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Jake Hicks Photography
  • >>>NEW Water Shoot Workshop<<<
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A New Generation of Lights

Donate & Support

I've always wanted my photography education on here to be free, so although there is no paywall to any of my -Technique Tuesdays-, any and all support is greatly appreciated. ❤️

PLUS: Donate any amount and I’ll send you a link to the hi-res print version of my studio lighting book.

||

PLUS: Donate any amount and I’ll send you a link to the hi-res print version of my studio lighting book. || PLUS: Donate any amount and I’ll send you a link to the hi-res print version of my studio lighting book. ||


For many of us, flash is our tool of choice. It’s a tried-and-tested instrument that is like an extension of ourselves. We use them every day, and they can tackle every lighting problem we throw at them. So if flash has everything covered, why am I so excited about LEDs?


Preface: I was recently commissioned by Profoto to produce four campaigns to demonstrate the power and creative potential of their new L600C/D LED heads. The videos and articles on those shoots have already been released (article here: 4 Photoshoots with the new Profoto L600C LED ), but Profoto also asked me to write a second article on my thoughts surrounding LED lighitng, coming from someone who has spent over 2 decades shooting with flash. Below is that second article in full, and you can also read it (in three parts) on the Profoto website here: A New Generation of Lights


Worth the wait?

It’s no secret that Profoto is a little late to the LED party. Many lighting brands have brought several LEDs to market in recent years, so what’s so special about Profoto’s latest offering? Is it worth the wait?

I’d actually been aware that Profoto had been working on a secret LED project for a little while now, so to say I was excited to see what they’d come up with would be an understatement. Thankfully, I was not disappointed. Earlier in 2025, Profoto announced two new cinema lights, but these were different to their previous movie-light-monsters. Their new L600D and L600C were noticeably more compact, and these heads seemed far better suited to hybrid work. Sure, these lights could absolutely hold their own on any TV and film set, but they were also small enough to be used in photo studios without the need for a small team just to get one head on a stand!

For clarity, the L600D is the daylight LED head. Yes, it still has the colossal Kelvin range, but it’s not got the full RGB spectrum the L600C has. For anyone who’s seen my work before, I’m sure you can guess which light I was excited about testing, and yes, the L600C is the head I finally got to play with recently.

If you’re curious to see the results from that campaign, and my initial thoughts on the L600C, then you can find all the details on that shoot here: 4 Photoshoots with the new Profoto L600C LED


The new Profoto L600C/D LED light can take any of the 100+ Profoto lighting modifiers.

I don’t need any more lights, right?

So, with the Profoto LED prologue out of the way, why am I excited about these new lights and LEDs in general? For context, I’ve been shooting with flash since the late nineties. Flash is absolutely an extension of my arm at this point, so when LEDs were introduced to me by several lighting brands, I was hesitant to say the least. I already have more flashes than I’ll ever need. Flash does everything I want it to, so I don’t need LEDs as well, right?

This was my first mistake. LEDs aren’t simply ‘just another light’; they really do add something unique to my work over flash, it’s just that I didn't know it yet.

I’d argue many photographers are guilty of making that same assumption. “My current lights are fine, I don’t need to replace them.” This is true, and I didn’t replace my flashes with LEDs. I still have my flashes, and I can easily shoot with them alongside my new LEDs. You have to remember that LEDs have come a very long way in recent years. These new 600W Profoto LED heads are seriously bright. These aren’t the crappy 4W LEDs of years ago, and these new LEDs can easily keep up with and work alongside your current flashes without needing to equip your strobes with welding glass first.

Again, I feel it’s worth reiterating the fact that these new LEDs can work alongside your current flashes. This isn’t a DSLR-to-mirrorless situation, where you had to sell all your old lenses and start again. You can add LEDs to your current lighting lineup one light at a time if you’d like, and then simply introduce LEDs into your setups as you would your older flashes.

Are there any benefits to shooting with LEDs?

This is the part that I’d initially overlooked. Can LEDs really offer me anything different or unique compared to my flashes? It’s here that I have to avoid sounding like a car salesman, but I’d urge you to look at LEDs with their ‘benefits’ in mind and not just their ‘features’.

Sure, it’s very easy for me to sit here and list off the L600C’s features. The industry-leading TLCI 99 offers unrivalled colour consistency. It’s 16 million+ colour choices, offering more colours than you could ever need. The liquid cooling in the head eliminates the annoying control box and power brick from dangling around the stand. Flicker-free 16-bit dimming offers flawless control… and this very comprehensive feature list goes on and on, and I can outline the key ones at the end. But these are the features of the light. How do these features of LEDs actually benefit us, photographers?

I’m happy with my flash. Aren’t I?

I know for a fact that you’ve all experienced this at some point. That thing you never thought you needed until you had it. Heated car seats. Non-stick baking trays. Dishwashers. And for us old folk, autofocus. These are solutions to problems we didn’t know we had, and this new generation of LED lights is doing precisely that.

For well over a decade, I had a few packs of coloured gels with a good mix of colours that I could gaffertape to my flashes. I was good with that. I had some colour temperature gels that I would somehow smother my softbox with. I was good with that. I had a tungsten modelling bulb that wasn't the same colour as my flash, and it melted my gels. But I was good with that.

We’ve been dealing with these inconveniences for so long that we’ve actually forgotten they were a problem.

I don’t need to be a professional salesperson here to demonstrate how LEDs immediately eliminate those ‘inconveniences’.

But if you’re someone who's happy with manual-focus lenses and melting your coloured gels, can LEDs offer you or your work anything unique? This is the part that I find fascinating about LEDs. They really can offer us some unique properties that flash simply can’t and most of them, I’d never even thought of until I started playing with them.

These new Profoto L600C and L600D LED heads are incredibly quick and easy to set up, thanks in large part to their lack of an annoying control box or power brick dangling from the stand!

Are Hybrid Shooters the New Photographers?

Many of you know that LEDs are great for hybrid shooters who shoot stills and video. I’ve been a professional photographer for a very long time, but I don’t shoot video. I never have. I don’t have video anywhere on my site. I don’t advertise or promote it. Yet, I still get asked to shoot video. I’ve managed to avoid it so far, as it doesn't interest me, but clients still ask for it.

Thankfully, I’m established, and if I play my cards right, I could probably skate through the rest of my career without having to shoot portrait orientation videos of a group shot or edit a 15-second reel of a 3-day photoshoot. But I’m old. Do you think a young person entering the industry today will be so lucky? Not a chance. The next generation of photographers will absolutely have to shoot video as well as stills. So, do you think a new photographer will purchase two sets of lights? One set of flashes for stills and one set of LEDs for video? I know you know the answer.

