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Should You Re-Retouch Your Old Photos?

Technique Tuesday Should You Re-Retouch Your Old Photos.jpg

Getting better at something does take time, but getting better is something that is ultimately inevitable, even if it doesn’t always feel like it. Every time you pick up your camera, you body and mind will learn something new no matter how small it may be. But this principle isn’t just applicable to the picture taking process, we’re also getting better every single time we use our picture editing software too.

But before we talk about software, first let’s take a quick look at how camera technology has evolved over the last couple of decades and what significance that plays in our retouching today.

What camera were you shooting with 10 years ago?

Camera technology and image quality has been excellent for well over a decade now and the cameras that many of us were using 10 years ago actually had good enough pixel quality to rival what we use today. Basically, the cameras that are now over 10 years old (like the now legendary Canon 5D Mk II released in 2008) produced files that are still classed as excellent today.

But so what?

The point here is that the industry baseline for acceptable image quality has been at a high enough standard for quite a long time now and as a result, we the creatives are reaching a point for the first time where we can go back and still easily use those old files we captured years ago.

The reason we couldn’t do this before with any reliable success was because the file quality simply wasn’t there. For the sake of argument, we couldn’t do this 10 years ago back in 2010, because the image quality of files being produced back in the early 2000’s were just too inferior compared to contemporary cameras at the time.

For example the Fujifilm FinePix S1 Pro released in 2000 was touted as producing a whopping 3.1 megapixels compared to cameras 10 years on from that. In 2010 Sony’s A 230 that had a far healthier 10.2 mega pixels and even prior to that the Canon 5D MKII had a blistering 21.1 megapixels back in 2008!

The vast leaps and bounds that the image quality took in the early 2000’s was simply staggering. But since then, image quality has somewhat flatlined due to file size increases simply being unnoticeable to even the most petty of photo judges.

In this article we look at the possible merits of ‘remastering’ your old files. Did we have the ability to extract the best possible image from our raws in the past? Is it time to re-retouch some of those old images?

In this article we look at the possible merits of ‘remastering’ your old files. Did we have the ability to extract the best possible image from our raws in the past? Is it time to re-retouch some of those old images?

Canon’s Game Changer

You’ll hear me reference this camera a lot in this article and for good reason too. The Canon 5D MKII released in 2008 and quite literally revolutionised an entire industry with its features and its leaps in quality. One of the biggest features though, was its monstrous full-frame sensor and its ability to record in full HD (1920 × 1080). I appreciate this may seem odd to some of my younger readers, but you have to remember that this was not possible at the consumer level until now. In fact, nothing else even came remotely close. The BBC began to use the 5D MKII for broadcast quality footage in 2009 and even the 2012 film ‘The Avengers’ used the 5D MKII for some of its scenes! This camera really did set a new bar in terms of quality thanks to its full-frame sensor and its a bar that so many other manufacturers would struggle to break or even reach for many, many years to come.

It’s probably worth noting here that I am indeed a dyed-in-the-wool Nikon shooter and have been… forever. This period was among one of the darkest times to be a Nikon shooter, and there was not a year that went by during this time that every Canon shooter justifiably laughed at us.

-If you're a Nikon shooter, I urge you to look away from the following paragraph… don’t do it to yourself!

For context, Nikon didn’t respond to the full-frame DSLR problem for nearly a decade! In fact it wasn’t until 2007 when Nikon released its D3, Nikon’s first full frame DSLR and wait for it….. it was 12 megapixels and cost $5000 at launch compared to the 20 megapixel 5D MKII that cost almost half that nearly 10 years prior. Like I said, that was a very dark time to be a Nikon shooter and I should think thousands of lost souls gladly jumped the Nikon ship during that time.…. and let’s just say that I ‘accidentally’ and momentarily fell out of the Nikon ship during this time too.

My First Gelled Lighting Shoot -Circa 2009

Like I said, I dare you to find anybody that wasn’t impressed by the 5D MKII back then. The studio I worked at had a bunch of them and my photographer friends all had them. As a result, I always asked to borrow their 5D MKII’s whilst my Nikon lenses sheepishly languished in my camera bag awaiting a half-decent body to use. But it was also during this time that I actually started to develop my gelled lighting style in earnest.

With the advent of digital technology and the quality of sensors now being able to render a far wider colour gamut, colour gels were far more viable than they’d previously been. You think colour-banding with gels is an issue now? Try shooting on a 20 year old digital camera and get back to me.

During my ‘adulterous’ period with the 5D MKII, I shot AND retouched this shoot below back in 2009…

PLEASE NOTE: This was my first Gelled Lighting Shoot!!! Don’t judge me!

IMG_9857flat.jpg
IMG_9951flat.jpg
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Like I said, the above shots were all from my first ever gelled lighting shoot back in 2009 and they were all retouched by myself at the same time in 2009 too.


Fast Forward to the Future…

The Era of Ultra 16K HD Remaster!

As many of my contemporaries will attest to, we’re currently living in a world of HD Remasters and remakes as the lazy production houses do everything in their power to cash in on those nostalgia dollars. But that being said, none of us can deny how incredible some of these Hollywood remasters look. The remasters of films like Jaws, Alien and Blade Runner are among some of the more notable versions, and their modern re-releases extract details and colours previously simply unimaginable during their theatrical release.

On the left we see the original theatrical release of Jaws from 1975. On the right, the HD remaster of the same film in 2012.

On the left we see the original theatrical release of Jaws from 1975. On the right, the HD remaster of the same film in 2012.

