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Jake Hicks Photography
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Comparing the Image Quality - Nikon D850 Vs. Nikon D610

Technique Tuesday Facebook Thumbnail d850 d610.jpg

I treat my camera like I treat a car, it has one core job and that's what I use it for with very little interest or need for the peripheral add-ons and shiny new features that may also be part of that product. A car gets you from point A to B and everything else is fairly superfluous, sure there are often quality-of-life features but when it comes down to it, we buy a car for transport not seat warmers and illuminated mirrors in the sun visor. A camera, like a car, is a tool.

For me a camera has that same tool-like function, and in my work I buy and use a camera for that one goal of simply recording what's in front of me. As a result, I keep my cameras a very long time, and just like my cars I usually only replace them when they break beyond repair. This time was different though, I had my backup Nikon D600 and main D610 body for many, many years and although they didn't break beyond repair, I decided to upgrade to the Nikon D850 largely due to seeing a deal that was simply too good to miss.

The Nikon D850 is one of the newest full frame additions to the Nikon lineup and was released late in 2017.

The Nikon D850 is one of the newest full frame additions to the Nikon lineup and was released late in 2017.

Was the upgrade worth it?

Was the upgrade from the D610 to the D850 really worth it though? After all, I just said that I'm only looking for a camera to do one thing and that's take pictures. If the D610 took pictures well, did I really need to upgrade?

So to see if it was worth the upgrade I wanted to check the image quality of both cameras to really see for myself if the D850 hype was justified.

Beyond the marketing rat-race that is the megapixel war of 'more is better', I want to look at the actual results of the photos this D850 can take and as such I wont be focusing on all the fancy bells and whistles like touch screens and D-lighting improvements. I really want to get down to the core of photography here and that to me means image 'quality'.

Granted quality is a very personal and subjective topic and it's also something that is all to often unjustly associated with megapixels. The size of the file produced by the 24 megapixel D610 is 6016 x 4016px. This is clearly dwarfed by the monstrous D850's 46 megapixels and 8256 x 5504px file but is that really the deciding factor of quaintly?

Don't get wrong, megapixels plays a role in quality but just like buying a car with a top speed of 202mph and using it on roads limited to 80mph, it's nice to have but rarely ever actually used or more importantly needed. 99% of photographers will never need a file larger than 8 megapixels due to most of our work never ever leaving our screens. I use to use an old crop-frame, 8 megapixel camera for years commercially and those files were cropped into by art directors and blown up to billboard sizes without anybody noticing or complaining. Mega pixels are nice but ultimately rarely required.

So if I'm not looking at image quality from a megapixel perspective, how will I be judging 'quality' between these two cameras.  I'll be looking at colour depth, tone separation, noise, latitude and anything at all that may influence the visual look and feel of a shot in my field of work, which is primarily artificially lit fashion and portraiture. If any of those factors are interesting to you as a digital photographer (that's a trick question by the way, they're fundamentally crucial to you) then let's get on with the test.

For my test I had to put stats aside and simply test it for myself and the following images and opinions are the results of those image tests. I've include all the images in a larger size on separate page too so you can make your own opinions too. They can be found here if you want to take a look.

If you're interested in the finer details of the D850 I highly recommend checking out these resources as they really know more than I'll ever want to know about the more technical aspects of the camera.

Nikon God, Ken Rockwell D850 Review

All around nice and safe review written by suspected androids DPReview D850 Review

 
The Nikon D610 and its predecessor the D600 served me well for many, many years but it was time to test out its much bigger brother. The D610 was originally released in mid 2014.

The Nikon D610 and its predecessor the D600 served me well for many, many years but it was time to test out its much bigger brother. The D610 was originally released in mid 2014.

The Test

Okay so if you're still here, let's get started with some horrendously unscientific image quality tests and some utterly biased personal opinions.

I set up two tests; the first was a scene of colour that contained varying surfaces, textures and brightnesses and the second was purely a greyscale scene. The colour one was to observe colour depth and how the separation of colour was maintained across various surfaces and the greyscale one was to check highlight and shadow detail as well as moire issues and general exposure latitude.

Each of the scenes was shot on both the Nikon D610 and the Nikon D850 one after another and they were swopped on and off a tripod to maintain as close a match as I could plus they both used the exact same basic 28-105 f4 Nikon lens.

Both cameras were set to shoot their largest raw and if you're not familiar with the image quality on both of these cameras then here's the figures:

Nikon D610

  • Full-frame CMOS sensor
  • Effective pixels - 24 megapixels
  • Max resolution - 6016 x 4016

Nikon D850

  • Full-Frame BSI-CMOS Sensor
  • Effective pixels - 46 megapixels
  • Max resolution - 8256 x 5504

Okay so obviously this is not a fair fight whatsoever and it's no spoiler to say that we're expecting the D850 to outperform the D610 with ease, but the point of the test was to see by how much. Was it worth the upgrade when I was more than happy with D610 originally?


