and simple lighting setup makes it into the 2020 top 5 and for good reason, this one creates a very unique look thanks to its foreground element, and once again it can all be achieved in a home studio space too.

If you’re after a simple lighting setup that adds a creative element in the foreground via hand-held household objects, be sure to check this one out, and like I said, due it’s foreground element, this creates a very unique look every single time you try it!

Lighting Setup: Foreground Flare

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Number 4

DIY Scrim/Silk Frame For Huge Diffused Lighting Modifier

Ever wanted to get beautifully soft and diffused light? Not sure you want to commit to the cost of a ginormous soft box? This article shows you a DIY scrim I made for next to no money and it can all be dissembled and reassembled as many times as you like. These huge scrims are common place in TV and cinema as they are great lighting modifiers for location based shoots. If you think you’ll be shooting on location too, be sure to see if you can add this homemade modifier to your collection.

DIY Scrim/Silk Frame For Huge Diffused Lighting Modifier

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Number 5

Lighting Setup: Diffused Scrim Lighting at Home

Just made your DIY Scrim from the previous article? Want to use it to create some beautiful looking portraits? This article has you covered and in here I explain everything you need to know about making the most from you scrim. This article explains a variety of lighting setups for you to try and from beautifully soft light to the more engaging combination of hard light and gobo light, this article surely has something for you.

Lighting Setup: Diffused Scrim Lighting at Home

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So there you have it, the top 5 articles from the Jake Hicks Photography archives of 2020. I hope you all found something useful in there and I hope you all learned a tip or two. Big thanks to all of you who stuck around during 2020 to check these out as they were published and if you missed any of them at the time, I hope this was handy refresher of the best of the best.

Don’t miss a killer article in 2021!

Don’t forget to sign up to my newsletter to be sent all of these photo tips and techniques articles every month in case you miss one.


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Have you downloaded my FREE 50 page book yet?

I recently released a huge 50 page studio lighting book, absolutely free!

Book 1 - ‘Understanding Light’ is available now and it covers the fundamentals of reading the light in a studio. Follow the link below and download your copy now. This book is free to anybody who wants to check it out, but all donations to the project are certainly greatly appreciated.

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Tuesday 12.29.20
Posted by Jake Hicks
 

Super Simple 2 Light Still-Life Setup

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Big-shock I know. A coloured gel lighting technique from me is hardly surprising, but this time I’m scaling things down and today I’ll be sharing a super simple 2 light setup for still-life.

To be clear, I’m a million years away from being an even remotely good still-life photographer, but I thought I’d share this quick little setup as I had a few questions about some shots I shared in a recent article. Plus, if I, a know-nothing portrait and fashion shooter can throw together this still life setup, anyone can do it.

The article in question was discussing studio lighting clamps and brackets and in there I had photographed the aforementioned brackets with a super simple setup that added a splash of colour.

Take a quick look at the shots in question below…

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(Click to enlarge any of them)

If you missed the article then you can find it here 5 Clamps and Brackets Every Studio Shooter & Strobist Needs


The LED Lighting Setup - (yes, I will cover a strobe version later in the article)

So now that you’ve seen the shots, let me now briefly explain the setup I used to take these. This shoot was actually pretty irregular for me because ordinary 99% of the shots I take are captured with flash. However these were all captured with specialist LED lights. The reason I say specialist, is because these aren’t some 10 dollar LEDs found on Amazon and the quality of these LED lights is extremely high with an incredibly clean neutral colour. For those that may have used LEDs in the past, you may be familiar with some pretty ugly colour tones from some cheaper so-called ‘white’ light LEDs. This may not be a major issue if you can perfectly white balance them later in post, but if you’re using multiple colours in the same shot like I often do, balancing out the white will also shift the other colours.

The LEDs in question are the Spiffy Gear Spekular Modular LED Lights. Essentially these LEDs consist of 4x 30cm/12” bars that you assemble in a variety of ways and the key feature I wanted to use these ones for, was their ability to be assembled in a square like you see below.

The Spekular LED lights consist of modular 30cm bars that can be arranged in a variety of ways…

The Spekular LED lights consist of modular 30cm bars that can be arranged in a variety of ways…

I actually have two sets of these so I had one square of lights above my items to light them with white light, and then I had one set of square lights beneath the objects with a blue gel to add that colour.