Is it Finally Time to Remaster Your Old Photos?

So can we do the same? Can we actually dig out our old files and ‘remaster’ them?

The very simple answer is yes.

Essentially this whole article so far has been a brief history lesson in understanding what constitutes an ‘acceptable’ quality of capture device. We are now living in an era where images we took 10 years ago, can essentially be remastered for the first time. If we go back any further than that, the cameras at the time simply didn’t capture enough information for us to make that viable, until now.

Modern Imaging Software

Of course it’s not just the capture device that has improved, it’s the technology that we use to extract that data too. We know this technology as Raw imaging software and some of these include ‘Adobe Lightroom’, ‘Capture One’ and ‘Adobe Camera Raw’.

The technology now available in this consumer level software is staggering, and again they have come an extremely long way in the last 10 years too. All of these software titles can now extract vast amounts of detail from both shadow and highlight regions of images that was previously considered as un-saveable. You can quite literally load up a 10 year-old file today and see data in the highlights and shadows that simply wasn’t visible or at the very least, useable when you originally took the shot.

What about Photoshop?

I’ve purposefully not included modern editing software like Photoshop here. Of course, there is no doubt that Photoshop has improved in the last 10 years, but has it really improved, or has it simply made many things more streamlined and easier to achieve? My point here is that you shouldn’t confuse your ability to improve with the software having more features. Tools like Curves, Levels, Colour Balance etc. have been part of Photoshop since the 90’s. Sure they’ve added a bunch of filters and tricks, but the softwares ability to drastically improve your shot, is largely based on your skill, not theirs. Photoshop’s success is that it gives many of us a safety net and the ability to make changes that would otherwise be baked into the image. It’s your ability and knowledge that is actually doing most of the heavy lifting here.

Photoshop 1 is 30 years old this year (2020), but I think you’d be surprised to hear that some of the tools you use today, were still in those initial instalments all the way back then. What version did you begin with?

Photoshop 1 is 30 years old this year (2020), but I think you’d be surprised to hear that some of the tools you use today, were still in those initial instalments all the way back then. What version did you begin with?

Your Modern Skills

Of course, let’s not omit the hugest gain in all of this; you skills. Your skills and ability has most definitely seen the biggest development over that time period and I’m not just referring to your camera skill either, how far has your software skills developed in that time? I’m guessing a lot.

We’re all learning new tricks in Lightroom and Photoshop all the time and although it doesn’t feel like it day to day, these skills all add up.

Conclusion

My final point to all this is that it may be worth having a rummage around on some of those old Zip Disks to see if there’s any untapped gold to be mined from those long abandoned archives. The shots you took 10 years ago may well have been captured on a pretty decent digital camera and the files may actually contain more than enough data for you to push and pull them around a bit to produce something half decent…. Now whether your photography skills were up to par back then is another matter ;)

For the sake of this article, I decided to give it a try with those old 2009 5D MKII files from my first gelled lighting shoot. Here’s the results….

Click on any of the shots above to enlarge them…

Like I said, there is some extremely questionable gelled lighting here and I’d like to think my lighting skills have come a long way since then, but the fact still remains that the quality from those files, that are now over 10 years old, is pretty staggering.

If you’d like to compare the two generations further, check the originals alongside the remasters below. Click on them to enlarge to fullscreen.


Click to enlarge this 400% zoom crop of that ‘old’ 5D MKII image.

Nerd-Note: I’m sorry, did someone actually say that this shot was taken with a 20 megapixel camera from over TEN YEARS AGO?!?!?

Click to enlarge the image: This is a 400% zoom crop from the PSD too. It’s not even the raw file!

I think you’ll agree that camera tech hasn't actually come as far as we might think it has in the last decade. Manufacturers like Sony and Fuji have dazzled us with ‘features’ but nothing of any real significance has happened to boost image quality at this scale. I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again, that Canon 5D MKII quite literally changed the game for image makers and if you’re looking to take your first steps into photography today, you can do a whole lot worse than picking up an old MK II. The damn thing is so good in fact that it’s actually still holding some of its value a decade later, and with many of them being sold second-hand from between £400-£500 - BODY ONLY!


Points to Consider

  • This article is being written during the global pandemic of 2020. We are currently not allowed to go out and shoot new work so many of us have turned to older work in our archives to edit instead. If this is you, now might be a good time to have a rummage about and see what you can play with from that old hard drive under your desk.

  • If you have old images that were taken after 2010, chances are that those files may have details and information in them that you’d not previously been able to extract. They might be worth a second look.

  • Don’t forget that your skills have also dramatically improved in recent years, and not just your camera and lighting skills either. Many of us have learnt new pieces software and many of us have simply just gotten better at using old software.

  • Raw editing software has come a very long way, but in terms of image editing software like Photoshop, not so much. 10 years ago I was doing very little to my raws prior to opening them in Photoshop, but software like Capture One and Lightroom have really revolutionised what can be extracted and achieved with our raw files today.

  • Image quality from modern consumer level cameras has not actually come that far in the last decade. I think you’d be surprised at the quality of your old files when you open them up.

I find it interesting that we are often unable to extract the maximum amount of data from our images at the time of capturing them. If this holds true, will we be doing the same thing with the images we take today, in 2030? Are we simply unable to fully realise the quality found in our latest cameras today?

Upon rereleasing the film Jaws on Blu-ray in 2012, director Steven Spielberg said this:

“The new restored version of the film looks better than the movie people saw in theatres in 1975”

Take care of those raw files you shoot today, they may indeed look even better in 30 years time!

