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Using Low Contrast Lens Filters in Portraits

Technique Tuesday Using Low Contrast Lens Filters in Portraits.jpg

As the name of the filter alludes to, these lens filters do indeed lower the overall contrast of a shot. To clarify what that means in relation to photography; these filters will reduce the darkness of the shadows by allowing light to bleed into them from surrounding highlights.

Click to enlarge: The images above show you exactly what a low contrast filter does. For context, this is a black piece of velvet in front of a spotlight.

Click to enlarge: The images above show you exactly what a low contrast filter does. For context, this is a black piece of velvet in front of a softbox.

From the example images above, you should get a very good idea of what the low contrast filters do. Both of these example images are taken with exactly the same camera settings and are displayed straight out of camera. So although they’re shot with the same settings, the image with the low contrast filter clearly has a certain subtle glow, or haze effect.

Now that we’ve established what they technically do, let’s look at how low contrast filters actually translate into practical uses.


Low Contrast Filters - Past to Present

Historically, lens filters were always far more popular than they are now. The obvious reason for this decline is thanks to the proliferation of post-production techniques and all the options and flexibility that working on images after they’ve been captured offers you.

Years ago, low contrast filters were often used to give skin a certain ‘glow’ and to also flatter some of the skins imperfections. Remember, this was in a time before ‘retouching’, anything that softened or hid those minor lumps and bumps in camera was extremely useful.

But, low contrast filters are seemingly making a comeback as the cameras and lenses being made today are simply ‘too sharp’ for some projects. For example cinema and T.V. still use lens filters a lot and the low contrast filters are often used on period pieces where the razor sharp images of modern cameras simply feels out of place in many historical dramas.


Low Contrast Filters in Action on the Screen

The Crown

Cinematographer Adriano Goldman spoke about his particular visual look for the hugely successful Netflix show ‘The Crown’.

“The show uses the Sony F55, Cooke Panchros and, often, Tiffen Glimmer Glass.”

-Adriano Goldman

Pay close attention to how bright those shadows are where the curtains meet the window. Now imagine how dark those shadows would be with no low contrast filter in place. They’d be extremely dark and we’d lose separation and depth with the subject.

Pay close attention to how bright those shadows are where the curtains meet the window. Now imagine how dark those shadows would be with no low contrast filter in place. They’d be extremely dark and we’d lose separation and depth with the subject.

Many shooters will often tell you how unbelievably sharp their lenses are, and ‘unbelievably’ sharp is the right verb here. Many lenses are indeed ‘too’ sharp and clear for some projects and Goldman uses the Tiffen lens filter for beautiful effect in the Crown series. For those unfamiliar with the filter, here’s how Tiffen describes what their Glimmer Glass does.

“Тhе multіfunсtіоnаl dіffuѕіоn/bеаutу Тіffеn 4х4 Glіmmеr Glаѕѕ 1 Fіltеr hаѕ thе аbіlіtу tо bоth ѕоftеn thе fіnе dеtаіlѕ іn аn іmаgе, аnd рrоduсе glоwіng hіghlіghtѕ. Рrоvіdіng а mіld rеduсtіоn іn соntrаѕt, іt сrеаtеѕ а mоrе еthеrеаl іmаgе.”

-Tiffen


Peaky Blinders

Another example of a period piece using low contrast filters ‘in-camera’ during shooting is the gangster epic show ‘Peaky Blinders’. Those familiar with the show will no doubt be aware that this is a polar opposite show to ‘The Crown’, but the atmosphere and depth a low contrast filter can add to visual storytelling is universal.

Director of photography Si Bell goes on to speak about the look of the show and what they were keen to achieve.

“A Tiffen 1/4 black satin filter was deployed most of the time with NDs and rotating polarisers just to take the shine and reflections off certain things.”

-Si Bell

It’s worth bearing in mind that many of these dramas are set in areas with multiple points of light. Many of Peaky Blinders scenes are set in bar scenes and very dark rooms with extremely bright spots of light around them and occasionally even bare …

It’s worth bearing in mind that many of these dramas are set in areas with multiple points of light. Many of Peaky Blinders scenes are set in bar scenes and very dark rooms with extremely bright spots of light around them and occasionally even bare candle light in shot. Care needs be taken to give those lights a warm glow without them being too overpowering. Look at the spot of light behind the head here. See how it appears to have a warm glow and isn’t burning out to pure white?

Bell mentions the use of a Tiffen ‘Black Satin Filter’. Not familiar with that filter? Here’s what Tiffen says it does.

“Тhе Вlасk Ѕаtіn fіltеrѕ gеntlу соntrоlѕ hіghlіghtѕ, rеduсеѕ соntrаѕt аnd аddѕ а grіttіеr, wаrmеr lооk thаn rеgulаr Ѕаtіnѕ, whіlе ѕuррrеѕѕіng fасіаl blеmіѕhеѕ аnd wrіnklеѕ.”

-Tiffen

 

There are many, many more example of this in modern television and if you were so inclined, you could simply Google ‘insert TV show name + camera setup’ and you’d be astounded to see how many shows actually use some form of low contrast filter on their lenses.

I had a hunch that the Crown and Peaky Blinders used them, Googled it and boom, they did. Trust me, the list of modern cinematographers and directors of photography using these filters on their lenses is huge. In fact, it’s possibly more common than ever before and that is in part due to the rise of incredibly sharp digital camera and lens technology.

It’s worth nothing here that many of these shows will often introduce artificial atmospheres to their sets like smoke and haze, and although they produce a very similar look to the blacks as the low contrast filters, the haze and smoke is far harder to control and it doens’t help the highlights.

Many of these media productions want huge files for 8k televisions and theatre screens, but many cinematographers in the early 2000’s were hesitant to switch away from film as the digital options lacked a certain character and richness. These low contrast lens filters, along with a host of other ‘in-camera’ filters can take an edge off a heavily digital look that is often far more appealing to audiences. To further cement this point, I was also reliably informed that Tom Cruise refused to be shot on the more modern digital cameras as they were too unflattering.


Low Contrast Filters in Photography

So now that I’ve shared a couple of examples of how low contrast filters are being used in pop-culture, you should be a little more receptive to the idea of actually using an in-camera technique that involves lens filters yourself. If shows like ‘The Crown’ or ‘Peaky Blinders’, that seemingly have an infinite budget are using lens techniques over post-pro hacks, maybe there’s something to them.

Like I mentioned at the top, photographers have been using low contrast filters forever and even before cinema was, but their popularity has waned, especially in portraits. Of course there’s still a market for them and any self-respecting landscape shooters would never leave home without one.