Take a look below at the setup in question.

My super quick and dirty still-life setup that has white light above that I can shoot through and blue light below to get the coloured edges.

Click to enlarge any of the above shots…


 

The Strobe Lighting Setup

Now as excellent as those LED lights are, I fully appreciate that not everybody will have access to them. Yes they are extremely convenient, but if you don’t have these strip LED lights, is there a workaround for a very similar look from strobes?

Unsurprisingly, yes there is and I shot a few random images of cameras earlier today to show you the quick and simple strobe alternative.

Creating the Coloured Edges

One of the key features of this setup is the coloured edge light that wraps around our objects. This is incredibly important to have on products that are dark when they are photographed against a dark background as this helps them to stand out. With the LEDs we had a perfect square with a hole in the middle, but for the strobe version, we’ll have to make a small addition to a basic modifier. The modifier in question was a small 60cmx60cm softbox, this is something that nearly every strobe shooter has and the addition we need to make, is to black out the centre so that only the edges of the soft box are visible.

In the example shot I’ve included here, I’m using black velvet to sit in the centre of my softbox. I have a few sheets of card that I’ve wrapped in black velvet to use as flags in the studio, but you can simply fold any black fabric into a square and place it in the middle of your softbox.


Gelling the Softbox

There was one other addition that I made to the softbox and that was to add a coloured gel to it. This is of course up to you and you don’t have to add a coloured gel to your setup, but the added separation of colour against the white light from the front can help to add not only visual impact, but more visual depth and separation to the object you’re shooting.

Gelling a softbox is easy and you don’t need a huge gel to cover the front of it. All you have to do is open up the front diffusion cover and place a gel over the flash bulb on the inside. As long as the flash tube is covered by the gel, all light from that strobe will be coloured. I just used a few small strips of tape to keep it in place and that was it.

One word of caution to you though; if you’re going do this on older strobes that have tungsten modelling bulbs, be sure to either turn the modelling bulbs off, or simply unscrew the modelling bulbs and remove them whist you’re using the gel.

Failing to do so will result in your gel melting.

The last thing I did with the softbox was to mount it pointing straight up in the air via a floor stand and you can see that in one of the pictures above.


Placing the Objects

This can be as easy or as hard as you make it, but essentially we just need a transparent surface for our objects to sit on. This surface needs to be suspended above our softbox and the distance you place it from the softbox will change the lighting you get on the objects. For example if you have the objects very low to the softbox, you will get a far larger rim of light around them. Raise the objects up off of the softbox and the rim of light will get slightly thinner.

I probably had my transparent surface around a 10-12” (20-30cm) above the softbox but I highly recommend you experiment with this as the type of object you’re photographing will also require you to adjust its height too.

The (first) transparent surface I used was a large sheet of glass from a picture frame… it broke when my object fell over and went through it :( So be careful if you’re using that method. The second transparent surface I could find was a small piece of perspex and that’s what you can see in the images here. I used some light stands and clamps to raise it above the softbox, but you could rest it on anything from chairs to stacks of boxes.


The Key Light

Last but not least is of course the key light. This is the light that will actually illuminate your objects from the front. In the original LED setup that I mentioned above, I was using a ring of LEDs to shoot through, but that’s not necessary here. In fact I just used a cheap white umbrella, but another softbox or even beauty dish would also work just as well too.

Place that white light above the object and by ‘above’ I mean that even though the object is lying flat, place the white light in a way so that the object appears to the lit from above.

Click to enlarge

This setup not only requires very limited kit, but it also requires very limited space too. Plus once it’s setup, you can play around with a few variables to get some different looks too. Change the gel colour, raise the object higher or lower to effect the edge light size and even add reflectors or additional lights to get a better looking object light.


The Results

If you’re interested to see how my test shots for this article turned out, take a look below.

(Click to enlarge any of them)

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Closing Comments

Like I stated at the top, this is actually a super simple setup and it only requires two lights, very basic modifiers and practically no space whatsoever to achieve. So if you’re after a quick and easy way to shoot some products, hopefully this may well be of use to you.

Lastly, for those that may have been curious as to exactly what that blue edge light was doing on its own, take a look at the shots below to see what the images looked like with just the blue light on.