-Featured model: Kayt Webster Brown.

P.S. It might be worth checking the comments to see if any Nikon shooters are STILL defending the D3 ;)


Thank You

Thanks for checking out this article and spending a little bit of your day with me here. I hope you found it useful and that you get a chance to dig through your archives to see if you can give some old shots a new lease of life. If you do, I’d love to see the before and afters. As always, if you have any questions, then by all means fire-away in the comments below and I’ll do my best to answer what I can. Thanks again and I’ll see you in the next one.

Don’t forget to sign up to my newsletter to be sent all of these photo tips and techniques articles every month in case you miss one.

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Have you downloaded my FREE 50 page book yet?

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Book 1 - ‘Understanding Light’ is available now and it covers the fundamentals of reading the light in a studio. Follow the link below and download your copy now. This book is free to anybody who wants to check it out, but all donations to the project are certainly greatly appreciated.

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Tuesday 05.12.20
Posted by Jake Hicks
Comments: 2
 

DIY Backdrops for Home Shoots & Lighting Setup

Technique Tuesday DIY Backdrops for Home Shoots.jpg

Bored of being stuck indoors yet? Shooting against the same white background all the time can get tiresome, so why not switch it up with some creative DIY alternatives.

Early on in my photographic career, I spent literally thousands of hours photographing subjects in front of white walls. This was an incredibly popular look in the 90’s as we moved away from the grey and brown cloudy backdrops of the 1980’s, but times are changing once again as we tire of the stark and clinical look of a pure white backdrop.

One way to liven up a white wall is to add some colour via coloured gels, but if that’s not your thing (FYI: you’re on the wrong website ;) ), what else can we do to try and add some variety to our simple and often boring looking white wall?

One way to go is to consider coloured paper backdrops. You’ll find these in nearly all studios and they come in a nearly limitless number of colours, but they all have one problem in common; they’re expensive.

So what other backdrop options are available to us if we want to add a huge amount of variety to our white walls, but don’t want to spend a huge amount of money?

 
This image is nearly 10 years old now, but the window blind backdrop behind this model is still going strong! Window blind backdrops are inexpensive and if cared for, will outlive most other backdrops.

This image is nearly 10 years old now, but the window blind backdrop behind this model is still going strong! Window blind backdrops are inexpensive and if cared for, will outlive most other backdrops.

Window Blinds

Window blinds are a fantastic solution to this problem as they come in hundreds of different styles, colours and materials and what’s even better, they’re relatively inexpensive too. There is one key shortcoming to point out with window blinds though, and that’s that window blinds are not great for full length body shots. But if you’re after half-body and head-shots, then window blinds are perfect.

A couple of things to look for when buying window blinds as photographic backdrops, are their thickness and size. Specifically, you’ll want to look for ‘blackout’ blinds. These are thicker window blinds meaning that they’ll last a lot longer, roll up flat, can even be spot cleaned with a damp cloth and they’re less prone to creasing too.

The second thing to look for is their size. Most of the time you’ll want to get the largest window blind you can so as to give the most photographic flexibility when you’re using them. You’ll often find many window blinds will have at least a 2m drop (height) and 2m width, which is perfect for nearly every portrait setup.

Once you start looking into the variety and options available to you, you’ll wonder how you never thought of using window blinds as photographic backdrops before.


window blinds.jpg

Why use a window blind as a backdrop?

  • Relatively easy to transport

  • Rolls up - no creasing or folds

  • Very affordable

  • Literally hundreds of options

  • Very easy to store

  • Won’t rip and tear like paper Coloramas can

  • Get the ‘black-out’ blinds and you’ll have little to no glare on the backdrop meaning the model can be quite close to it too


 
Again, this image is a little old now, but the same principles of what makes a ‘fake’ background like this work, is to bring the subject forward and shoot at a shallow depth of field to ensure the background behind is completely out of focus.

Again, this image is a little old now, but the same principles of what makes a ‘fake’ background like this work, is to bring the subject forward and shoot at a shallow depth of field to ensure the background behind is completely out of focus.

Lino

Whoa, whoa, whoa! Before you keep scrolling, hear me out. Lino can actually be extremely versatile in a home studio if used smartly.

This relatively inexpensive photographic background substitute has many nice benefits. For one, it’s affordable and usually around £5 per square metre. It’s heavy… in a good way. It hangs very flat because of its inherent weight and this goes a very long way in making the backdrop appear far more ‘believable’ behind the subject. It’s also portable if needed as it rolls up easily and like I mentioned, because of its inherent density, you have minimal curling.

Also, some of the more expensive ones have a detailed textured surface which again helps a lot with ‘selling’ the idea of a fake background behind the subject too.

Lino’s key feature is that they have a multitude of ‘real’ looking options over simple block colours. For example Lino has some very believable looking textured surfaces like stone and wood.

Personally, I think the idea of ‘fake’ backgrounds trying to appear real, looks less obvious and more environmental when it appears out of focus. Bringing the subject forward and shooting at a shallower depth of field will help to achieve this look.


lino small.jpg

Why use Lino as a backdrop?

  • Lots of ‘organic’ backdrop options like stone and wood

  • Relatively easy to transport

  • Rolls up - no creasing or folds

  • Very affordable

  • Literally hundreds of options

  • Very easy to store

  • Won’t rip and tear like paper Coloramas


 
Mottled backdrops have a pretty bad rep thanks to some horrendous 80’s family portraits. But they are seeing a comeback if used in the right situation.