Breathing Portraits

So are there any benefits to these new ‘video’ lights for us still shooters? One aspect of flash that I’d forgotten about is that it always freezes the subject stock-still in razor-sharp clarity. You can’t dial that back. No matter what shutter speed you use, a flash typically records the scene at around 1/4000th of a second. You can’t capture someone ‘kinda still’ with flash. This is no longer the case with LEDs, and finally, us studio shooters can dust off the shutter speed dial on our cameras and start to use it as a creative tool and not just a technical one.

Trigger Warning: I’m about to lose some of you, so I apologise, but I’ve started to shoot some studio portraits at 1/30th and even 1/15th of a second!

For those of you still reading and with my studio-lighting heresy aside, these far longer shutter speeds, in conjunction with the continuous LED lights, allow for the subject to come alive in a portrait. In a time when many photographers use the same camera from the same brand, modern photography can start to look a little homogeneous. Couple this with generational distrust of imagery thanks to AI, and this very modern, clinical look to images can leave people cold when they view them. To be clear, there is absolutely a time and place for very polished and pristine photos where we can see the DNA in every pore of the subject’s skin, but if you’re after something with a little more story to it, a very slight sense of movement to the image can give it a little extra life.

Image shot with LED lighting only and with a camera shutter speed of 1/15th of a second. No, not everything is pin-sharp, but continuous lighting from LEDs does allow us to capture a little more motion and story in our images, as the shutter speed can once again be used as a creative tool.

The portrait above was shot at 1/15th of a second. Yes, there is some movement in the image, and no, the eyes aren’t pin-sharp due to some slight movement, but that all adds to the image's story. The hair in this shot has even more motion to it, and the image as a whole feels a lot more alive, and dare I say ‘cinematic’, than if I’d shot it with a flash at 1/4000th of a second. Again, there is a time and a place for this, and I certainly don’t shoot all my shots 1/15th of a second, but LEDs and their continuous light now give me options that I simply didn’t have before.

Unique Colours

Don’t panic, I’m not claiming LEDs have invented any new colours, but with their advanced interface and the way they seamlessly switch to different colours instantly, they can offer some truly unique colour-looks that simply aren’t possible with flash.

In the images above, I’m using a pre-programmed LED colour effect to seamlessly change the colours during a long exposure, and you can see the varying colours being displayed on the background. This technique of using the looping LED colour effects during long exposures has a ton of scope, and its possibilities are still largely unexplored. I’m certainly looking forward to delving deeper into these new LED effects.

Kelvin as a creative tool

For those of us who’ve been shooting for a little while, we’re probably pretty familiar with the Kelvin range and how to use it to ‘correct’ some of the lighting issues we might encounter. One of the biggest surprises for me with LEDs was just how much I use the Kelvin range on these new heads. Sure, we had colour temperature gels with flash before, but they were fairly limiting. Yes, we had 1/4, 1/2, and full CTO (colour temperature orange) and CTB (colour temperature blue) gels before, but they were nowhere near as flexible or as comprehensive as a simple Kelvin slider on nearly all modern LEDs. Plus, those gels were a nightmare to use on larger modifiers and gelling a 4ft octa with a CTO was not only time-consuming and costly, but also a massive pain in the ass.

Now with LEDs, you simply turn a dial, and in seconds, you have whatever Kelvin your heart desires. And this is something I utilise on nearly EVERY photoshoot I do. You can spot a flash shot a mile away, as it's often the base 5500K, and every shot looks the same because of it. Now, if you want to tell more of a story with your subject or scene, you can choose a Kelvin colour to match the tone. Warm up the key for a more organic and natural look, or cool it down for a more industrial and colder look. The Kelvin slider on LEDs is a great example of a tool I never thought I needed, and now I use it on nearly every shoot.

Having the ability to so quickly and easily adjust the Kelvin of your lights, allows you to use Kelvin as a creative tool, not just a corrective one.

In the image above, I’m using an LED to light the model's face, and you can see it's set to a very warm Kelvin. The other blue tones you see in this shot are actually daylight, and I’m using a combination of extremely warm Kelvin to contrast the colder daylight, then balancing it in-camera via the white balance. Firstly, yes, you can use these powerful modern LEDs outside in conjunction with daylight, and second, this setup takes seconds to achieve thanks to the convenience of the onboard Kelvin slider. It’s also worth noting that the new Profoto L600C/D lets you crank the Kelvin range to the proverbial 11! Most modern LEDs have a Kelvin range of 3000K to 6500K. But thanks to Profoto’s unique triple-white chip technology, their new LEDs have a staggering Kelvin range of 2000K to 15000K! This vast range allows for some truly beautiful colour temperature contrasts, and you can see me playing with those extremes in colour in my recent shoot with the L600C.

Saturation is now a choice, not a given

The idea of colour saturation as a creative choice at the point of capture is a new one to many. Historically, we’d have coloured gels on our lights, sure, but for the most part, those gels would be very saturated. In most coloured-gel shots you’ve seen in recent years, the colours are vibrant, and the saturation is cranked to the max. Yes, there were softer, pastel gels you could purchase to achieve a more subtle colour, but they were limited, offered a very delicate colour and were tricky to use because of it. Today, one of the most powerful tools a modern RGB LED has is its saturation slider, yet almost nobody uses it. So, again, if you want those beautifully soft and delicate pastel colours, LED lights make it infinitely easier to achieve.

Having the ability to adjust the saturation of all your colours instantly, is a great example of a feature that I never I knew I needed until I had it.

In the editorial above, the styling called for the model to be bathed in softer, pastel tones so as not to drown out the outfit. The saturation slider on the RGB LEDs lets you achieve this look instantly and enables you to make precise adjustments to get the tone you need.

Incredible colour control

I loved coloured gels. In fact, for those who are aware of my work, I have sold hundreds, if not thousands, of my personal gel packs over the years. If anyone was invested in gels, it was me. But the creative in me is sadly stronger than the businessman, and I simply couldn't resist the pull of millions of colours these new RGB LEDs offer.

Even at the peak of my coloured-gel career, I probably only had and used around 15 or 20 colours! Today, nearly every RGB LED on the market has infinitely more colours than that, and the best ones now tout over 16 million! But do we really need that many colours? Well, no…. until you do.