Imagine you’re a landscape shooter and you’ve set up your shot ready for that perfect sunset. The sun dips down low and now everything is heavily silhouetted with that big hot-light in the sky behind that gnarly old tree you wanted to photograph. Sadly you can’t just whip out a spare fill light to pop some light in that deep shadow, so you can either go for the silhouette shot, or you can give your raw file some extra detail in the shadows by popping a low-contrast filter on the lens. The filter will scatter just enough light into the shadows thereby giving you a little extra detail in those shadows where you previously had none.

Seems an obvious solution, but this basic principle is sorely overlooked by portrait shooters. I so often see some heavily backlit shot where the highlights are so horrendously blown out as the photographer has increased the exposure to see detail in the foreground shadows. But as we also previously discussed, this is actually a modern problem.


Is your lens too good?

This is clearly subjective, but hear me out. Years ago lenses were good, but they weren’t quite as crystal clear as they are today. As a result, some older or even vintage lenses have a sort of low-contrast filter built into them. Their glass naturally scatters light that enters them and we see some of the tell-tale signs of halos and glowing edges associated with some of the modern low-contrast filter shots.

Click to enlarge: There is NO low contrast filter being used in either of these shots, but you can clearly see that an older Nikon lens from the 70’s had a certain ‘glow’ to it. Fast forward 20 years and we’ve all but eradicated all trace of that glow today.

You should be able to see what I mean from the shots above. A modern lens provides a very clean and clear edge between light and dark and the shadows are all but jet black throughout the shot. For many of us, that’s what we want, but there’s still a place for that older lens look too. To me it feels a little more organic and truth be told, it actually feels a little more ‘real’.

Technically Perfect, But Not Realistic

Most lens technology is now so good that it actually far surpasses our own eye quality. When I look at the sun or a bright light, there is a glow around it… do I need to upgrade to the pro version?! The older lenses and the more modern low-contrast filter ‘look’ actually feels more reminiscent to us as this is how we would visually see the world in real life! This is one of the key reasons we see it so much in cinema and T.V.


Examples of Low Contrast Filters in Action

Let’s be honest, I’ve been pretty defensive up until this point. If you’ve read this far then you’ll undoubtedly be surprised that I’ve firstly not tried to sell you anything yet, but secondly, I’ve yet to show you any results of low-contrast filters in action with portraits. The reason for this is that the vast majority of photographers simply write off lens filters as ‘Photoshop for old people’.

Yes there are lens filters that can be replaced by Photoshop actions and filters if you want, but I honestly believe there is no short-cut or Photoshop hack for what low-contrast filters do.

“Can’t I just reduce the contrast in Photoshop though?”

No. The low contrast filter is doing far more than simply ‘lowering the contrast’. With a lens filter like this, it’s actually scattering the light as it enters the lens and as a result you’ll have far more detail to work with in supremely contrasty images.

“Sounds good. I’ll use it for every shot!”

No. Please do not use it for every shot, or even most of your shots for that matter. The low contrast filter has a very specific use and that’s often for heavily backlit images where the light, or multiple lights is set against far darker subjects like silhouettes or where we have a lot of strong directional light just out of shot pointed towards to the camera.


Let’s look at some examples.

Example 1 - Strobe just out of shot pointed at camera.

Click to enlarge: This image sees me using a LEE Filters Low Contrast Filter No. 1

Click to enlarge: This image has no low contrast filter being used.

This image has no bare bulb or direct highlight in shot, but it does have a blue light just out of shot to camera right pointed over the subjects shoulder, plus it had a red bulb just out of shot in that lampshade.

Both of these shots were processed in the same way, but it should be clear to see the very significant difference between the two shots. In the image with the low contrast filter we have more detail in the shadows and although we’ve chosen to not pull out too much of that detail (look at the fabric on the jacket lapel for example), it’s there.

Also, look again at the highlights. At the very top of frame where the light is brightest in the image with the no low contrast filter, the lamp with a red bulb has lost nearly all of its colour in the brightest areas. Compare that to the shot with the filter and you see not only more detail, but a lot more colour too.

 

Example 2 - Heavily back-lit by natural light.

Click to enlarge: This image sees me using a 3/4 power Low Contrast LEE Filter on the lens.

Here we have a mix of strobe and natural light. It’s worth noting that the majority of this set is lit by that very bright natural light window to camera right. I’d also like you to consider how much light is appearing in the shadows of this room. Look at the corners and the area around the window. I have no light pointed at that due to absurdly limited space in this room, so instead I opted to use a low contrast filter on the lens to ‘simulate’ the effect of light being in the dark areas.

…and because I know there’s already a millennial in comments typing about how they’re ‘entitled’ to see the raw file! Here’s a couple of test shots below where I experimented with the low contrast filter on and off the lens.

Click to enlarge: The left image shows the raw, straight out of camera file with NO low contrast filter. On the right we have the raw, straight out of camera shot with the LEE Low contrast filter on the lens.

Again, it should be extremely clear to see the difference between these shots and just how much that low contrast filter is doing to the shadows in the image. You have to remember that this filter is giving you options. If you want to pump the contrast up a little later on in post then you can do. But me not using a low contrast filter here would have been detrimental to the shadow detail in the final shot.

 

Example 3 - Strong strobe backlight behind subject.

Click to enlarge: This image has a backlight as the entire background and here I’m using a LEE Low Contrast Filter No.1

Click to enlarge: This image has a backlight as the entire background and here I’m using a LEE Low Contrast Filter No.1

This particular setup was built around the fact that I knew I wanted to use a low contrast filter on my lens. Behind the subject we have a large softbox that covers the entirety of the background. This understandably kicks a lot of light directly into the camera and I knew that if I used a low contrast filter on the lens here, it would create this slightly hazy effect that nicely mimicked the hazy plant effect we had behind her.

If you’re interested in learning more about this particular setup in detail, it’s fully explaining here Imitating Hazy Backgrounds with Diffusion Gels

Are you curious to see what the low contrast filter is actually doing? Take a look at the side by side below, with and without the filter.

Click to enlarge: On the left you have a shot with the low contrast filter over the lens. On the right you have the shot with nothing in front of the lens. Both of these shots are raws, straight out of camera with zero adjustments.

You get the idea now?

With these three examples, you should now have a pretty strong idea of exactly what these low contrast filters do. Bottom line; they aren’t for everyday use. In fact these filters will not even work in every situation. For example, if you have zero light coming straight into the lens, or you have no bright highlights in shot, you could have the low contrast filter on the lens and not even know it. This is a very situational filter but it can have such a huge impact on your shots if you use it correctly.