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Click on any of the shots above to enlarge them


Thank You

Thanks for checking out this article and spending a little bit of your day with me here. I hope you found it useful and that you left here with a little more knowledge than when you arrived. If you did, then this was worth it. As always, if you have any questions or comments about the setup or if something doens’t make sense, then by all means fire-away in the comments below and I’ll do my best to answer what I can. Thanks again and I’ll see you in the next one.

Don’t forget to sign up to my newsletter to be sent all of these photo tips and techniques articles every month in case you miss one.


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Have you downloaded my FREE 50 page book yet?

I recently released a huge 50 page studio lighting book, absolutely free!

Book 1 - ‘Understanding Light’ is available now and it covers the fundamentals of reading the light in a studio. Follow the link below and download your copy now. This book is free to anybody who wants to check it out, but all donations to the project are certainly greatly appreciated.

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Tuesday 12.01.20
Posted by Jake Hicks
 

5 Clamps and Brackets Every Studio Shooter & Strobist Needs

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What even is a ‘studio shooter’ today? Years ago it was a little easier to define, but due to us having tons of heavy, cumbersome lighting and cameras, we were all pretty grounded in the actual home-base of a studio. Today though, the vast majority of my own jobs are not shot in my own space. I shoot wherever I’m needed and whether that be in a home, an office, hair salon or even another hired studio, I’m always on the move.

The clamps and brackets I’m about to run though in this article are great for all types of studio shooters, and although they will be ideal for those of you who may never shoot outside of your own controlled space, many of these items will be invaluable to those of you, who like me, need to carry, assemble and breakdown their studio setups regularly in a multitude of spaces.

With this run-and-gun shooter in mind, many of these clamps and brackets are great solutions to a multitude of problems that may occur thanks to shooing in small spaces or with limited time constraints. How can we substitute a boom-arm on the go? How can we quickly put a background up here, or hold a reflector if we’re shooting solo?

One thing is for certain though, you will NEVER regret purchasing these clamps and brackets. The longer you own them, the more uses you will find for them.

I guarantee these brackets will outlive your camera, your lenses and even your lighting. You will never get rid of them, you will only buy more of them.


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My Mini-Boom

Before you run off to search for that online, hold on. You won’t find anything by searching ‘mini-boom’ and I’ve accidentally mislead people in the past by calling it that, and although that’s what I almost exclusively use it for, that’s not what it’s technically designed for. This little bracket has a million and one names online, but it’s mostly used to hold an umbrella.

The bracket is designed to sit atop a light stand just beneath your strobe and hold the umbrella reflector in place. I’ve never used it for that purpose though, instead I use it to get symmetrical lighting on my subject by offsetting my key light on my light stand. Take a look at the examples below to see what I mean.

 

Setting this up takes 2 seconds and all you need to do is, firstly ensure your bracket is set to a 90 degree angle and then attach it to you light-stand before you attach your light. You will need to be mindful that this will now put the centre of gravity of your stand and light off to one side, so either weight down the base of the light-stand or at least make sure you’re using a light-stand with a wide leg spread.

As we can see in the left hand image above, this is what a normal light on a light stand looks like. On the right though, we have attached our right-angle bracket/mini-boom-thing first, and then attached the light to that. We now have our light mounted at a right angle and we can now shoot underneath it giving us some beautiful symmetrical lighting.

In this image here we can see that the light is off to one side (see bottom shot) so that we can get the light stand out of the way to take the shot. Look at the shadows on the models right side, see how they are more pronounced and our lighting is not symmetrical.

In this shot, the lighting is far more symmetrical due to us having our light directly in line with the subjects nose (see bottom shot and how the beauty dish modifier is in the centre of the shot). As a result, we now have more even shadows on both sides of the face.


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Where to buy

You’ll find a variety of these brackets available online, but whether you get them via the link I've provided here or not, I highly recommend you get a sturdy all-metal one if you’re planning on using it as a mini-boom like me. We’re not really using it as intended, so a weaker one will likely buckle under the weight of mounting a strobe and modifier on its side.