One of the core aspects of any good colour image is harmony and balance. No image contains just a single colour, and so the job is often about choosing the best colours to go together. Sometimes you're using colour theory to do this, and other times you're simply matching colours to styling and backgrounds. It’s this last part that can make gelled lighitng tricky. After all, it’s unlikely you have the specific green gel to match the model's green leather shoes, or the exact pink gel to match the cyberpunk backdrop. This is where those 16 million colours become invaluable, as they allow you to finetune and select the exact tone and saturation of the light to match whatever you’re photographing. So no, you don't need all 16 million colours… until you do.

Matching colours on set has never been easier. Not only do you have every colour imaginable at your fingertips, but you can also see how they look in real-time thanks to LED.

In the shoot above, I had to match the model's pink-coloured light to the background's pink colour. With RGB LEDs, this is extremely easy to do. Plus, since this is continuous light, it's just as easy as turning the colour dial until the colours match. With gels, this is infinitely harder to do, as you’re having to balance Kelvin differences between the background and foreground, plus the modelling bulb showing you the actual colour will often be a different colour to the flash bulb that will ultimately fire and display the final colour! Can you start to see why LEDs are becoming more than just a convenience now?

Portrait captured with the ‘vintage’ Pentax 6×7 from the 1970s, on Kodak Portra 100. This image was taken outdoors with 2 LED lights, and thanks to LED lights no longer needing to sync with our cameras, it’s never been easier to shoot analogue film portraits.

Pre-Vintage… Relics?

Ready to feel really old? Believe it or not, there are young adults today who not only don’t know the difference between an A-to-Z and a Yellow Pages, but also refer to early-2000s digital cameras as ‘vintage’.

If you recall, there was a brief window in time when point-and-shoot digital cameras took over from analogue film cameras. It was a digital gold rush, with camera manufacturers like Sony, Nikon, and Canon leapfrogging one another with their latest releases. Every few months, a new model would hit the market, each one touting more megapixels, more digital zoom and larger screens than their competitors. Of course, this all but came to a grinding halt when Apple announced the iPhone in 2007. Steve Jobs put a camera in everyone’s pocket almost overnight, and with it, the battle for consumer-level pocket digital cameras lost its momentum. It’s this fleeting window in time when digital point-and-shoot cameras were in the limelight, and, shockingly, it's these early digital cameras that the TikTok generation now refers to as ‘vintage cameras’. Thankfully, you and I know differently. We know that the real vintage cameras are the ones that aren’t digital at all. The real vintage cameras are the ones that took almost infinite patience, a lot of confusion and tears, and most of all, an awful lot of money wasted on film.

So with all that in mind, I’m sure you’ll all be overjoyed to hear that it’s now once again time to gird your wallets in preparation for the new analogue resurgence thanks to LEDs. That’s right, now that LED lights are powerful enough, we can use them with our old vintage cameras without the excuse that we can’t sync our strobes to the old tech! You’re welcome.

Joking aside, I have genuinely been enjoying shooting with some of my old film cameras again, thanks to LED lighting. No, syncing flashes to old cameras wasn't impossible, but even with the old leaf shutters, plenty of misfires happened, and if you recall, every misfire costs you money. LEDs have thankfully made my film photography far more consistent and, dare I say it, far more enjoyable.


The Best of Both

Much of what I’ve discussed above highlights some extremely functional benefits to working with LEDs. Some of them are truly unique to LEDs in general, but there is one final feature found only on this brand-new Profoto L600C LED light.

It’s a truly remarkable feature and one that has the potential to be fundamentally game-changing to photography.

The new Profoto L600C and L600D LED heads can both be used in continuous or flash mode and they can even shoot both simultaneously.

The L600C Can Flash

At first, it may not make sense as to why I think this is such a big deal. After all, I’ve just spent all my time up until this point telling you that you no longer need flash, only to turn around and tell you that flash is a game-changer.

To be clear, the Profoto L600D can flash as well; it’s just that it only flashes in its vast Kelvin range. It’s the L600C that can flash in all 16 million+ colours, which is what makes this light so impressive. Yes, we’ve had other LED lights dabble in flash in the past, but the L600C is, to my knowledge, the only LED light in the world that can flash in full RGB and is modifiable. Yes, you can benefit from all the features I’ve listed so far, and you can do it all with any of the 100+ lighting modifiers Profoto has to offer. You want pastel colours in your beauty dish? Done. You want your extreme 15000K in a softbox? Done. You want your RGB flash in a hard-light spot? Done.

Flash is far from dead, and there are still many benefits to be had from flash. The only difference now is that between the new L600C and L600D, you can have the best of both worlds. You can have all of those incredible colours and Kelvin options, but you can do all of that with the flash function on these LED heads as well.

It’s worth noting that I’m using the term ‘flash’ generally here. These lights don’t contain any xenon tubes or anything; they are simply synthesising the very short pulse of light we are familiar with seeing when using strobes. The tech and nuance of these brand-new LED pulses is an entire article in its own right, and I’ve gushed over these lights long enough already. But I will leave you with a couple of final benefits to consider before I let you go.

LED lights like these Profoto L600D/C are now getting very bright. So bright in fact, that it would get uncomfortable pretty quickly if you were a model sitting in front of them for extended periods at max power. The flash feature instantly negates that discomfort, as you can now have the modelling light set low while the actual image is taken with a far brighter flash (pulse). This is also useful if you’re after those larger, more flattering dilated pupils in the final image, too.

Long Exposure Flash Photography…. all in one light!

For those familiar with my work, you’ll no doubt have seen some of my long exposure photography. The very unique and very creative process of long exposure photography has always fascinated me, as it’s one of the very few visual mediums that we can’t see with our eyes, yet we can capture it with our cameras. We can’t even capture long exposure in the same way with video.

In the past, long-exposure photography combined with frozen imagery was a real pain. You often needed a great number of lights to achieve it, and you’d invariably melt a stack of coloured gels in the process. Now, with these new Profoto L600C/Ds, you can do it all with a single light and in a single frame.

Historically, this technique was a real pain to set up, but now it’s never been easier. It’s my hope that the versatility of these incredible new lights inspires a new generation of photographers to get creative with long exposure photography once again.


So, was it worth the wait?

I mentioned at the top that Profoto are arriving pretty late to the LED party. Many other lighting manufacturers have already brought several LEDs to market, so are Profoto simply here to throw their proverbial LED hat in the ring? Are they simply making just another LED light just because everyone else has?

Definitely not. The Profoto L600C and L600D LEDs are absolute powerhouses that dominate in every aspect of their class. I’ve listed many of their incredible benefits above, and I’ll list the features below for you to look at yourself, but so much of what these lights offer simply can’t be found anywhere else.