The Low Contrast Filter I Use

I personally use a pack of Low Contrast filters from LEE Filters. The pack comes in a range of strengths from a 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and 1. The number 1 offering the most dramatic effect. Truth be told, I’ve not used any of the other brand low contrast filters out there to compare and as you probably noticed from the start of the article when we looked at examples in TV shows, there’s a ton of them by other brands that seemingly do the same thing.

The LEE ones I have work for what I need, but if you want to dig into the low contrast filter options further, you’ll be looking at variations in how they deal with highlights, halos, glow, sharpness, diffusion and more. Trust me, the variances in low contrast filters is a full time job in its own right. For more details on the ones I use, take a look on LEE’s site here LEE Low Contrast Filters

Click to enlarge: I personally use the LEE Filters Low Contrast filter set. This includes filters of varying powers including 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and 1.

Click to enlarge

Click to enlarge

I personally just hold mine in front of the lens with my hands for the shots that I need them for, but you can get a holder that will attach to any size lens you have. I personally prefer this method over the circular screw on ones as I can switch lenses during a shoot without having to buy lens filters for each of them.

Click to enlarge: You can simply hold the filters in front of your lens with your free hand, or place them in a proper filter holder.


Frequently Asked Questions

Is it blurry?

I can hear you now,

“But do low contrast filters blur or soften my shot?”

The reason I know you have that question, is because I asked it too. Technically I guess yes, anything in front of your lens will potentially ‘soften’ your shot. I’ll be totally honest though, I can’t see it. Granted, these slightly more expensive ones from LEE are of exceptional quality and you get what you pay for, but from the tests I’ve done, these filters do not ‘blur’ the shot to reduce contrast. Take a look at the zoomed in shot below to make your own judgments though.

Click to enlarge: Here we have a very zoomed in crop of an image that had the low contrast filter in use. The eye looks pretty sharp to me.

I showed you this shot earlier in the article and this was one of the test images I took with the low contrast filter in place. You’ll notice that everything is still very much pin-sharp. Also note that we have that very bunched up histogram in the top right of frame. This is showing us that all the data is very much in the middle and this is what we’d expect to see from an image with less contrast.

 

Low Contrast or Diffusion?

Long time followers of my work will no doubt know that I also regularly use another lens filter called a ‘diffusion filter’ aka ‘soft filter’. The low contrast filter is very different and you should not expect to simply use a diffusion filter in its place. Think of a diffusion filter causing a more focused area of flare. A low contrast filter will evenly spread the light over the entire scene compared to the more focused flare of the diffusion filter.

Click to enlarge: Here we have there shots. One with no filter, one with the low contrast filter and one with the diffusion filter.

I’d be wary of using your diffusion filter as replacement for the low contrast filter. You can see from the images above that the diffusion filter is far more aggressive. It has a brighter centre point next to the highlight and it drops off to shadow far quicker. Don’t get me wrong, diffusion filters have their place, but consider them for more of a ‘dreamy’ look where as the low contrast will provide more of an ‘atmospheric’ look.


Closing Comments

The short version here is that I recommend everyone has a low contrast filter if you can afford one. This goes doubly to the mirrorless users who have systems with their painfully sharp files. Yes, you may love the razor sharp images where you can see the DNA in the pores of your subjects, but consider what your subjects and clients may also like to see as well. I personally think that although sharp images are fine, there are times where many creatives are trying to put a little more ‘soul’ and realism back into their shots.

For example, I could go into more detail on how the video games industry spends millions each year on developing purely artificial in-game lenses with bokeh, halos, fringing and diffusion in an attempt to make us feel more ‘immersed’ in a synthesised world. That entire industry strives to make their imagery look less artificial and I find it odd that as one art form struggles to trick us into being immersed with visual artefacts, another simultaneously strives to make things feel hyper-real by removing all trace of them.

The video games industry spends millions to make games more realistic. One common tool they employ to do this is by replicating visual artefacts in their games that we’re more familiar with seeing in real life (or that films have taught us are in ‘r…

The video games industry spends millions to make games more realistic. One common tool they employ to do this is by replicating visual artefacts in their games that we’re more familiar with seeing in real life (or that films have taught us are in ‘real life’). We’ll skip the irony of adding bokeh to first person shooters, but let’s assume we’re all wearing dirty glasses on the battlefield. -From left to right ‘Killzone’, ‘Black Ops 4’, ‘Battlefield 4’.

Older readers may also recall the era when ‘Industrial Light and Magic’ specifically strived to create these ‘visual-effects’ in films like ‘Star Wars’ and ‘Close Encounters of the Third Kind.’ These are of course ‘styles’ and although JJ Abrams may have famously overdone the infamous ‘lens flare’ a little in his more modern work, the fact still remains that there’s huge scope to get away from this purely crystal-clean and perfect look the entire time.

‘Close Encounters of the Third Kind’ released in 1978 showcasing some very revolutionary lens flare effects at the time.

‘Close Encounters of the Third Kind’ released in 1978 showcasing some very revolutionary lens flare effects at the time.

Fast forward 30 years and JJ Abrams get’s a little overzealous in his famously heavy-handed lens flare effects in 2009’s ‘Star Trek’.

Fast forward 30 years and JJ Abrams get’s a little overzealous in his famously heavy-handed lens flare effects in 2009’s ‘Star Trek’.

No, video games and movies are not photography, but it’s always advisable to look outside of our own industry to see how others deal with similar aesthetics and what trends are emerging.

A New Generation

It’s also worth noting that we’re starting to see the first generation of photographers that are coming of age who have NEVER used a film camera before or have even seen one! Feel old yet?!

As with everything else, fashion and styles are often cyclical to new generations that come along behind us. I guarantee young people will fall on these old film ‘effects’ and claim them as new and original (which they are to them). I’m calling it here and now, but don’t be at all surprised if you see a resurgence in these ‘in-camera’ looks with photography as we see young photographers emulating looks they see in gaming and cinema.

Lens filters like low contrast filters are a tool and unlike JJ, we should use them sparingly. But in the right situation, these low contrast filters can do what no Photoshop filter can do and we need to have them ready to hand when the situation presents itself.


THANK YOU

Thank you as always for checking out my article and spending a little bit of your day with me here. I know this was a monster article, so if you made it all the way to the end, you have my respect.

If you have any questions about this one, then feel free to let me know in the comments below. I can’t promise to have all the answers, but I’ll certainly do my best to answer what I can. Thanks again for stopping by.


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Tuesday 01.07.20
Posted by Jake Hicks
Comments: 2
 

Top 5 Jake Hicks Photography Articles of 2019

Technique Tuesday Top 5 Jake Hicks Photography Articles of 2019.jpg

With 2020 less than a fistful of hours away, let’s look back over the past 365 sleeps to see what was popular in the JHP Archives.