Tiltable Umbrella Bracket from Essential Photo - Click here to go to the website

-USE CODE ‘HICK5-OFF’ AT CHECKOUT TO SAVE SOME MONEY-

 

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Crab Clamps

These little fellas are far more lightweight, and although they don’t have one specific task, I ordinarily carry a few of these on every shoot as they will invariably come in handy for any number of tasks. Whether that be holding up fabric to flag something out, hold up objects to use as gobos or more commonly, to hold up large white or black sheets to either bounce or prevent stray light.

All crab clamps should have two holes on the reverse. A 3/8” and 1/4” screw hole that will enable you to use them with both light-stands and tripods.

The key feature for me, is that they can screw on top of your light-stands and then clamp shut around things. If I’m shooting on location, the crab clamps are usually used in conjunction with a crossbar so that I can suspend sheets of black velvet up to limit the bounce of light.

 
The crab clamps have a 3/8” screw attachment point that means you can use them in conjunction with tripods to hold reflectors.

The crab clamps have a 3/8” screw attachment point that means you can use them in conjunction with tripods to hold reflectors.

More importantly for me though, the crab clamps also have a 1/4” screw hole that means they can be attached to the top of your light-stands.

More importantly for me though, the crab clamps also have a 1/4” screw hole that means they can be attached to the top of your light-stands.

Simply screw the crab clamp atop your light-stand and then use a crossbar in conjunction with it to hold fabric for backgrounds or as negative fill like I’m doing here with a large sheet of black velvet.

Simply screw the crab clamp atop your light-stand and then use a crossbar in conjunction with it to hold fabric for backgrounds or as negative fill like I’m doing here with a large sheet of black velvet.

In this setup, I’m using ‘negative fill’ to add some contrast to the sides of my subject. The extra shadows will give more shape and depth to the subject and it’s easily achieved by adding in those large sheets of black velvet either side of the mod…

In this setup, I’m using ‘negative fill’ to add some contrast to the sides of my subject. The extra shadows will give more shape and depth to the subject and it’s easily achieved by adding in those large sheets of black velvet either side of the model. If you were in a studio, you’d simply use two large black sided poly-boards either side, but on location (I’m shooting in the clients salon here), large sheets of easily portable black velvet is quick to setup thanks to the crab clamps.


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Where to buy

Again, whether you pick these crab-clamps up here at Essential Photo or not, try to find ALL metal ones. I’ve bought cheap ones off of eBay in the past for example and the handle section wasn’t all metal so just started spinning freely when any pressure was applied to it. An all metal version like this is what I have now and is far more durable.

Crab Clamps from Essential Photo - Click here to go to the website

-USE CODE ‘HICK5-OFF’ AT CHECKOUT TO SAVE SOME MONEY-

 

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The Super Clamp

This heavy-duty clamp is extremely versatile and although a little pricier than other clamps, one or two of these is all you need for most shoots. This clamps strengths is that it can clamp onto almost any surface or pole in the studio and with its jaws being usable on objects from 5m to 50mm, there really isn’t many things it can’t be used for.

For me though, its true power comes from just how sturdy this thing is. It’s all very well to use a small clamp to keep something in place, but when you really need to absolutely lock something down tight, the Super-Clamp is always the go-to option.

 

If you’re not sure what properties make the Super-Clamp useful, then beyond its versatile jaws, its ability to take a standard lighting spigot is huge. From here, we can then attach any number of other brackets, but more importantly lights.

Take a look at one of my popular uses for a Super-Clamp below as I use it to attach a fill-light directly to my key-light stand.

Here you see me using the super-clamp to attach my fill light directly to the key light stand. This not only saves a lot of floor space, but it also keeps your setup perfectly in line.

Here you see me using the super-clamp to attach my fill light directly to the key light stand. This not only saves a lot of floor space, but it also keeps your setup perfectly in line.

There are many benefits to setting up ‘clam-shell’ lighting like this. Firstly, you don’t need a floor stand to attach the fill light to. That also has the added benefit of not needing to fight for floor space either. The gaggle of light-stand legs is often bad enough, but by using the super-clamp like this, we free up a lot of room. Secondly; having the fill light attached to the key light like this simultaneously acts as a ballast for the key as well. This whole setup is rock solid and we can move the entire thing around by just moving the one stand. Plus, both lights are always kept perfectly in line and with them both on the same axis, you never have a situation where your fill light is off to one side compared to your key.