Mottled backdrops have a pretty bad rep thanks to some horrendous 80’s family portraits. But they are seeing a comeback if used in the right situation.

Mottled Backdrops

Mottled backgrounds have always been associated with cheesy and old fashioned family portraits, but they are slowly making a comeback.

In recent years, top fashion photographers from around the world have been reintroducing the mottled backdrops into their fashion editorials. In the past these backdrops had fallen out of favour due to their association with old fashioned family portraits, but now they're coming back and if you're patient, there are some bargains to be had before they hit the mainstream again.

One option to get these mottled backdrops into your shots is to pick up a pre-made version. These can be a little pricey if you don't know where to look, especially as many of them are handmade. If you do know where to look though, you can still pick up the old-school versions (like you see pictured behind this model here) for next to nothing.

Alternatively (and in keeping with the title of this article), you can simply make a mottled backdrop yourself. It’s not actually too tricky and it won’t cost you too much either. Take a look at my previous article on how to make one - DIY Mottled Backdrop


Click on the image above to see how to make your own mottled backdrop

Click on the image above to see how to make your own mottled backdrop

Why use Mottled backdrops?

  • Get the cotton ones and they can literally be stuffed in a small bag when not in use

  • The neutral coloured ones can even be gelled for different looks

  • It’s possible to make one yourself

  • The DIY version is totally unique

  • The mottled backgrounds do tend to look good in slightly darker shots. If you’re a fan of a darker background, this might be the option for you


Window Blind Lighting Setup

JakeHicksPhotography (2 of 3) small.jpg

Okay, so we’ve discussed a few DIY backdrop options for your home shoots. Now let’s get a little practical and put one of these backdrops to use. In the following lighting technique, I’ll be using a simple, silver £40 window blind as the background of my portrait.

The setup

The beauty of these window blind backdrops, is that they can be used with any lighting setup, but here's one of my favourites.

What you will need:

  • 1x window blind (ideally 2m wide with a drop of 2m)

  • 2x lights (strobes or speed lights)

  • 1x silver reflector (optional)

  • 1x 90cm Octabox

  • 1x open-dish reflector

Note: You may need some way of holding the window blind behind the model. Ideally a couple of extra light stands would be perfect.


JakeHicksPhotography (1 of 1) small lan.jpg

Step 1 - Hanging the Backdrop

You can choose to hang your window blind however you like, but I like to use the two light stands and a crossbar method. Simply setup the crossbar and then drape the window blind over the top. The window blind will likely still be lightweight enough if you only have one light stand a clamp though.


JakeHicksPhotography DPS 3 Step 2.jpg

Step 2 - Keylight Placement

I will be using a small 90cm octabox here, but a beauty dish or small square softbox will also work. Place the keylight far enough away from the background so that it wont light the background as well. Position it just above the models head and angled down at 45 degrees.


JakeHicksPhotography DPS 3 Step 3.jpg

Step 3 - Background Light Placement

We will be lighting our background separately to the model, so we will be using a second light in this setup. Place the light behind where the model will be and at a height of just below the shoulders. I want to achieve a vignette of light on the backdrop behind the model so I want the light quite close to the background at about 1 to 2 feet away.


JakeHicksPhotography DPS 3 Step 4.jpg

Step 4 - Camera Settings

The more you shoot with studio lighting, the more you realise how little you actually change your camera settings. As always shoot at the lowest ISO your camera will allow, usually ISO 100, and then select the shutter speed that syncs to your lighting. If you're unsure then 1/125th is your best bet. Lastly, select an aperture of around f4 to f5.6. This should allow for the background to be out of focus whilst keeping the subject in focus.


JakeHicksPhotography DPS 3 Step 5.jpg

Step 5 - Model Placement

We have already established that we want to light our subject separately to our backdrop, so we should position our model at around 5 to 6 feet away from the background. If we do this correctly we should also have no trouble in hiding the background light behind our subject too.


JakeHicksPhotography DPS 3 Step 6.jpg

Step 6 - Add a Reflector if Needed

If you have a third light to use as a fill-light, then do so but if not, a simple silver reflector will do the job. Position it just out of shot below the frame and you can either place it on a stand or hand hold it. This will just bounce a little light from our keylight back into the shadows on the subject.


Click to enlarge


Thank You

Thanks for checking out this article and spending a little bit of your day with me here. I hope you found it useful and that you get a chance to give it a try yourself. If you do, I’d be very interested to see what backdrop you found. After all, there are some fancy window blinds out there so I’d love to see what you found. As always, if you have any questions, then by all means fire-away in the comments below and I’ll do my best to answer what I can. Thanks again and I’ll see you in the next one.

Don’t forget to sign up to my newsletter to be sent all of these photo tips and techniques articles every month in case you miss one.


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Tuesday 04.28.20
Posted by Jake Hicks
 

Lighting Setup: Foreground Flare

Technique Tuesday foreground flare.jpg

Adding creative lighting effects after the shot has been taken is easy, but nothing beats doing it properly.

There are a million-and-one ways to add creative flares and effects to your shots in post-production after you’ve taken the image, but nothing beats the look and feel of an image that has used in-camera flares and bokeh effects.

Creating in-camera lighting effects are not only a lot of fun, but they’ll always look better than if you just added someone else’s in post-production later.

The reason for this is simple; light reflects and refracts what’s around it, and if you’re adding someone else’s lens effects into your shots in post, it’ll always look foreign and out of place. Compare adding those foreground flare effects in Photoshop, with actually shooting with foreground elements between you and and the subject during the shoot, and the final image will always feel more natural and believable.