Number 1

Lighting Setup: The Corona

Even though this article in only weeks old, it quickly stormed to the number 1 spot. My new ‘Chroma’ lighting setup has certainly proved popular with many, and for good reason. This lighting technique shows you that you can produce engaging and dynamic lighting on a subject with minimal effort, space and equipment… No wonder this article saw such success.

Lighting Setup: The Corona

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Number 2

Emulating Dappled Light in the Studio

Ever seen some beautiful light pouring through tree branches on a warm summers day and thought, ‘I wish I could recreate that in the studio’. Hard sunlight is tricky at best to recreate in the studio, but couple that with some beautiful dappled shadows and it becomes nearly impossible. Thankfully, I finally found a solution and it’s actually not to tricky to do, it just uses a clever little hack to make to it work. Take a look at this dappled lighting in the studio setup and see what put this article in this years number 2 spot.

Emulating Dappled Light in the Studio

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Number 3

Optical Snoot Review

As luck would have it, number 3 here follows on nicely from the previous article. As I mentioned above, creating very hard, directional light in the studio can be tricky. Sure there are lighting modifiers that can make it happen, but they tend to be a little pricey. Our third most popular article of 2019 goes over and reviews an alternative, the optical snoot. So if you’re after a way to create some very hard light in the studio that wont cost more than a family holiday to the riviera, check this out.

Optical Snoot Review

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Number 4

Imitating Hazy Backgrounds with Diffusion Gels

Coming in at number 4 is a hefty article on how to imitate a foggy, hazy background behind your subject. Ever wanted to fire up the smoke machine but space and fire alarms have prevented you from pulling the trigger? Maybe you already have a smoke machine and love using it, but would really like to only limit the smoke effect behind the subject and not all over the front of them. This article on how to imitate hazy backgrounds has you covered. Side note: This was actually one of my favourite discoveries in the studio for 2019. I can’t wait to use it again sometime soon.

Imitating Hazy Backgrounds with Diffusion Gels

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Number 5

DIY Mottled Backdrop

Last but certainly not least, here’s a clever hack to make those fancy mottled backdrops for next to nothing. Mottled backgrounds are making a comeback and thanks to big budget editorials in the likes of Vogue and Harpers Bazaar, those terrifyingly cheesy cloudy backdrops from your school photo, can actually look good. So although the best of these unique canvas backgrounds can cost many hundreds of dollars to buy, we can also make a version that is pretty effective for less than $20! Intrigued? Check the article to learn more.

DIY Mottled Backdrop

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So there you have it, the top 5 articles from the Jake Hicks Photography archives of 2019. I hope you all found something useful in there and I hope you all learned a tip or two. Big thanks to all of you who stuck around during 2019 to check these out as they were published and if you missed any of them at the time, I hope this was handy refresher of the best of the best.

 

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Tuesday 12.31.19
Posted by Jake Hicks
Comments: 3
 

Creating Separation Between Model and Background in Photoshop

Technique Tuesday Creating Separation Between Model and Background in Photoshop.jpg

Every Monday I ask my FB Page community to participate in my -Share-a-Shoot- post whereupon they share a recent shot they’ve taken in exchange for some feedback from myself. I’ve been doing this every week for what feels like years now, and each and every week I am often mentioning the same things in my responses. Often it’s the subject being lit from below, badly placed hair lights, awkward posing and so on. But the one area that I probably talk about the most is ensuring you have a clear separation between subject and background.

Even in extreme cases where you’re photographing black on black, you still have to ensure you show separation between subject and foreground.

Having a clearly defined subject set apart from a background is key to making a pleasing image.

Our eyes are always seeking to understand the world via shape and form, so if our subject is blending into their surroundings in a confusing way, this is not only quite often unflattering, but it also makes for a visually confusing image.

This subject-to-background separation is nearly always present in daylight photos thanks to the abundance of easy to use light, but when we light a subject with studio strobes, we often forget to light our backgrounds properly. The out of focus area behind our subjects needs a little light as well if we are to avoid that jet-black void behind them. This lack of separation or blending between subject and background is especially noticeable on shots that contain dark styling against a dark background so even more attention to that separation is required here.

Thankfully though, even if we do forget or we simply run out of lights to light our background as well as our subject, we can cheat the effect a little in post-production and that’s what I’m going to cover here.


Step 1 - Cut that out

Screenshot 2019-12-03 at 15.51.23 copy.jpg

It’s up to you how you do this and there are many ways to select a subject. I personally use the Magic Wand Tool as well as the Quick Selection Tool.

 

Spend the time to cut the subject out properly as rushing this or cutting corners here will ruin the effect extremely quickly. Once I’ve got my basic selection of the subject then I often pop into the ‘Refine Edge…’ menu to make any minor adjustments to the styling or hair. This menu can be found in a variety of places dependant on your version of Photoshop but my preferred version of Refine Edge is found at the top of the screen when you have a selection tool active.

Note: I use an older version of Photoshop (even though I have access to the newest version via CC) mainly because of the power of this refine edge menu. Subsequent versions were a major step backwards in my opinion… but that’s a topic for another day.


Step 2 - Using our Mask

The hard part is now done. With our mask still active, create a new layer: Layer -> New Layer … (Shift+Command+N).

With the new layer simply create a Mask on it with the selection you’ve made. Layer -> Layer Mask.. -> Reveal Selection … (Or simply click the ‘Add Layer Mask’ button at the bottom of the layers palette.

If done correctly, your selection should disappear and your new blank layer should not have a black silhouette of your subject in the mask next to it.


Step 3 - Adding a base coat

Screenshot 2019-12-03 at 16.29.56.png

Even though we may have an even background already, I like to add a base coat to this layer so that we don’t highlight any marks back there when we lighten it up later on.

First select the Gradient tool. This can be found in the tools palette or simply hit the G key.

With the base layer selected, hit the gradient palette at the top of the screen so that the Gradient Editor opens up. Now make a gradient by selecting one point at the top of your background and one at the bottom of your background. Mine here is almost identical from top to bottom, but yours might not be. Once you’ve done that hit ok.

With our new gradient we can now paint it across our new layer. Select the new layer, make sure you have the Linear Gradient selected at the top, then simply click and drag a new gradient from the top to bottom of your empty layer.


Step 4 - Keep it real!

At present, we have a pure pixel gradient that will likely have some amount of colour banding within it. We do not want that anywhere near our shot and although it might not be very visible now, it will be very noticeable once we lighten it later.

First we need to add some noise to eliminate that banding. With the new layer selected, go to Filter -> Noise -> Add Noise…

Once in here, select a noise amount of around 2-5 dependant on your shot.