There are many, many ways to use this Super-Clamp (presently I have one clamped to the back of my desk holding a light in position for my webinars) and from holding up backdrops to suspending lights up high, if you need a heavy duty and rock solid solution to holding something somewhere on set, the Super-Clamp is always the answer.


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Where to buy

I’ve had my Super-Clamp for years and it looks a little different to this one here. One thing to check, is if they come with a ‘spigot’ (I talk about spigots later in the article if you’re not sure what I’m referring to). Having a spigot is crucial as you need that to connect it to lights. The Essential Photo one has one here, plus it also has a square wedge. This is great if you just want to use your clamp on flat surfaces and not just round poles.

Super Clamps from Essential Photo - Click here to go to the website

-USE CODE ‘HICK5-OFF’ AT CHECKOUT TO SAVE SOME MONEY-

 

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The Clip-Clamp

That’s not it’s real name, but that’s what it’s called here at the studio because that’s essentially what it is. The clamp is really just a very heavy duty spring-clamp that can hold a variety of (usually flat) objects like reflectors for example.

I have a few versions, but my one here doesn't actually have a spigot already attached to it. I recommend you get one with the spigot as part of it as that’s usually pretty vital for it to work and I’ll link the appropriate one down below.

Having that spigot sticking out of the side means that you can use it in conjunction with other clamps and brackets, namely the mini-boom thing, and the Super-Clamp both work well with it too.

 

If I’m being honest, this is probably the clamp I use least, but thats not to say that I don’t use it for other aspects outside of studio work. As I write this, I’m using two clip-clamps next to me on my desk. One is clamped to the desk holding a microphone and the other is clamped to the desk holding a camera monitor. As with many clamps, they are extremely versatile and you’ll always end up using them for something. But when I do use them whilst shooting, it’s nearly always to hold a large white reflector next to the model. This, in direct contrast to the black velvet, helps add some light to the shadow side of my subject. Simply affix the clamp-clip to the mini-boom from earlier and then in turn attach that to the top of a light stand and voila, you have a portable reflector.

Here I use my clip-clamp with a mini-boom to hold a large white reflector on top of a light stand. This large white reflector can then be used to bounce in some much needed light onto the subject.

Here I use my clip-clamp with a mini-boom to hold a large white reflector on top of a light stand. This large white reflector can then be used to bounce in some much needed light onto the subject.

Regardless of what you use this for, you really do need to use it with other clamps for it to become useful. All the other clamps I’ve mentioned are extremely useful by themselves, but the clip-clamp really only shows its true potential when used with the others.


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Where to buy

As with many other clamps and brackets in this article, there are a bunch of variation and variety among them. My one is an older one and as such needs an independent spigot to make is useful. The one here has the spigot end already attached which makes it useful straight away.

Clip-Clamps from Essential Photo - Click here to go to the website

-USE CODE ‘HICK5-OFF’ AT CHECKOUT TO SAVE SOME MONEY-

 

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The Gel-Clips & Magnets

Phew! We can finally talk about gels again. You didn't think I was going to write an entire article without mentioning gels did you?! Plus, I’ve actually saved the cheapest and best clamps for last.

These little clips have saved me so much time and frustration in recent years and you’ll be pleased to know they cost next to nothing.

These clips really only have one job in the studio (yes, I’m sure you can use them for other things. Maybe even to hold stacks of paper together, but that seems like a wasted opportunity to me), and that job is to effortlessly hold your beloved gels onto your lights.

In the past when I was a heathen, mouth-breather, I used to use tape to hold gels onto my lights, but ever since I discovered this little trick, I’ve never removed a sticky, hot glob of gooey duct tape from my lights or gels ever since.

 

In conjunction with those little clips, you’ll also need some strong magnets…. and that’s it.

Simply clamp your little bulldog clip onto your modifier, fold back the arms, get your gel in position and then lock them in place with a couple of magnets.

As I already mentioned, this is super-simple, but there are a couple of quick things to bear in mind before picking these up. I personally found that the 25mm clips were the perfect size for most situations. You’ll ordinarily be using these to affix gels to round modifiers. If the clip is too wide, it struggles to grip the smaller modifiers effectively.