The best part about all of this is that it’s super simple to do. The technique requires very little skill to achieve and it’s also very cheap to implement. Plus, these great looking and totally unique images won’t require you to use somebody else’s lighting effects that may have been used by many other photographers too.

For this technique to work, all you really need is to place something between you and the subject you are photographing. A lot of the time this could be environmental elements like leaves or windows, but if you want to take a little more control of the effect, why not try handheld objects like glassware or crystals. By placing these elements in front of the lens and shooting at a wide aperture like f2.8 for example, you’ll get these beautifully soft and out of focus elements in the foreground of your image. 

Simply holding a wineglass in front of your lens will allow for light to catch it and produce a sense of depth. Hold crystals in front of your lens and you may even get the addition of rainbow colours in there too. The purpose of this technique is to add believable drama and atmosphere to your shot without the need for awkward and often unbelievable post-production effects.

In-Camera foreground elements

The purpose of many images is to create a sense of depth to them. This technique allows you to take control of that depth by adding your own foreground elements.

What you will need…

This is a fairly simple setup and one that can be achieved with very little gear and very little space. In fact this setup can easily be done in most small rooms at home.

  • 2 lights

  • 2 stands

  • A venetian blind (can be purchased for around £20)

  • 1 large softbox

  • 1 open dish reflector (a barn doors is a bonus, but not mandatory)

  • A fairly fast lens is also recommended. By fast lens, I mean one that has an aperture of around f2.8. This wider aperture will ensure we through those foreground elements out of focus and they don’t become distracting in shot.

  • Plus you’ll obviously need a selection of shiny things. Try some glassware first and then move onto more creative items later.

The Shoot

Adding a Window

For this setup we want to create a believable room scene in a studio environment.  I wanted to create a strong directional light to one side that was supposed to emulate window light. I couldn’t add a window to the studio, so I did the next best thing by adding a venetian window blind in front of a soft box. This cleverly tricks the viewers eye into assuming there is a window behind it when in fact it’s just a large soft box.

Click to enlarge: This is a visual trick that gives the viewer just enough information for them not to question what they’re seeing. If I’d just put a big soft box next to my subject, the audience don’t assume it’s supposed to be a window. If however, I put a venetian blind in front of it, you immediately assume it’s a window.

The Key light

The main light in this shot is in fact a large softbox placed behind a venetian blind to emulate sunlight coming through a window. You could use a couple of smaller softboxes back there too and you should also consider placing a white sheet between the softbox and the blind to soften the light even further. This ensures there’s no gaps in the light, especially if you’re using multiple softboxes.

Click to enlarge: This image shows the softbox behind the blind and how close the model is to the blind itself.

The ‘foreground’ light

Although we set this light up behind the subject, the core function of this bare reflector light is to light the glassware in front of our lens. For this light I’m just using an open reflector dish with some barn doors to control the spread of it if needed. This is then placed high-up on a stand so it can be pointed down to catch on the reflective surfaces of the glassware in front of our lens.

Click to enlarge: This light placed behind the model is actually going to be what lights our foreground elements.

The trick to this setup is to light our foreground elements. We’ll be holding glassware in front of our lens, but if no light falls on it, it won’t sparkle or shine and will immediately look out of place. This light placed behind the model and pointed back towards the camera is actually there to light the glasses we’ll be holding.

Note: If you have enough space, you can put this light further back and get it to light the side of the model too. This effectively becomes our hair light and the foreground light.

Model Position

Our window blind is pressed up against the wall, so we want our subject to be nice and close to the wall as well to ensure a bright and airy feel to the lighting. The model here is probably only a couple of feet away from the back wall and very close to the blind itself.

As our main light is behind our window blind, we’ll want our model facing into that blind as much as possible to ensure the most flattering light too.

Tip: Get the model to look into the blind and expose her first prior to turning on the backlight

Holding the Glassware

The final thing that ties this whole setup together will be the glassware in front of the lens. This is the really creative part of the setup as even small movements of the glassware can create significant changes in the final image.

Click to enlarge: Hold your glassware or other semi-transparent object over a small part of the lens.

You can of course hold whatever you want in front of your lens, but I do prefer just a simple glass that has some cut-glass features on its surface. Like I mentioned earlier, this technique can work with just about anything. If it’s shiny enough to catch reflections in the light, don’t be afraid to try it in front of your lens. Crystals, bare metals, beads, cutlery, cellophane… the list of items to try is endless. Couple that with the fact that you can introduce coloured elements in the foreground too and the possibilities are vast.

Once you have your desired shiny object at the ready, prepare to take a lot of shots to experiment with what works. As long as the light behind the model is pointing straight to camera, your object should be catching the light perfectly and if you’re ensuring that you’re shooting with a wider aperture, you should be getting those beautiful, big flared highlights in your shot with ease.

Final Image

Provided you’ve set everything up appropriately, your final shot should be looking something like this…

Click to enlarge: Provided everything has been placed correctly, after a few shots of manipulating the glass in front of your lens you should start to find a look that you’re happy with.


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Points to Remember

Flattering light - This large softbox creates a very soft and flattering light that is very easy to work with. Plus this is what a window light looks like so it helps ‘sell’ the look in a studio environment.

Model to background separation - By purposefully not lighting the white background behind our subject, we create a visual separation between foreground and background. If it was too bright back there, it would be distracting.