Next we need to soften that noise as it’s looking too digital at the moment.

With the new layer selected, go to Filter -> Blur -> Gaussian Blur…

Once in the Gaussian Blur menu, select a low blur that will just take the sharp edges off of the noise.

Usually an amount of 1 - 2 is enough.

Lastly, I often choose to knock back the background a little to bed it into the original background. I will lower the opacity to around 50 -70% to help achieve this.


Step 5 - Lighten up

Next we need to brighten up that background so as to give us that separation we’re after. With your mask layer selected, add a curves adjustment layer. Layer -> New Adjustment Layer -> Curves… Or simply hit the little Curves icon on the Adjustments Palette.

With our new curves layer selected, simply double click it and then drag a point up from the centre of the curve to lighten up the whole image.

Clearly this is not the look we’re after and we need to isolate the effect to the background only.

With the Curves layer selected, go to Layer -> Create Clipping Mask (Option+Command+G). If done correctly, you should now see an arrow pointing down from your curves layer to the mask layer.


Step 6 - Vignette it

We are nearly there and now that we have a brighter background, we just need to make it look a little more natural and less dominating over the subject.

With your curves layer selected, create another mask for it. Go to Layer -> Layer Mask -> Reveal All.

With our new mask selected, we are going to add a vignette. To do this, simply select the Gradient Tool (G) again. Make sure you have the ‘Radial Gradient’ checked in the top left, select a white-to-black gradient and then simply click and drag a large gradient from the centre of your shot.

If all of this is done correctly, your curves layer mask should now have a little vignette in the thumbnail. You can now reduce the opacity of this to your tastes, but otherwise you’re done.


Final Before & After

Before

After


Closing Comments

This is one of those techniques that is far from flashy or dramatic, but more about adding a subtle yet effective result. In fact, post-production is often about adding many, many subtle effects that all add up to a big impact and this technique is a good example of this.

Final tips

Masking: Take your time on the mask. Failing to do so, will result in you not being able to lighten the background as much as you may like. If you’ve rushed the portion around the hair for example, you may end up with an odd looking halo effect which will be distracting.

Keep it subtle: This is probably the most important factor out of everything. We are not adding this glow behind the subject to emulate a light back there. Remember, we are ONLY adding this to add separation between subject and background. When people view the image for the first time, they should NOT notice you’ve added this effect.


Lastly…

If you are interested in learning more about my creative process in post-pro, why not join us on December 14th for an entire day of post production. To learn more about what topics in Lightroom and Photoshop I’ll be covering, check out the link Jake Hicks Photography - Post-Pro Workshop

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THANK YOU

Thank you as always for checking out my article and spending a little bit of your day with me here. If you have any questions about this one, then feel free to let me know in the comments below. I can’t promise to have all the answers, but I’ll certainly do my best to answer what I can. Thanks again for stopping by.


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More Free Tips & Techniques

If you’re after more tips and tricks on studio lighting then don’t forget to check out my monthly newsletter and my free 10 page pdf on studio lighting techniques. If you’re interested then follow the link below and download it immediately.

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Once a month I’ll send you a newsletter of at least four photo related tips and tricks (one for each week I post them on here if you miss them) plus I’ll also keep you apprised of my new workshop dates as well.

Sign up now and you’ll get yourself a FREE 10 PAGE PDF of my all time ‘Top 10 Photography Tips and Techniques’!

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Tuesday 12.03.19
Posted by Jake Hicks
 

Lighting Setup: The Corona

Technique Tuesday Lighting Setup- The Corona .jpg

I’m just gonna come clean here and say that I just made up the name ‘corona’ for this lighting setup. In fact the word corona is a commonly used term with solar eclipses. During an eclipse, we can often see the moon silhouetted against a ring of light and the word corona is often used to describe that halo of light we see around the moon.

As we explain this lighting, my reasoning for calling this setup ‘corona’, should start to make a bit more sense because we are actually trying to achieve a similar lighting eclipse look by adding a ring of light around our subject.

 

Humble Beginnings

Confused? I promise you wont be, in fact this setup is actually a scaled up version of a simple still life setup I was playing with over 20 years ago. The basic premise involves a large light source behind the subject, but instead of a pure white light behind them, we actually introduce a large flag (black card) behind them. This flag is specifically made slightly smaller than the light source it is covering so that when it’s placed between the subject and light source, a small amount of light is allowed to creep around it thus just lighting the edges of the object.

Here are my Ilford award winning images from back in 1998 using the simple lighting technique to light the edges of these cans.

Here are my Ilford award winning images from back in 1998 using the simple lighting technique to light the edges of these cans.

But wait, the setup gets even easier than that! I often have to shoot some product shots to go with an article or interview etc. Instead of me going into the studio and setting all of the lights up, I’ve often just turned the TV on and put a black piece of card behind my object like you can see below. I choose a white image on the TV and then the television itself becomes my light source as the white light creeps around the black card to perfectly light the edges of my product.

Here you can see I have my product in front of my TV with a black card between them. A simple setup, but a very effective result.

Here you can see I have my product in front of my TV with a black card between them. A simple setup, but a very effective result.

 

But is it scalable?

No, I’m not referencing your bank manager questioning your new business loan, I am in fact talking about scaling up this lighting setup.

One issue we have with this setup is the fact that the light behind the object needs to be considerably larger than it is. This is fine when we’re lighting a lens or wine bottle, but when the object is now a person, we struggle to find a light source large enough to cover it.

Of course one option here is to find a giant window to stand in front of…. if you have that, then you’re done. For those of us not living in Georgian townhouses with floor to ceiling windows, we need to find another option. And let’s not forget that we also need a giant black flag to put behind our subject too. Thankfully that’s pretty easy so let’s start there.

 

No idea what a ‘crab clamp’ is? Click on the image above to learn more.

Giant Black Flag

If you’ve been following my tips and techniques for any period of time then I know you know what I’m about to say next. That’s right, it’s time to get out your big sheets of black velvet!

I’m always preaching about how vital these large sheets of black velvet are and once again they will be vital to the success of this shot. If you’re not familiar, I use these large sheets of black velvet all the time as flags and they are especially useful on location when you don’t have access to large studio polyboards to block and manage the light.

I like to carry at least two sheets of 1m x 2m black velvet with me and if I need to set them up, I simply attach a crossbar to the top of a light stand via a ‘crab clamp’, then clip the back velvet to that to create a large wall of darkness to block any unwanted light bounce.

If you’re shooting on location then these large sheets of black velvet are vital to block any unwanted light on set.

If you’re shooting on location then these large sheets of black velvet are vital to block any unwanted light on set.