You’ll have to see which of the benefits and features resonate with you, but finally having the ability to flash in any imaginable colour and with any lighting modifier is an absolute game-changer for me and my work. Couple that with the saturation sliders, a vast Kelvin range and all from a very familiar monoblock style head with no annoying control box dangling from the stand, and I’m sold!


Profoto L600C - Features

  • Compact, all-in-one light without ballast for faster setup and easy portability.

  • HydroCTech™ liquid cooling system for quiet, efficient performance in a lightweight housing.

  • Weighs just 6.1 kg (13.4 lbs) — setting a new standard for power-to-weight ratio.

  • Powerful 600W Core-6™ RGBWWW LED engine delivering precise CCT control 2000-15000K, and outstanding colour rendering( TLCI 99).

  • Optional light modes with 16 million colour selections and over 300 preset gels.

  • Flicker-free 16-bit dimming from 0.1% to 100% for seamless precision control.

  • Native Profoto mount and umbrella holder compatible with over 100 light shapers.

  • Flexible connectivity via built-in DMX, Timo-Two CRMX, Bluetooth, and Profoto Air.

  • Profoto Air flash mode enabling HSS flash with 16 million colours and no recycle time.

You can find the L600C on the official Profoto website here: Profoto L600C (600W)

And the Profoto L600D on the official Profoto website here: Profoto L600D (600W)


Donate & Support

I've always wanted my photography education on here to be free, so although there is no paywall to any of my -Technique Tuesdays-, any and all support is greatly appreciated. ❤️

PLUS: Donate any amount and I’ll send you a link to the hi-res print version of my studio lighting book.

||

PLUS: Donate any amount and I’ll send you a link to the hi-res print version of my studio lighting book. || PLUS: Donate any amount and I’ll send you a link to the hi-res print version of my studio lighting book. ||


JHP Livestreams…

I livestream every other Tuesday night via YouTube and there I answer your questions, critique your shots, take community images into Photoshop to work on them and discuss all manner of lighting tips and techniques. I look forward to seeing you and your work there real soon. Jake Hicks Photography - YouTube


All of my more advanced lighting classes are now available online!

||

All of my more advanced lighting classes are now available online! || All of my more advanced lighting classes are now available online! ||

LEARN MORE ABOUT MY ONLINE WORKSHOPS

 
Tuesday 04.14.26
Posted by Jake Hicks
 

4 Photoshoots with the new Profoto L600C LED

Donate & Support

I've always wanted my photography education on here to be free, so although there is no paywall to any of my -Technique Tuesdays-, any and all support is greatly appreciated. ❤️

PLUS: Donate any amount and I’ll send you a link to the hi-res print version of my studio lighting book.

||

PLUS: Donate any amount and I’ll send you a link to the hi-res print version of my studio lighting book. || PLUS: Donate any amount and I’ll send you a link to the hi-res print version of my studio lighting book. ||


I recently had the opportunity to work with Profoto's brand-new LED lights. I’ve been working with strobes for over 20 years and only recently started using LED lights in my work, but LED lights have come a very long way in recent years, so I was extremely excited to see what these new heads from Profoto could do.

I’d never used these new lights before, but I’d read the very comprehensive specs sheet and long list of features, so I had a pretty good idea of what I wanted to test and play with. Below, I’ll share 4 photoshoots that I believe tested several key aspects of the new L600C LED lights. Take a look and see how the light faired in these 4 very different setups.


Preface: I will mention here that I was commissioned by Profoto to create these 4 campaigns with the new L600C LED lights. I was then asked to share my thoughts regarding the lights on their website. If you’d like a more concise version of the article I’m sharing below, you can find it on the Profoto website here: 4 Photoshoot with the new Profoto L600C LED


If you’re unfamiliar with the new L600C & L600D LED heads, that’s totally understandable. I’ll be sharing another hefty article on here soon that goes over my thoughts about these incredible new lights. If you’d like to learn more about the new lights from the Profoto website, you can do so here. The Full Colour L600C & The Daylight L600D


The 4 Photo Shoots

1. Huge Kelvin Range

The new L600C (the full-colour RGB LED head) and the new L600D (the daylight-only version) are extremely feature-rich. Both heads tout a triple white chip that gives them a truly colossal Kelvin range from 2000K to 15000K, and although I’ve used a lot of Kelvin shifts in my work in the past, I was keen to see just how much colour contrast I could achieve with this huge new range.

2. A LOT of colours

The L600C sports over 16 million colours, and although I love my coloured gels, even I only had around 20 colours for my strobes in the past. So, with all these extra colours at my fingertips, I was eager to see what I could pull from these new LED heads.

3. Continuous & Flash

One very interesting feature of these new lights is their ability to flash as well as run in continuous mode. To be clear, this isn't a ‘flash’ in the traditional sense. They don't have any xenon bulbs, but the heads can pulse the LED for a very short duration, thereby simulating a flash. This LED pulse doesn’t have anything like the power output of a traditional xenon flash, and although I’ve not tested the flash capabilities of the L600C/D extensively yet, I’m pretty sure the duration of the pulse is nowhere near as fast as the extremely fast flash durations that are typically as short as 1/4000th of a second.

The fact that the L600C/D can pulse like this is a pretty unique feature for LEDs, and to my knowledge, the L600C is the only LED in the world that can flash in any of its 16 million+ colours, and it can do so with any of the Profoto light-shaping tools attached. This feature alone is a game-changer for me, so I was extremely excited to try it out.

4. Environmental Lighting

Lastly, I wanted to quickly see how these LEDs would integrate into environmental lighitng. As we know, LEDs are great for video, but with these heads being 600w, they are more than bright enough for us photographers to use as well. That said, adjusting the power of LEDs to work alongside other lighting you may find in the surrounding scene for a more environmental shot is extremely easy. Often, ambient light on location is much dimmer than flash, so it can be tricky to mix the two. This felt like a great opportunity to test the new heads alongside some environmental lights I found at the studio.


The Setups

First Setup - The Kelvin Push

Camera Settings

  • Camera - Nikon D850

  • Lens - 85mm 1.4

  • Shutter Speed - 1/400th

  • Aperture - f1.4

  • ISO - 200

  • Kelvin - 4000K

  • Focal Length - 85mm


Kit Used

  • Profoto L600C x2

  • Profoto 4’ Octa Silver

  • Profoto Umbrella Deep White XL


The Breakdown

I’ll start with one of the easier setups, since it's actually pretty simple and very quick to set up: all you need are two lights and a couple of standard lighting modifiers. I’m using two L600Cs, but since we’re only using Kelvin colours here, you could just as easily achieve this setup with the L600Ds instead. -The L600Ds are the daylight equivalent of the full-colour L600C.