The little foldback clips I use are 25mm long and I’ve found this size to be the most versatile for the lighting modifiers I use.

The other thing to bear in mind is the magnets. You’ll want a pretty strong magnet to work with these clips as they’ll often be holding multiple gels and a weaker magnet isn’t going to be able to do it. The ones I use and the ones I recommend are called ‘Rare Earth Neodymium Magnets’. They sound exciting and expensive, but they’re not. I use ones that work well size-wise with the clips and are 30mm long and 10mm wide which is perfect.

Strong magnets are imperative for this to work and the ones I use are 30mm by 10mm and are called&nbsp;‘Rare Earth Neodymium Magnets’.

Say goodbye to sticky gels and modifiers and embrace this cheap and simple hack. Every photographer I’ve shown this to so far has said ‘why the hell didn’t I think of this sooner’ and I wish I had too.


Where to buy

These little items are a little harder to recommend links for as I’m sure the links will change and become outdated very quickly. Below is a couple of potential winners on eBay, but if those links are no longer valid when you check them, try searching ‘Rare Earth Neodymium Magnets 30mmx10mm’ and ‘25mm foldback clips’

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Here’s a link to eBay below because Amazon doesn't need any more of your money. If it’s not still working when you get here, try searching ‘25mm foldback’ clips and you’ll surely find a bunch of options.

25mm Foldback Clips - Click here to go to the website


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Here’s another link to eBay and although this link should be good for a while, eBay links change a lot over time, so if it’s not valid, just search ‘Rare Earth Neodymium Magnets 30mmx10mm’

Rare Earth Magnets 30mmx10mm - Click here to go to the website


 
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Pro-Bonus-Tip: Spigots

You may have noticed one trait throughout the majority of the other clamps and brackets I shared, and that is of course that they all use these little metal things. These are called spigots and they are essentially the connectors between everything. The spigots are what attaches your bracket to what it is you’re renting to hold and whether that be a strobe or another bracket, they are pretty essential to the whole process.

I have a whole bunch of these that I’ve accumulated over the years and although there are a few different shapes and sizes out there, my recommendation is that you get the ones with the 1/4” thread on one end, and a 3/8” thread on the other.


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Where to buy

As always, you can get these in most places. There’s really very little difference among them so you should be fine no matter what you buy. The only core difference I’ve seen is the colour and some don’t have the two different sized threads on each end. I personally recommend trying to get the ones that do have both threads though as it’ll give you more options in the future.

Spigots - Click here to go to the website

-USE CODE ‘HICK5-OFF’ AT CHECKOUT TO SAVE SOME MONEY-

 

Closing Comments

So those are my top 5 brackets and clamps every studio shooter needs. Whether I’m in the studio or not, we have what we call a ‘metal-work’ case where all of these bits are kept. As you may well imagine, this case is getting pretty heavy by now, but it does house all of the useful brackets and clamps that I’ve collected over the years. By now, that case has some obscure clamps that only get used on occasion, but the vast majority of the time we simply just use a combination of the brackets I’ve mentioned above. Plus, many of these, like the mini-boom-thing, is used on almost every shoot.

The sooner you start building your ‘metal-work’ collection, the better. And like I said at the start, I can almost guarantee these things will far outlive your camera and other tech-dependant items, so just consider them an investment.


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Please note:

Although this is not a sponsored article, the folks over at Essential Photo occasionally send me gear to test and review and as such they have given me the discount code ‘HICK5-OFF’ for you guys to use on their site. It’s a storewide code and it’ll save you money on whatever you purchase there and although I don’t get commission on that code, I do get a little kick-back if you use the links I’ve provided in this article.

Thanks in advance if you choose to use them <3


Thank You

Thanks for checking out this article and spending a little bit of your day with me here. I hope you found it useful and that you left here with a little more knowledge than when you arrived. If you did, then this was worth it. As always, if you have any questions or comments about any of the clamps or brackets above, then by all means fire-away in the comments below and I’ll do my best to answer what I can. Thanks again and I’ll see you in the next one.

Don’t forget to sign up to my newsletter to be sent all of these photo tips and techniques articles every month in case you miss one.


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Tuesday 11.03.20
Posted by Jake Hicks
 
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