 

Giant Light…

Perfect. We have our giant black flag, now we just need a giant light source. This is probably where you think you can’t continue, right? Sure you can pick up a sheet of black velvet for a few quid, but a giant light?! Probably a little out of your budget, right? Well thankfully that’s where you’re wrong, because if we’re clever with our light, we don’t actually need a huge light at all. …but you will need a couple of white walls.

This next step is actually a bit tricky to explain with text alone, so now let’s look at the lighting setup in situ and hopefully that will do a better job explaining how this is going to work.

Screenshot 2019-11-15 at 17.49.19 copy.jpg

In the image above we have our large sheet of black velvet behind our subject (shown here as a black board). Behind that we have a strobe with an open reflector dish firing away from the velvet and into a white wall. The resulting light from this is bouncing around and going everywhere, in fact it’s actually starting to creep around the edges of our black velvet and falling onto the model. Now you should start to see how this setup is starting to work.

 

Adding Some Colour

But now let’s add our coloured front light. Take a look at the diagram below to see where everything is placed.

Screenshot 2019-11-15 at 17.54.07 copy.jpg

In the above shot you’ll see that I’ve just added a large soft box to the set and that’s positioned behind me and shining straight onto the model. This large softbox is also equipped with a blue gel, but don’t panic you don’t need a giant gel to do that, you simply need to open the softbox up and place the gel over the flash tube.

Gelling a large softbox is easier than you might think. No, you don’t have patchwork small gels to the front of it, nor do you have to buy giant rolls of gels. Simply open up your softbox and place your over the flash tube. Note: Be wary of your mod…

Gelling a large softbox is easier than you might think. No, you don’t have patchwork small gels to the front of it, nor do you have to buy giant rolls of gels. Simply open up your softbox and place your over the flash tube. Note: Be wary of your modelling bulb getting too hot. Either remove it, or turn it off.

 

What Should it Look Like?

As you might have guessed, this is not your regular ‘10:01 YouTube lighting setup’! This setup is a little unorthodox in its approach as we’ll be throwing a lot of light around a room to get this to work. On top of that, we’re also shining colour directly onto our subject and the only white light in the shot is really only hitting the edges of our subject.

So how do we set this up? What ‘should’ it look like? Below I’m going to share a couple of raw images from the setting up process as I turned one of the two lights on at a time and took a shot to get an idea of what’s actually going on.

In this image we can see what the shot looks like with just the white light behind the model on.

In this image we can see what the shot looks like with just the white light behind the model on.

In this shot we’ve turned off the back light and no we just have the blue front light on instead.

In this shot we’ve turned off the back light and no we just have the blue front light on instead.

In the above images you should start to see how the shot is coming together. In the image of the white light on only, you should see how the edges are brighter, yet the front of the subject is far darker. It is in these darker shadow areas that we can add a coloured gel.

In the image of the blue light only, you should now see that the light falls off so as to make the edges of the subject fairly dark. With both of these lights combined you start to get the both the colour on the front, yet the edges have a subtle light glow to them. When you’re setting this up, I recommend turning on each of these lights individually and try to get a similar look to mine from each of them.

 

Final Results

With our setup in place and the lights correctly adjusted, here’s what some of the resulting images looked like.

JakeHicksPhotography_A_GS (2 of 5).jpg

Clicking on any of the above shots will enlarge them

 

So no questions then?

I’m pretty sure that if I listen carefully, I can hear you screaming, ‘BUT HOW DID YOU GET FROM THAT TO THAT?!’

This is the point at which I remind you that you’re following the work of a photographer (AKA an artist). A photographer that has very little regards for the ‘rules’ of image making. I mention this as I know many will want to know exactly what I did to get to these results I’ve shown above, but be warned, I took certain liberties when taking these shots as well as when I processed them.

First off, I deliberately underexposed these images at point of capture. The main reason for that was due to the edge light. It’s deceptively bright at the edges and even though I underexposed them, I’m still losing detail in the fur on the edges. Next, I wanted to lean into one special property that I’ve not yet discussed; the styling.

 
Fluorescent colours have a will of their own and no matter what colour you actually shine onto them, they pretty much ignore it and maintain their original colour.

Fluorescent colours have a will of their own and no matter what colour you actually shine onto them, they pretty much ignore it and maintain their original colour.

Consider your Styling

In these images, styling is minimal, but what we do have is still very important. I mentioned my thought process with the fur and my concerns with not clipping the highlights on the fur, but we also have this lingerie to consider. The outfit is made from fluorescent fabric and fluorescent fabric has some very unique properties we need to be mindful of, especially with regards to colour lighting.

Fluorescence

Fluorescent fabric bounces light in a very unique way, in fact many of us immediately know when something is ‘fluorescent’, but what are its properties that we are immediately recognising? Think back to any fluorescent product and consider for example, what’s different about a piece of fluorescent green paper compared to normal green paper? Well the fluorescent green one appears just brighter right? Same with orange, pink or yellow and so on. There are very scientific reasons for this, including how much heat energy they’re bouncing and why that’s happening etc. etc. But for now, I’ll just say that fluorescents bounce back a huge amount of light and that light is incredibly consistent resulting in it not having many shadow areas and more importantly, it does an extremely good job of maintaining its own colour, regardless of what colour is actually being shone onto it. This is why fluorescent objects appear so bright to us, they simply bounce huge amounts of light and they do so whilst maintaining their colour. Think of a hi-vis jacket, no mater what colour light we shine onto, it alway returns that brilliant white light.

So back to the image. Here I am shining blue light onto the orange fluorescent fabric, but it doesn’t care. The models skin is now blue, but the fluorescent fabric carries on just being orange. As a result, this fabric appears to almost leap off of the the page in contrast, especially when we chose to shine darker coloured lights like blue onto them. It’s with this knowledge that we can now start to manipulate a shot with a little more intent.

 

Post-Production

This article has gone on long enough, so I wont bore you further with the post-pro process, but I will touch on a few key decisions I made. Firstly, I mentioned that I wanted to lean into the fluorescent colour look, so in post I decided to push the whole image to that pinky, orange colour. I actually did this by adding a lot of magenta to the ‘tint’ via the white balance. Remember, that the only white light in this shot is the edge lights. By me pushing the tint in this way, the image now looks like it was shot with pink edge lights, yet our highlights are still white.

JakeHicksPhotography (1 of 2) set raw lr ps.jpg

In the images above you can see the process I went through from raw, to Lightroom and finally Photoshop. From this you should firstly see just how strong that fluorescent colour is in the raw, especially when you consider how there is really only blue light lighting it. Secondly you can see just much I’ve pushed the white balance so as to really accentuate that orange outfit.