Start by placing a large softbox behind the model. I’m using a Profoto 4’ Octa Silver here. It’s this light behind the model that we want to shine the very warm light, so set the Kelvin to a low value. I’m using the L600D’s base 2000K here.

Next, you want to place another large light behind yourself. I’m using the Profoto Umbrella Deep White XL here. I will add that this giant umbrella produces a truly gorgeous wraparound light, and it’s immediately obvious as soon as you open it up and turn it on. It’s this light that you want to set at a contrasting Kelvin colour. For me, I wanted to test the extremes of Kelvin these new heads could offer, so I set this L600C to its maximum Kelvin of 15000K in stark contrast to the other light at 2000K.

That really is it. You’re almost done. All you need to do now is set your camera up and start shooting. Of course, the trick here is to set your camera to a Kelvin (white balance) value that you’re happy with. I’d suggest starting with a value somewhere in the middle. That way, the Kelvin from behind the model will shine through as orange, and the colour and the Kelvin from behind you will shine through as a slightly cooler blue colour.

Continuous & Flash: When I was shooting this set, I had both the L600C heads set to flash mode. They were in continuous mode the whole time, so I could see what each light was doing and focus the camera, but when the shutter was released, the L600Cs would flash. I shot like this primarily to make life a little easier on the model. Directly in front of her was a huge umbrella, and had the full brightness of that light been bearing down on her the whole time, it would have gotten pretty uncomfortable, pretty quickly. By setting the L600C continuous light to low and the flash to high, I can capture a bright image without annoying the model in the process.


Second Setup - Max Colour Set

Camera Settings

  • Camera - Nikon D850

  • Lens - 85mm 1.4

  • Shutter Speed - 1/125th

  • Aperture - f1.4

  • ISO - 200

  • Kelvin - 5300K

  • Focal Length - 85mm


Kit Used

  • Profoto L600C x3

  • Profoto B20

  • Profoto Umbrella Deep White XL

  • Profoto Umbrella Deep White L

  • Profoto Spot Small


The Breakdown

Now, I know it seems as though I’ve cranked up the difficulty with this next one, but remember, although we now have four lights on set, every light has its job, and as long as you know what each of them should be doing, you’ll be fine. We’ll start with our key, which in this case is the big blue light to my right.

The large blue light is the L600C with the Profoto Umbrella Deep White XL attached. This light will flood most of the set, but it’s angled to limit the light-spill on the background.

Next, I’ll place another L600C behind the model and to my left. This light has the Profoto Umbrella Deep White L and is set to a bright pink colour.

The third L600C light on our model is positioned off to camera right, set to a rich orange colour and has the Profoto Spot Small attached. The reason I’m using the Spot Small here is due to the unique way in which it modifies the light. This spot produces a very hard, very controllable light that can be positioned exactly where you want it on set without fear of the light spilling anywhere apart from where you point it.

Lastly, I’m using the Profoto B20 behind the model to light the background. This is actually a Profoto flash, but it’s very small and is far easier to hide behind the model than the larger L600C. Sadly, I didn’t have the convenience of simply choosing the perfect orange colour from a sea of options as I would on the L600C, but instead I had to strap the orange gel I had to the B20 with a couple of strips of gaffer's tape. It’s worth noting here just how easy it is to work seamlessly with both LED lights and strobe units in the same shot, too.


Third Setup - LEDs that Flash

Camera Settings

  • Camera - Nikon D850

  • Lens - 85mm 1.4

  • Shutter Speed - 1/2 Second

  • Aperture - f4.5

  • ISO - 30

  • Kelvin - 4500K

  • Focal Length - 85mm


Kit Used

  • Profoto L600C x2

  • Profoto B20

  • Profoto Umbrella Deep White XL

  • Profoto Softlight Reflector White

  • Medium (6ft x 6ft) Scrim


The Breakdown

It’s here that things start to get a little more creative: in this set, we’re going to mix flash with continuous light in the form of a long exposure image. You may have noticed in the camera settings above that my camera’s shutter speed is set to 1/2 second. It’s during this half-second that the creativity happens, as it's here that we can start creating unique-looking imagery.

To start, let’s get the key light in place. For this shot, that’s the Profoto B20 flash with the Profoto Softlight Reflector White attached. This is positioned above the model’s head and angled down, leaving enough room for me to shoot underneath it. Although it’s obvious that this B20 will be flashing, it’s worth noting that I didn't have the modelling light on for this unit.

Next, we can add the large light behind me in the form of the L600C with the Profoto Umbrella Deep White XL attached. This light is set to a cool blue colour, and the LED light is also set to flash mode. It’s worth noting that I also had this light on continuously. It was set extremely low so as not to affect the image too much, but it did help a lot with the whole ‘focusing in the dark’ issue.

Lastly, we can add our third and final light, positioned behind the model and pointed back toward the white background. I’ve also placed a white scrim between the model and the light to help soften any hotspoting that can occur when using lights close to the background like this. Note that this third light is set to a cool Kelvin value and is set to continuous mode only.

So, to clarify what’s going on in the shot. The light above the model is flashing as soon as I press the shutter. This light captures a frozen image of the model in the frame. Behind me, the big blue umbrella with the L600C is also flashing, and that is also capturing a clean, frozen image of the model. Lastly, the light behind the model is always on, so when I press the shutter and the camera captures light for that 1/2 second, it’s seeing that bright white background behind the model and because I’m not shooting on a tripod, any movement I create with the camera during that time, is displayed as that blue ghosting effect around the edge of the model.


Fourth Setup - Environmental Lighting - Cinematic Set

Camera Settings

  • Camera - Nikon D850

  • Lens - 85mm 1.4

  • Shutter Speed - 1/125th

  • Aperture - f1.4

  • ISO - 125

  • Kelvin - 4000K

  • Focal Length - 85mm


Kit Used

  • Profoto L600C x3

  • Profoto Umbrella Deep White XL

  • Profoto Softlight Reflector White

  • Profoto Zoom Reflector White


The Breakdown

The whole premise of this setup was to incorporate the scene and its lighting into the final image. Most studio lighting starts with a blank black canvas, and you add lights from there. With environmental lighting, you often want to add to what’s already there. One of the biggest problems with this is that you rarely have any control over the lights you’re working with. Take this set, for example, I have two globe-style lights above and behind the model. I can’t control the power of those lights in any way, nor can I control their colour. This setup was about seeing how I could work in conjunction with the environment's lights, not simply overpower them and wash them out.