Controlling light spill - There is a light behind our subject, but you can see that it isn’t falling on her, but only onto the glassware in front of the lens. This is personal preference and I’ve chosen this here so as to not confuse the viewer with multiple light directions. It’s certainly worth considering more spill as an option though.

Foreground elements - The foreground elements here don’t look out of place, and their soft glow matches the already very soft light in the image. This is the sweet-spot for me personally. If those foreground elements become too dominant or bright in the shot, they start to be too distracting.


Why be creative?

This is a super-simple setup that requires very little in terms of space and equipment. But why bother with the foreground flare at all, why not just shoot the scene without anything in front of the lens?

This is of course totally up to you and you have a perfectly useable lighting setup without the foreground flare, but I’d possibly ask the same question back to you, ‘why not add that extra element and depth?’

Take a look at the two shots below and ask yourself which you prefer. The one with the foreground flare? Or the one without it?

Click to enlarge: This image is the final result of the foreground flare setup we’ve just covered.

Click to enlarge: This image is EXACTLY the same shot, but simply without the glass being held in front of the lens.

Of course, ultimately it’s up to you, but for me the difference is very clear. The one with the flare has an awful lot more atmosphere and is far more visually engaging to look at. For me, that is what photography is really about.

Model: Jaye


Thank You

Thanks for checking out this article and spending a little bit of your day with me here. I hope you found it useful and that you get a chance to give it a try yourself. If you do and you have any questions, then by all means fire-away in the comments below and I’ll do my best to answer what I can. Thanks again and I’ll see you in the next one.

Don’t forget to sign up to my newsletter to be sent all of these photo tips and techniques articles every month in case you miss one.


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Tuesday 03.10.20
Posted by Jake Hicks
 

Lighting Setup: Bounced Top Light

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Studio lighting can be tricky, but in reality shooting, in a big open studio space with all the fancy modifiers and stands is a damn sight easier than shooting in a small, cramped on-location space.

“But Jake, surely all professional photographers get to shoot in nice big, bright, airy studios all the time right?”

Even impressive looking lighting like this can be achieved in spaces as small as 2.4m wide, 3.3m long and 2.4m high.

Even impressive looking lighting like this can be achieved in spaces as small as 2.4m wide, 3.3m long and 2.4m high.

Wrong. In fact part of the job is having the ability to shoot almost anywhere and for those of us who end up shooting fashion and editorial style work, we need to shoot in some very awkward spaces. From underground nightclubs, fancy bathrooms, or even smaller European homes, all of these small spaces present a multitude of problems and if the client wants to shoot there, it’s your job to make it happen.

Eurasians shooting from home

But what if you’re not shooting commercially? What if you just love taking pictures of people and you’re limited to shooting from a home-studio space? To many of my U.S. readers, this is not always an issue, many of you are blessed with a little extra space at home compared to those of us in Europe and Asia. In fact, during one workshop in the U.S., one attendee was concerned about how little space they had to shoot in….. it turned out they only had a double-garage as a home-studio! That’s an American double-garage too, so it was likely bigger than my entire home! ;)

So to my Eurasian readers, the following tips for shooting in small spaces may be of more use to you than others. (Of course I only partly jest, I am fully aware that many Americans living in big cities are still in ‘cramped’ apartments, so I’m sure the following will be of use to you too ;) )

 

Awkwardly Small

The following lighting setup is the result of me trying to make the best of an awkwardly small space to shoot in. I knew my subject had some beautiful long, blonde hair and I knew that I wanted to shine a vivid colour onto it with some wind blowing the hair to get some fiery coloured hair effects.

The problem was the space we had to work in…

Click to enlarge: The space measured 2.4m wide, 3.3m long and 2.4m high.

 

Adding Top Lights

The space measured around 2.4m wide, 3.3m long and 2.4m high. Don’t get me wrong, that is very small and yes it’s very rare that you’d have to contend with space constraints like this, but this setup does prove what’s possible with a little ingenuity, even in spaces a tight as these.

Click to enlarge: This is what it looks like, had we tried to top-light the shot the normal way.

To illustrate the issue further, here’s what a top-light looks like in this space. And this is just a 60cm softbox.

Of course the simplest solution is to get the model to sit down. Lowering them in the shot will give you a little more space to work with above them. But even with them sat down, it still deosn’t give me enough space to use a large enough modifier, after all, I want the light to be big enough so that it can spread over a larger area. Having a spot or even a small soft box up there isn’t going to spread the light anywhere near enough in the space we have.

Click to enlarge: Using a large modifier above your subject ensures that the light spreads very evenly over a large area. But a large modifier simply isn’t possible in a small space like this.

So the problems we’re facing so far are as follows:

  • Very low ceilings

  • No space to use a boom

  • No way of getting a large enough modifier above our subject without that boom and higher ceilings.

 

The Solution

The solution I came up with miraculously fixes all of these issues perfectly and thankfully, the solution doesn’t require any fancy kit, pulley systems or holes in the ceiling!

The solution came from adding a false background behind the subject, and then placing (hiding) a hair light behind that. That hair light is actually placed low, but it’s angled up to the ceiling above the model.

In turn, the ceiling now has a large silver reflector pinned up against it via two light stands. These stands keep the reflector in place above the model thereby allowing the hair light to bounce its light off of it, over the background and then back down onto the model.

Click to enlarge: This shot above shows the introduction of a false background that we hide a light behind. Of course this false background makes are room even smaller, but the trade-off is worth it to have that beautifully big top light.