Yes, there is a lot that has gone here, but the basic principle is simple skin retouching and colour toning. That’s it. It looks like a big change, but in reality that’s all that’s happened here. Yes I could have taken the time to go in to my camera and create a custom white balance that pushed the magenta tint, but I knew I was shooting in raw and I was content to make that change later on.

 

Closing Comments

This is a VERY simple setup.

It’s only two lights for a start. Plus it doesn’t require any expensive or fancy modifiers. The beauty of this setup comes from the fact that we are shooting with intent from the beginning. We are purposefully underexposing to watch those highlights and we’re doing that with the knowledge that our camera can cope with that. Secondly, we’re also heavily leaning into our knowledge of fluorescent fabrics and how they react with coloured light. Lastly we are then combining all of that with some creative decisions in post production that tie them all together. We are lightening the shadows without blowing the highlights (too much) and then we’re pushing the colour tint to bring the whole image together. Simple, but incredibly effective when done well.

setup guesses.jpg

Guess the Lighting…

Occasionally I ask my Facebook community to guess the lighting in one of my shots and last week was one of those times with these images. Nearly every comment mentioned upwards of 3, 4, 5 and even 6 lights to achieve this. Many people also assumed I’d used UV lights to pop the colours and most assumed that those lights were pink or orange. These were all very sensible suggestions and in all honesty, if I’d been asked the same question, maybe I would have made the same suggestions too based on what I was seeing.

Feel free to join in with discussion next time by joining us over here at my Jake Hicks Photography Facebook Page.

But I hope this setup is a good example of how to exploit your knowledge and thinking through a potential setup with the end goal in mind. Yes I love to get as much done in-camera as I can. But I never shy away from using LR and PS to achieve something that is otherwise almost impossible any other way. These are creative decisions and they are unique to me and I hope that if you give this setup a try that you explore a variety of ways to push this look in multiple directions. After all, it’s super simple to try so give it a go and let me know how you get on.

 

Lastly…

If you are interested in learning more about my creative process in post-pro, why not join us on December 14th for my entire day of post production. To learn more about what topics in Lightroom and Photoshop I’ll be covering, check out the link Jake Hicks Photography - Post-Pro Workshop

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THANK YOU

Thank you as always for checking out my article and spending a little bit of your day with me here. If you have any questions about this one, then feel free to let me know in the comments below. I can’t promise to have all the answers, but I’ll certainly do my best to answer what I can. Thanks again for stopping by.


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More Free Tips & Techniques

If you’re after more tips and tricks on studio lighting then don’t forget to check out my monthly newsletter and my free 10 page pdf on studio lighting techniques. If you’re interested then follow the link below and download it immediately.

Did you receive my FREE 10 page PDF on Studio Lighting Tips yet?

Sign up to my monthly newsletter and receive my free 10 page pdf of my all time ‘Top 10 Photography Tips & Techniques’.

Once a month I’ll send you a newsletter of at least four photo related tips and tricks (one for each week I post them on here if you miss them) plus I’ll also keep you apprised of my new workshop dates as well.

Sign up now and you’ll get yourself a FREE 10 PAGE PDF of my all time ‘Top 10 Photography Tips and Techniques’!

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Tuesday 11.19.19
Posted by Jake Hicks
 

Review - Lumee LED Light - RGB & Bi-Colour

Technique Tuesday flash duration 2019 Lumee LED Light Review.jpg

I guess it’s a sign of the times, but I get sent far more LED lights to test than any other light…. even though I never personally use LEDs.

When I say I don’t use LED lights, it’s not because I have a dislike for them, but for me, they have limitations that I struggle to deal with when I shoot what I shoot. If you’re after some affordable continuous light for video work that looks natural and emulates everyday lighting, then LEDs are your first and smartest choice. But for what I do, which is often very controlled and saturated colour work that is anything but natural, I’m going to stick to the control and power of flash for now.

I mention this as I received these Lumee LED lights a few weeks ago and I couldnt really think how I could use them in my work. As a result they sat in my lighting kit as a sort of ‘just in case’ situation. After all, they take up almost zero room and weigh practically nothing so why not have them with me. But recently it dawned on me that they may have additional uses that I’d previously overlooked.

Full disclosure: I was sent these LED lights to play with by Spiffy gear. I have no affiliation with them and I am not being paid to review or endorse these products, nor will I get any commission from future sales of this product.

 

What are they?

So before we get into any impressions, let’s quickly look at what they are. After all, there are a trillion and one LED lights already on the market, what’s different about these?

Firstly, (as I previously mentioned), they are very lightweight and slim so can be brought almost anywhere. Once out of the box you’ll see that they are about 9 inches long and 1 inch wide. Running along the centre of them we have the LED strip and at one end we have some buttons.

Click to enlarge

Click to enlarge

Colours

I was sent both the ‘RGB Light’ and the ‘Bi-Colour Light’. They look the same, but the RGB is able to produce 15 colours ranging from reds, blues, greens, oranges, purples etc. The Bi-Colour model is able to produce 8 tones along the Kelvin scale ranging from 2700K up to 6000K.

Take a look below at the colour options available from each of these lights via the mini-manual provided.

Click to enlarge

Click to enlarge

 

Controls

At the base of each of the lights are the controls. They each have three buttons and they turn the LED strips on, change colour, cycle the effects etc.

Take a look at the example shots below that shows the LED buttons and the controls via the mini-instructions.

Click to enlarge

Click to enlarge

 

Features

One of the other key features these LED lights have is their ability to wrap into a bracelet shape so they can be attached to poles and bars without the need for additional support. Of course you could also wear these if were looking something in the dark and needed your hands free too.

Click to enlarge

Lastly, these are incredibly lightweight and this is in part due to the fact that they are powered by a small onboard battery. These micro batteries can power the LED bracelets at max power for one hour before they need recharging. This can be done via a USB cable adapter that they come supplied with.

Charging both of these from flat to full via my laptop took less than an hour.

Click to enlarge

Both of these bracelets also have magnets in the ends of them (as well as a hole to hook on to things). This is useful if you just want to magnet them to a metal surfaces. These magnets are not so strong as to be a worry around other electronic kit, but strong enough to easily hold them in place on vertical flat surfaces. Each pack also contains several metal discs that you can use in conjunction with the magnets to stick them to any surface if required.

 

First Impressions

JakeHicksPhotography (4 of 12).jpg

First impression were very good. The product is well packaged and easily understood via the simple instructions. The material feels robust, well made and I expect they will last a long time before needing to be replaced.