Firstly, you want to work out the exposure values and colours you're working with on set. So, before I turned on any of my lights, I took a few frames of the scene. From here, I was able to start adding my own lights. To begin with, I brought in my L600C with the Profoto Softlight Reflector White attached. This would act as my keylight on the model and was positioned to my right and angled down. As with a lot of my work, I’m always looking for ways to introduce colour, and you may have noticed my Kelvin is already fairly cool, which enables me to show some colour contrast from the lights. For example, my key-light was set very cool, and you can see that on the model's skin.

The second L600C light was set to camera right, with a simple Profoto Zoom Reflector White attached. This modifier allows for a large spill of light quite quickly, but due to its small size, it also produces a very hard light. This was set to a far warmer Kelvin, and you can see that very rich yellow colour flooding the scene from camera right.

Lastly, I added the final L600C with the big Profoto Umbrella Deep White XL attached. This was set to a low power so as not to dominate the scene, but I did want it to eliminate any heavy shadow areas that might be distracting. Again, this was set to a warmer Kelvin value.


 

Closing Comments

It should be very apparent that these four setups are all extremely different from one another. I shot from clean Kelvin looks to full-colour looks; I mixed flash and continuous for long-exposure shots; and, lastly, I quickly set up an environmental scene at the back of the studio. It’s worth noting that I shot all four of these setups alongside a film crew that was filming the whole thing. And they weren’t just a fly-on-the-wall documentary crew either; every setup had to be broken down and explained through talking-to-the-camera segments, and plenty of B-roll shots were captured as well. We did all this in a single day.

This isn’t me trying to flex; I just want to highlight how quick and easy these LED heads are to work with. I’m not struggling with huge LED lights and their accompanying power-bricks and control boxes. I’m not struggling to gaffer-tape a CTO gel to my softbox. I’m not struggling to set up multiple lights for both flash and continuous lighitng. We got all of this done in a day, and much of that is thanks to how easy and convenient these new L600 LED heads are.

The new L600D and L600C are a best-of-both solution to so many of my shoots. They have the ease of use that millions of colours and a vast Kelvin range offer over faffing with gels, they are very quick and easy to use, thanks to their single monobloc design that many strobists like me are used to, their 600w of power is more than enough power for most studio shoots and I think I was only using them at between 30% and 50% power for many of the shots on the day.

Plus, these new LED heads can flash, and they can do so with all the conveniences and benefits that LEDs offer, like all the colours and Kelvin settings, and, more importantly, they can do all this whilst accepting any of the Profoto light-shaping tools. Meaning it's just as easy to shoot with all these lighting benefits with softlight, like a softbox, or a hardlight, like a spot. This convenience, flexibility, and power are an industry first, though I can see it quickly becoming an industry standard for how comprehensive these new lights are.


To learn more about the new Profoto L600C & L600D, head over to the Profoto website.

The L600C - Full Colour 600w LED Light

>> Profoto Website Direct Link

The L600D - Daylight 600w LED Light

>> Profoto Website Direct Link


Donate & Support

I've always wanted my photography education on here to be free, so although there is no paywall to any of my -Technique Tuesdays-, any and all support is greatly appreciated. ❤️

PLUS: Donate any amount and I’ll send you a link to the hi-res print version of my studio lighting book.

||

PLUS: Donate any amount and I’ll send you a link to the hi-res print version of my studio lighting book. || PLUS: Donate any amount and I’ll send you a link to the hi-res print version of my studio lighting book. ||


JHP Livestreams…

I livestream every other Tuesday night via YouTube and there I answer your questions, critique your shots, take community images into Photoshop to work on them and discuss all manner of lighting tips and techniques. I look forward to seeing you and your work there real soon. Jake Hicks Photography - YouTube


All of my more advanced lighting classes are now available online!

||

All of my more advanced lighting classes are now available online! || All of my more advanced lighting classes are now available online! ||

LEARN MORE ABOUT MY ONLINE WORKSHOPS

 
Tuesday 03.10.26
Posted by Jake Hicks
Comments: 4
 

2 Light Setup - LED Panel Top Light

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PLUS: Donate any amount and I’ll send you a link to the hi-res print version of my studio lighting book.

||

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This isn’t your typical two-light ‘beauty’ setup, but it explores a different way of lighting to not only give you a different look, but it also utilises the unique properties of modern LEDs to allow you to achieve this look anywhere, even in low-ceiling home studios.

For those of you who’ve been shooting for a while, one of the biggest challenges you've likely faced is space. I assure you that you're not alone in this, but I’ll also add that there’s seemingly never enough space to shoot everything you want, so it’s better to just come to terms with that now and learn a few tricks to help you work within the limitations you have.

One of the biggest pain points with space is often a low ceiling. This is more of an issue in certain countries than others, but whether you encounter a low ceiling every day or just once in a while, there’s sadly no working around it, and a low ceiling can dramatically change the way you approach a shoot.

In the past, low ceilings were a death knell for top lights, AKA lights that are suspended above the model. The reason for this is that we were using strobes, and although strobes aren't huge on their own, it’s the addition of a lighting modifier on that strobe that severely limits the space above a model. Plus, that strobe and modifier combo needed to be high enough to be out of shot as well.

In the example shots above, you can clearly see what I mean. It’s not just the strobe that makes these top lights so difficult to use in smaller spaces, but the addition of a modifier that really makes it almost impossible in traditional home-studios.

So why not use a smaller modifier?

I’m sure the immediate response to this modifier size problem is to use a smaller modifier. Problem solved. In theory, yes, but strobes work by emitting a lot of light from a single, centralised point. That big flash of light has to be given time to spread so it can cover a larger area first, which is why those big umbrellas and softboxes are as deep as they are; it's not a stylistic choice. The modifier needs to be that deep to actually work and ultimately produce that soft, even spread of light.

A new way to spread the light

As I’m sure many of you are aware by now, LED lighitng is starting to dominate photography for a number of reasons, but these new lights are not simply a like-for-like replacement to strobes. For one, strobes can produce far brighter light than most LEDs, so to compensate for this lack of power, LEDs spread many small, low-powered LEDs across a wider area, which is the LED panel many of you are likely very familiar with.

There are pros and cons to this lighting design, for one, LED panels can’t be modified like regualr strobes can. You can’t attach a spotlight or beauty dish to a panel. But the panels do have one very important advantage: how they spread their light. As I mentioned above, they generate power in numbers; they have hundreds of smaller bulbs spread across their surface, which means the light is already spread out and very, very soft as soon as it leaves the actual light. Panels don't need any lighting modifiers to produce soft light, and this unique feature makes LED panels so incredible for top lights in small spaces.