In the BTS image above, we see the large reflector pinned to the ceiling and we can also see the gap between the ceiling and backdrop. Note how flooded with colour that reflector is too. For context you can even see the stool at the bottom of frame …

In the BTS image above, we see the large reflector pinned to the ceiling and we can also see the gap between the ceiling and backdrop. Note how flooded with colour that reflector is too. For context you can even see the stool at the bottom of frame too.

One of the key factors for this lighting setup to work is that top-light. We want that light above the model to be pretty big, big enough in fact that it not only lights the hair, but the whole top of the body when they are sat down.

By placing a large silver reflector up there, we are effectively making that reflector the light source and it’s now a huge light source if we place our light correctly.

For that reflector to do its job properly, it needs to be bouncing as much light as possible. For that to happen, you need to ensure you’ve placed that pink light behind the subject low enough so that the light has space to spread before it hits the reflector. Look at the image above again and you’ll see that the pink light is completely covering that reflector, that is the only way this will work properly.

In terms of the modifier on the actual light itself, I’d recommend an open dish of some kind, but really any dish that will cover the reflector above.

Note: I’d be wary of using grids or honeycombs on that dish behind the background. Focusing the light too much will ruin the effect. Just use an open dish and if you’re concerned about the light spreading too much, just raise the light so that it’s closer to the reflector.

 

The Easy Part

Thankfully, now that we’ve set that pink light up, the actual key light for this setup is pretty straight forward. All we really need to do is get a large softbox behind or above us when we’re shooting and that’s it.

Rather than trying to gel an entire softbox, simple open it up and place a gel over the flashbulb instead.

Rather than trying to gel an entire softbox, simple open it up and place a gel over the flashbulb instead.

For this setup I did also add a blue gel to the interior of my softbox for that contrast in colour to the pink top light.

Note: When gelling a softbox; remember that you don’t need huge sheets of gel to make this happen. Rather than adding a large sheet of gel to the exterior of my softbox, I instead prefer to open up the softbox and place a smaller piece of gel over the flashbulb. This method is just as effective and will ensure all light leaving the softbox is gelled. This is certainly far easier and far cheaper than trying to gel the entire outside. Just be careful the gel inside is not sat on a hit tungsten bulb. Turn off the modelling lamp if that is the case.

 

Once your softbox is gelled, position it as far back as you can and get it up nice and high so that you are able to shoot underneath it.

Click to enlarge: Even in tiny, tiny spaces like this, great looking lighting is possible with a few clever tricks.

My advice in terms of modifier here is going to be a softbox over anything else and I’d also recommend as large of a softbox as you can stand in this space. I ended up using a 100cm Octa here, but 100+cm wide rectangular softbox is just as suitable.

The trick here is to use your understanding of light to your advantage. Having your big softbox super-close to the subject like this means that you need to have the power of it turned right down. As a result of this low power and closeness to the subject, the light drops-off to shadow VERY quickly, which in turn adds shadows to the edges of the model that can be coloured pink by the top light.

Try to think of it like your subject is just reflecting the light rather than you actually lighting them (yes I know all light is reflected, but I’m just trying to labour how low you want the power of that light to be). This very low powered blue light gives you far more control than you might think and as a result you are able to craft shape and form with just a single large modifier in the front.

Take a look at the shots below to see what we created from the shoot and this setup.

Click to enlarge

Click to enlarge

Click to enlarge

Click to enlarge

Click to enlarge

Closing Comments

Let’s not kid ourselves here, this is a cramped shooting space. But even with limited space like this, with a little ingenuity and refined light control, great lighting and great results are more than possible.

Look again at the shots included here and pay close attention to where the pink light is actually falling. See how it’s actually covering the entirety of the body from above? This is far more than a simple hair light and this is due to the sheer size of the light above our subject.

The reason I’ve pointed that out to you again, is because this is only a 2 light setup, yet it feels like it has the drama of more, thanks to how much that pink light is actually doing.

Note: Check the pink highlight on the underside of the right leg - I think that’s the light also bouncing underneath the background and coming up from below. -An unintended bonus.

Final Points to Remember:

  • Use a big enough silver reflector above. It should be as wide as your background and you can see the size of mine in the BTS shot above.

  • Get your pink light low in height. You want that light to be low so as to allow for the light to spread wide enough before it hits the reflector above.

  • Don’t use a grid or honeycomb on that reflector dish behind the background. If you’re worried about light-spill, move the light higher and control the spill via the height of the light. Using a grid will likely reduce too much light from hitting the reflector.

  • Use a big key light even though it seems like it’s not needed in that small space. By using a large key light, you can actually have more control of your light than you think. Bring it in close and turn it right down.

  • Get you subject sat-down - This does a couple of things. 1. It allows for the light to not be so intense on the head compared to the body when standing. 2. It allows for more of the body to be hit by the pink light when sat down. None of that pink light on the legs would be visible if she was standing.

  • Using a dark background is pretty mandatory. There is a huge amount of coloured light bouncing around in this small space and anything but black or dark grey back there results in a very messy background.

Lastly…

I appreciate that there are probably a couple of people out there who don’t like to use gels in every shoot they do. I’m personally not too sure what that’s all about, but for the two people out there who aren’t fans of gels, yet still managed to read all the way down here….. here’s an idea for you to try instead.

Click to enlarge: For those of you who aren’t interested in taking incredible looking photos, you can also try this setup without gels too.

As you can see in the example above, you could also try this setup without gels too. Obviously it wont look as good, but you already knew that. In this example I’ve just added a coloured backdrop to add a little contrast between the subject and that brighter top light, but any background could be used here instead.