My next statement is difficult to quantify, but the LED light themselves produce a very clean and crisp light. All of the colours look great and on the Bi-Colour the Kelvin colours look legit and not simply ‘blue’ and ‘orange’ LEDs. The RGB colours are also very clean and even the mid-colours like yellow and purple look vibrant and not simply watered down versions of red or blue respectively. Like I said this is hard to justify with my words alone, but the Spiffy website quotes these LEDs as having a 95 CRI. If you’re not aware, CRI stands for Colour Rendering Index. Essentially the closer the CRI of the LED light to 100, the closer the light is ‘true’ colour. I’m a little hesitant on this index as I have no idea how the lighting industry works out what the ‘true’ colour of something is… but I digress.

Essentially these LEDs have an industry rating of 95 (out of 100) which goes a long way to explain why the light looks so clean and crisp. I’d have zero qualms about using these in any of my images alongside any other light.

 

Lighting Effects

One thing that will make these little LED lights stand out from some other cheaper models is their lighting features or ‘effects’. All of these effects can accessed by simply holding a button and closing through to the effect you want easily and quickly.

Both the Bi-Colour and the RGB versions have LED effects and they range from:

  • Breathing

  • Candle

  • Explosion

  • Red Carpet

  • Stroboscopic

on the Bi-Colour and the RGB includes:

  • Breathing

  • Police

  • Fire

  • TV

  • Fireworks

Take a look at the video below as I cycle through effects on both the Bi-Colour LED and RGB LED.

The video above shows the Lumee Bi-Colour LED cycling through its various colours, powers and effect modes.

The video above shows the Lumee RGB LED cycling through its various colours, powers and effect modes.

 

Practicality

Okay so we’ve established this is a well made product that has the ability to produce some very clean light, but what are they for? Well first and foremost they are for video. Place these almost anywhere to add a kick of light. It’s as simple as that. The brightness of these little things is deceptive and although the brightness of the RGB version will vary dependant on the colour used, the Bi-Colour LED provided a reading of f2.8, 1/60th at ISO 400 from 12 inches away. As I mentioned, this light will operate at that max brightness for an hour too.

The size and shape of them is also ideal for placing on set too. Light the keys of a piano, curled up and placed in a lamp housing to replicate candle light, above characters whilst they are in a car. These LED bracelets are really going to work well in those super-awkward spots where literally no other light can operate.

 

But you don’t shoot video Jake?

Click to enlarge - Image captured in a single frame with flash and light-painting tools.

This is very true and this is also the reason I’ve been sat on these for weeks and not used them. But these LED lights could also serve as very creative light-painting tools…

For those unaware, I like to shoot long exposure portrait images and during those long exposure shots I will often wave about a constant light source to get some very cool and interesting in-camera effects. If you’re interested in seeing some of the light painting tools I’ve used in the past to create these looks then take a look here 5 Professional and DIY Light Painting Tools For You to Try.

By using some of those constant light sources in conjunction with flash, you are able to flash the subject to get a crisp image, but with the shutter still open you are then able to ‘paint’ around the model in real time to create some truly unique effects.

You should start to see how these long exposure shots take form by looking at the image of the model included here. This is actually a 10 second exposure in a dark room. The flash illuminates the subject and then we paint around the subject.

 

Example shots

So from those light painting images and techniques I’ve shared, you should now start to see how these Lumee LED wands have huge potential for long exposure shots.

Here’s some example images of how some of the Lumee coloured light effects turned out.

All of the image below were taken with a 6-10 second exposure at f11 and ISO 100.

Click to enlarge - Lumee Bi-Colour set to ‘breathing’ effect

Click to enlarge - Lumee Bi-Colour set to ‘Red Carpet’ effect

Click to enlarge - Lumee RGB set to ‘Breathing’ effect

Click to enlarge - Lumee RGB set to ‘TV’ effect

Click to enlarge - RGB set to ‘Police’ effect

Click to enlarge - Lumee RGB set to ‘Breathing’ effect

In these images you can see the LED lighting effects and how they look during the period of 6-10 seconds in a single frame. Many of RGB effects that cycled through its colours over time looks incredible and I love just how smooth it appears. Many inferior LEDs will blink very rapidly. This is indiscernible by the naked eye normally, but when you use them in long exposure images the stuttering of the light is very noticeable and rarely looks good.

In the images you can also see the individual LEDs as they appear like lines. I knew this would happen and I initially thought I wouldn’t like the effect, but as it turns out, I actually really like it. If you wanted to remove that look of the individual lines, simply use a ‘diffusion gel’ over the LED wand itself and it will blur the individual colours into one. Take a look at the shots below to see what I mean.

Click to enlarge - This image shows the RGB Lumee ‘Breathing’ effect but with a diffusion gel over the wand to blur the individual LEDs.

Click to enlarge - This image shows the RGB Lumee ‘Police’ effect but with a diffusion gel over the wand to blur the individual LEDs.

 

Closing thoughts

Overall this is a well made product that produces superior results. If you shoot a lot of video and have to shoot in awkward or small locations, these deserve some serious consideration. Like I said, the quality of the light being produced by these LEDs is not to be dismissed and their light could easily be used to augment or accent other high quality LED devices too.

Another use for them is of course long exposure photography and light painting like I’ve shown you above. I was very impressed by how bright these were for light painting as I like to add flash to my long exposure portraits and having a very bright light painting tool gives me so many more option when it comes to constructing my shot. I am certainly looking forward to playing with these further to try and add something a little more unique than a single colour.

The only downsides to these are to be expected given their size, but charging them can be a pain. Leave them charged and united in your bag, and they will lose their charge over time. This is normal of course and this will apply to any charged product. But when it comes to using them, the only option you now have is to plug them into a USB device and wait an hour. Sadly, this could lead to them not being ready when you most need them.

My only other ‘want’ for these LED lights would be to have the option to adjust the brightness of the ‘effects’. As it stands, the effects only play at the brightest power which in some situations was too powerful for what I was using them for. To be fair, I simply wrapped a Neutral Density gel around the light and it was fine, but it’s worth knowing it can’t be adjusted via the light itself.

These LED lights aren’t cheap at $45 a pop, but then the brightness, the beautifully clean and crisp colours and colour effect features is what sets these Lumee LED lights apart from its cheaper counterparts.

For more info, check the website over at Spiffy Gear here LUMEE


THANK YOU

Thank you as always for checking out my article and spending a little bit of your day with me here. If you have any questions about this one then feel free to let me know in the comments below. I can’t promise to have all the answers, but I’ll certainly do my best to answer what I can. Thanks again for stopping by.


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More Free Tips & Techniques

If you’re after more tips and tricks on studio lighting then don’t forget to check out my monthly newsletter and my free 10 page pdf on studio lighting techniques. If you’re interested then follow the link below and download it immediately.

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Tuesday 11.05.19
Posted by Jake Hicks
 
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