In many European homes, the ceiling height is around 2.4m, leaving very little room for a top light and modifier with a regular strobe. In fact, in the example above, I used the smallest soft box I could find, as anything larger would have hit the model. Alternatively, as you can see here, the LED panel is far thinner and far easier to use in small spaces like this.


The Setup

Now that I’ve spoken about just one of the benefits of LED panels like this in smaller spaces, let’s show you a quick example setup of how you could use a panel like this as a top light for a portrait.

As you can see from the BTS above, even with a low ceiling inside a standard room, the Nanlite Pavoslim LED panel I have here is so slim that I still have plenty of room above the model.


Camera Settings

  • Camera - Fujifilm GFX 50SII

  • Lens - Pentax 6x7 Takumar 105mm

  • Shutter Speed - 1/125th

  • Aperture - f2.4

  • ISO - 200

  • Kelvin - 4500K

  • Focal Length - 105mm (~92mm 35mm equivalent)


TL;DR/ADHD/Artist Setup Explanation

  • Set up backdrop behind model

  • Place LED panel above models and just high enough to be out of shot

  • Place large umbrella behind you and attach blue gel


Kit Used

  • Nanlite PavoSlim 120C

  • Nanlite FC-500C

  • Large Umbrealla

  • Cheap Window Blind


The Final Shots

Model: Alexandrashnx


Final Points to Remember

Pavo-VERY-Slim

I mentioned at the top that LED panels in general are far slimmer than a standard strobe and softbox combo, but most panels are still thicker than 10cm in my experience, which, although slim, is still pretty chunky when compared to the wafer-thin Nanlite Pavoslim 120C I’m using here.

In fact, the Pavoslim has three thicknesses: the fully extended softbox version, and it can also compress the softbox to the face of the panel, which, although still a super-soft light, doesn't quite offer as much light control as the extended version. Plus, if you absolutely need every mm of space you can get, the Pavoslim can go as thin as 18.6mm with the softbox removed!

In the example shots above, you can see the three thicknesses of the Nanlite Pavoslim 120C. With the soft box attached and fully extended, it’s around 15cm deep. With the soft box attached and compressed (this is done via velcro straps on either end), it’s around 6cm thick, and lastly, with no soft box attached, the bare panel is less than 2cm thick.

Of course, you need to include the attachment point for the panel if hanging from above, but even then, it can be laid flat (you can see it lying flat in the background of the far right image above), and even with that in place, the whole light is extremely low profile indeed.

Cheapest Backdrops for Tight Spaces

I’ve been using window blinds as backdrops for over 20 years, so many of you will have already heard me preach about how good they are for the price. Again, for this shoot, I dug out my deep-red window blind and used it. These roller blinds can be as cheap as £20 - £40, they roll up small, hang straight, are thick enough to block the light from behind, aren’t shiny so won’t give you ugly reflections, aren’t made of paper so can be spot cleaned if needed, and they aren’t even heavy and are easy to transport. Plus, they come in tons of colours! If you need a bunch of variety for headshot backgrounds, the roller blinds are a surprisingly good choice.


Products Used

Note: These are not affiliate links; I do not earn anything from you using these links, they are purely there for your convenience. These links take you directly to Nanlite’s website for further info.

Nanlite PavoSlim 120C

Website Link


Nanlite FC-500C

Website Link


Donate & Support

I've always wanted my photography education on here to be free, so although there is no paywall to any of my -Technique Tuesdays-, any and all support is greatly appreciated. ❤️

PLUS: Donate any amount and I’ll send you a link to the hi-res print version of my studio lighting book.

||

PLUS: Donate any amount and I’ll send you a link to the hi-res print version of my studio lighting book. || PLUS: Donate any amount and I’ll send you a link to the hi-res print version of my studio lighting book. ||


JHP Livestreams…

I livestream every other Tuesday night via YouTube and there I answer your questions, critique your shots, take community images into Photoshop to work on them and discuss all manner of lighting tips and techniques. I look forward to seeing you and your work there real soon. Jake Hicks Photography - YouTube


All of my more advanced lighting classes are now available online!

||

All of my more advanced lighting classes are now available online! || All of my more advanced lighting classes are now available online! ||

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Tuesday 02.24.26
Posted by Jake Hicks
 

Free Lightroom Preset Pack | Christmas 2025

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I've always wanted my photography education on here to be free, so although there is no paywall to any of my -Technique Tuesdays-, any and all support is greatly appreciated. ❤️

PLUS: Donate any amount and I’ll send you a link to the hi-res print version of my studio lighting book.

||

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If you found your way here from the Livestream, thanks so much for hanging out and please find your 2025 Christmas gift from me in the form of my free Lightroom Preset pack via the link below. Here’s to us all having a very creative 2026!


Christmas 2025 Lightroom Preset Pack

>>The Download Link will appear once you’ve clicked the [Submit] button below<<

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>>The Download Link will appear once you’ve clicked the [Submit] button below<< - >>The Download Link will appear once you’ve clicked the [Submit] button below<< -


Donate & Support

I've always wanted my photography education on here to be free, so although there is no paywall to any of my -Technique Tuesdays-, any and all support is greatly appreciated. ❤️

PLUS: Donate any amount and I’ll send you a link to the hi-res print version of my studio lighting book.

||

PLUS: Donate any amount and I’ll send you a link to the hi-res print version of my studio lighting book. || PLUS: Donate any amount and I’ll send you a link to the hi-res print version of my studio lighting book. ||



JHP Livestreams…

I livestream every other Tuesday night via YouTube and there I answer your questions, critique your shots, take community images into Photoshop to work on them and discuss all manner of lighting tips and techniques. I look forward to seeing you and your work there real soon. Jake Hicks Photography - YouTube


All of my more advanced lighting classes are now available online!

||

All of my more advanced lighting classes are now available online! || All of my more advanced lighting classes are now available online! ||

LEARN MORE ABOUT MY ONLINE WORKSHOPS

 
Tuesday 12.16.25
Posted by Jake Hicks
 

DIY Textured Painted Backdrop

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||

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I’m sure we’ve all used the white background of a studio before. Who hasn't? But there are times when we want a white background, but we don’t necessarily want it to look like a studio. Here I show you how I quickly (ish) and cheaply made a white, textured backdrop.

I’ll jump straight into this one as there’s nothing technical to cover before we start.

I was recently asked to do a shoot for a hair salon. They have shown me example ideas on a moodboard with a white background, but many of the examples were not shot in a photo studio. Turned out they preferred a more organic, textured backdrop over a stark, e-commerce-looking shot.

Pretty standard so far, and I’m starting to see a lot more of these requests crop up as people are being put off by the somewhat stark, clinical and often overly commercial-looking shots we can see online.