Thank You

Thanks for checking out this article and spending a little bit of your day with me here. I hope you found it useful and that you get a chance to give it a try yourself. If you do and you have any questions, then all means fire-away in the comments below and I’ll do my best to answer what I can. Thanks again and I’ll see you in the next one.

Don’t forget to sign up to my newsletter to be sent all of these photo tips and techniques articles every month in case you miss one.


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I recently released a huge50 page studio lighting book, absolutely free.

Book 1 - ‘Understanding Light’ is available now and it covers the fundamentals of reading the light in a studio. Follow the link below and download your copy now. This book is free to anybody who wants to check it out, but all donations to the project are certainly greatly appreciated.

Download now
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Tuesday 02.18.20
Posted by Jake Hicks
Comments: 8
 

Social Media Analytics for Jake Hicks Photography - end of 2019

You can breath a sigh of relief as I promise to keep this quick. The reason for this brief look at 2019 in terms of social media is simply because I have good news to share.

2018 saw a horrendous decline in all aspects, consequently, this post last year was certainly far more analytical as I tried to manage the fallout of what was a pretty aggressive decline on my core social media platform, Facebook. If you’re interested to see what happened back then, you can see the full article here

Growth in 2019

Thankfully though, 2019 saw some growth and the ship began to rise again. So let's look at what happened on my Facebook business page over the last couple of years.

Above you can see the total followers for 2018 compared to 2019. Now granted, follower growth is extremely marginal on Facebook right now and that goes for many people, not just me. Conversely, I can share a picture of my morning cup of coffee on Instagram and get more followers overnight than I can get on my Facebook Page in a month!

The total number of followers is not everything, but for me, it’s the quality of the followers that’s important. I’d take 100 engaged and enthused followers on Facebook over a million bots on Instagram.

Yes, I’m exaggerating, but the point still stands that I prefer the Facebook platform for its ability for me to discuss and communicate with other creatives compared to just getting ‘likes’ or emojis on Instagram. I’m not saying its better, but I am saying it’s what I prefer for my community.

Engagement in 2019

Now let’s look at the actual engagement of those followers. Sure, you can have thousands of fans, but it’s pointless if you’re not posting engaging content.

I’m sure many of you who are here are not confused by these figures, but if you’re new to Facebook, let me explain the significant dissonance between total followers versus ACTUAL people seeing and engaging with anything you post.

So how can a page with well over 20,000 followers only get a 1000 or so people engaging with its content? This is just business along with the fact that people have been leaving Facebook in droves in recent years. So on one hand, if you want all of your followers to see your posts, you have to pay for that privilege. On top of that, there are of course many people who liked my page and then left facebook resulting in that distance between the two figures.

For me, the most important and TRUE figure to look at is ‘post reach’. This is the number of people who actually see your post and thankfully, that number grew nicely. Sure this is not a big number, but remember, people are leaving Facebook in droves so any growth is a significant one compared to many others.

Most Liked Content of 2019

Again, we see a nice bump this year compared to last. Heres the top 10 liked images of 2019.

So at first glance, this looks pretty good. But most importantly for me, these are all consistent numbers. For example I don’t have a number 1 with 1000 likes and number 2 with 150. From 1 to 10, the likes are consistent. What isn’t really shown particularly clearly here though, is that all of these, bar one, are all in the last half of 2019. In fact, the first half of 2019 saw horrendous figures in many of the shots.

To give you a little context, here’s the total number of likes (adding up all likes for all 10 shots) one the past few years.

Total number of combined likes for all Top 10 images in 2015 = 2978

Total number of combined likes for all Top 10 images in 2016 = 2567

Total number of combined likes for all Top 10 images in 2017 = 4297

Total number of combined likes for all Top 10 images in 2018 = 2597

Total number of combined likes for all Top 10 images in 2019 = 3204

Conclusions

By all means, you can interpret the data however you like, but for me, this is positive news. The media has done nothing but tell us that Facebook is dead and that everybody is leaving etc. etc. Although, I’m sure they’re not technically wrong. I mean, I doubt many children are signing up to be a part of the same social media platform as their kids, but it could actually be that many are coming back to Facebook from Instagram.

Of course, counter to all of this speculation, it could just have been that the growth was down to something that I actually did. 2019 saw me really drive my page with more time being spent on it with me ‘Share-a-Shoot’ posts every Monday. In fact, the last part of 2019 saw me actually do live feedback once a month for a couple of hours each time. I introduced prizes and gifts for long time fans of the page and Ive done nothing but encourage interaction and feedback with the community.

So regardless of whether people are ‘coming back’ to Facebook, or if I’m simply creating a more generation engaging community to be a part of, whatever it is, it’s working and I aim to continue it into 2020!

P.S. Of course one possible reason for the community growth in 2019 that wasn’t mentioned in the main body of text could be…. no it’s so unlikely that I wont bother mentioning it….unless….. could it be that I’m producing better photography in 2019 than in 2018?!?!?

Surely better work coudnt’t be the reason for more likes on my images!!!!!

Heretic! Burn the witch!


THANK YOU

Thank you as always for checking out my article and spending a little bit of your day with me here. I know this wasn’t a particular exciting article, so if you made it all the way to the end, you have my respect.

If you have any questions about this one, then feel free to let me know in the comments below. I can’t promise to have all the answers, but I’ll certainly do my best to answer what I can. Thanks again for stopping by.


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Tuesday 01.14.20
Posted by Jake Hicks
 
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