Ideally, we’d find a cool location that had a more rustic and organic backdrop, but as with many hair campaigns, you often have to shoot in the salon as the hairstylists need all their tools on hand to prep the hair.

So, with a location shoot off the table, the next best thing is to bring a textured background to the salon. This is where I set out to look at some alternatives.

Although I’m sure many of you are immediately thinking of a multitude of ways to add texture to a background, I did have one major issue to contend with: I had to bring the backdrop to the salon. So yes, although elements like polyfiller, plaster, joint compound, or any other soft putty-like substance that dries rock hard sound perfect… I can’t roll that up and through it in the back of the car.


The Textured Backdrop - Rollable Edition

So yes, sadly, as much as I wanted to throw putty at a wall and paint it white, I needed to find a far milder alternative that I knew I could actually roll up and move. Of course, the most obvious solution was paint, but even then, I was wary of thick paint cracking and falling apart when dry and rolled up.

That said, I thought I should be okay with thick masonry paint at least, so I opted for this one.

‘Textured Masonry Paint’ I’m sure I don’t need to remind you of this, but be sure to get the ‘brilliant white’ version. Be wary of getting any off-white paint for this, as the odd cream colour under harsh light will play havoc with any white balance you try to do.

My thinking was that the paint would be thick (it even had’ textured’ in the name - more on that later), thick enough to have some shape to it when painted and not just lie completely flat and clean.

If you’re going to be using paint on the backdrop, make sure it’s actually pure white paint and not eggshell, dove, magnolia, cloud etc etc!!


The Backdrop - Rollable Edition

Many long-time readers will know that I love to use window blinds as backgrounds, and I’ve done so for over 20 years. I’ve now assembled quite a collection of window blinds here at the home-studio! The reason I use window blinds is due to how easy they are to transport to a shoot if needed. Plus, they lie flat, hand flat, are durable to the point they can be cleaned, they don't bend or fold, and most kinks can be removed simply by hanging it up. Plus, the blackout blinds are actually pretty thick and are ideal for shining light on them as they aren't shiny like other backdrops can be.

So again, for this project, I picked up yet another window blind. I’ve bought so many now, Amazon must think I live in a greenhouse! I always try to get a ‘blackout blind’ and I try to get the ones with the most ‘drop’ as they call it. This just means the length of the blind when hung up.

The one I got here is 180cm wide with a 160cm drop. This is pretty much the bare minimum size you can make work for a studio portrait, and ideally, I’d like a 2-metre wide one with at least 2+ metres drop.

I’ve been using window blinds as photography backdrops for over 20 years! They’re perfect backdrops that can be easily rolled up and transported.


Don’t bother with these textured rollers - It doesn’t look good!

Creating the Texture Backdrop

This part isn’t rocket science, but I did discover a couple of elements along the way. Originally, I’d actually purchased a bunch of big paintbrushes and even very textured rollers to see what would give the best result. As it turned out, the roller, in conjunction with this thick texture paint, worked too well, and the resulting bubbled and pitted texture was actually too dramatic and even for the more randomised effect I was after.

Even the big paint brushes I had gotten didn't work for what I was after, as their bristles were still too fine and didn't leave any texture in the paint. So the roller was too much, and the paintbrushes weren't enough. Ironically, what did end working well was an old plastic broom I had lying around in the garage.

The plastic broom had very large, plastic and very separated bristles. This is what ultimately gave me the deep and textured look of sweeps of paint I was after.

Using a street-sweeping broom to paint the backdrop actually gave it the deep brushstroke texture I was after.


The Finished Textured Look

Like I mentioned, I used a big street-sweeping brush to get the final look I was after. The larger, thicker and more seared bristles on the broom allowed me to get very visible brushstrokes in the paint.

From here, it was just a matter of building up the paint and being very generous with it when I applied the coats. I wasn't too precious with how I applied it either and kept the brush moving in multiple directions to ensure as much visual texture on the surface as possible.

Ultimately, I only applied two coats of thick paint. I wanted to do more, but even at two coats, I was very wary of the paint becoming too thick and then cracking when I wanted to roll it up. In the end, I think I could have gotten away with at least one more coat, but the two I had got the job done.

I applied a couple of coats and kept the paint thick on both along with varying brushstrokes in the paint to keep the texture apparent.


A Quick Test

Before I rocked up on the day with the DIY background, I wanted to give it a quick test to see how it would look and how it would hold up under lighting. As always, you learn something new every time you pick up the camera, and one thing that stood out to me when shooting these tests was how important the aperture would be.

Click to enlarge - In the full screen version, you should be able to see the texture more clearly, but in some of these shots, the texture is far less pronounced.

I think many of us portrait shooters are guilty of going out and buying a beautiful f1.2 prime lens… and then never ever taking it off f1.2. It cost you a small fortune, why would you? But for hair campaigns, crisp eyes and hair totally out of focus are rarely a good look. The same thing was happening here in these tests. If the aperture was too shallow, the background texture was completely lost, especially when getting close for a headshot. But when shooting further back and opening up the aperture to f4 or f5.6, the background texture really started to pop.


Test Shots on the Day

In the end, I was extremely happy with the final shots and how the background looked in them. The texture was just enough to take away the clean and clinical look a simple white background might offer, but not so much texture as to be distracting.


Final Images

Click on any of the images below to fit them to your screen.


Complete Hair Shoot Breakdown

If you were curious about how this whole process and shoot was captured, including everything from moodboards to behind-the-scenes on the day, take a look at my complete photoshoot breakdown video on YouTube below.


Donate & Support

I've always wanted my photography education on here to be free, so although there is no paywall to any of my -Technique Tuesdays-, any and all support is greatly appreciated. ❤️

PLUS: Donate any amount and I’ll send you a link to the hi-res print version of my studio lighting book.

||

PLUS: Donate any amount and I’ll send you a link to the hi-res print version of my studio lighting book. || PLUS: Donate any amount and I’ll send you a link to the hi-res print version of my studio lighting book. ||


JHP Livestreams…

I livestream every other Tuesday night via YouTube and there I answer your questions, critique your shots, take community images into Photoshop to work on them and discuss all manner of lighting tips and techniques. I look forward to seeing you and your work there real soon. Jake Hicks Photography - YouTube


All of my more advanced lighting classes are now available online!

||

All of my more advanced lighting classes are now available online! || All of my more advanced lighting classes are now available online! ||

LEARN MORE ABOUT MY ONLINE WORKSHOPS

 
Tuesday 11.11.25
Posted by Jake Hicks
 
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