The Image Tests

There are an awful lot of hi-res images that go with this test and it took me an hour just to upload them. To avoid boring most of you I've put the final shots in a separate page so as to not cripple your computer under the weight of them, if you're interested in viewing the actual files then by all means check them out via this separate page here. I was pulling my hair out trying to upload them, so hopefully at least one person will find them useful. For the rest of us, let's look at the tests I performed, the settings and lighting I experimented with and then finally some side by side comparisons of the results.

The colour setup looked like this. The lighting I ended up going with was fairly flat but it was a mix of flash and ambient via the coloured LEDs that can be seen in shot too.

The colour setup looked like this. The lighting I ended up going with was fairly flat but it was a mix of flash and ambient via the coloured LEDs that can be seen in shot too.

The greyscale setup was very similar and all that really changed was the scene and the coloured LEDs were turned to white.

The greyscale setup was very similar and all that really changed was the scene and the coloured LEDs were turned to white.


The Shot Settings

There were six shots taken on each of the two cameras and of each of the two scenes.

The 6 shot settings were as follows:

  1. 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - With Flash
  2. 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - No Flash
  3. 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash overpowered by three stops
  4. 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash underpowered by three stops
  5. 1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 3200 - With Flash
  6. 1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 30 (Lo.1) - With Flash (this is technically a little overexposed but I really wanted to check the Lo. 1 without altering the other parameters too much)
 

D610 Colour & Greyscale Setups - No post pro changes applied.

1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - With Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - With Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - No Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - No Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash overpowered by three stops
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash overpowered by three stops
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash underpowered by three stops
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash underpowered by three stops
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 3200 - With Flash
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 3200 - With Flash
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 30 (Lo.1) - With Flash
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 30 (Lo.1) - With Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - With Flash 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - No Flash 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash overpowered by three stops 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash underpowered by three stops 1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 3200 - With Flash 1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 30 (Lo.1) - With Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - With Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - With Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - No Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - No Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash overpowered by three stops
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash overpowered by three stops
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash underpowered by three stops
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash underpowered by three stops
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 3200 - With Flash
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 3200 - With Flash
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 30 (Lo.1) - With Flash
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 30 (Lo.1) - With Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - With Flash 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - No Flash 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash overpowered by three stops 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash underpowered by three stops 1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 3200 - With Flash 1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 30 (Lo.1) - With Flash
 

D850 Colour & Greyscale Setups - No post pro changes applied.

1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - With Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - With Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - No Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - No Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash overpowered by three stops
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash overpowered by three stops
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash underpowered by three stops
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash underpowered by three stops
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 3200 - With Flash
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 3200 - With Flash
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 30 (Lo.1) - With Flash
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 30 (Lo.1) - With Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - With Flash 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - No Flash 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash overpowered by three stops 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash underpowered by three stops 1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 3200 - With Flash 1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 30 (Lo.1) - With Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - With Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - With Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - No Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - No Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash overpowered by three stops
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash overpowered by three stops
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash underpowered by three stops
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash underpowered by three stops
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 3200 - With Flash
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 3200 - With Flash
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 30 (Lo.1) - With Flash
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 30 (Lo.1) - With Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - With Flash 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - No Flash 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash overpowered by three stops 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash underpowered by three stops 1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 3200 - With Flash 1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 30 (Lo.1) - With Flash
 

Below are some tight crops of varying elements of the two scenes from each of the two cameras. If you're viewing this on your computer browser then I've aligned the galleries so that the D610 and the D850 images sit side by side, making it far easier for you to compare the respective shots from each of the models.

D610

1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - With Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - With Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - No Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - No Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash overpowered by three stops
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash overpowered by three stops
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash underpowered by three stops
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash underpowered by three stops
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 3200 - With Flash
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 3200 - With Flash
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 30 (Lo.1) - With Flash
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 30 (Lo.1) - With Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - With Flash 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - No Flash 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash overpowered by three stops 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash underpowered by three stops 1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 3200 - With Flash 1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 30 (Lo.1) - With Flash

D850

1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - With Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - With Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - No Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - No Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash overpowered by three stops
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash overpowered by three stops
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash underpowered by three stops
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash underpowered by three stops
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 3200 - With Flash
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 3200 - With Flash
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 30 (Lo.1) - With Flash
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 30 (Lo.1) - With Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - With Flash 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - No Flash 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash overpowered by three stops 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash underpowered by three stops 1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 3200 - With Flash 1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 30 (Lo.1) - With Flash
 

D610

1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - With Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - With Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - No Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - No Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash overpowered by three stops
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash overpowered by three stops
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash underpowered by three stops
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash underpowered by three stops
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 3200 - With Flash
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 3200 - With Flash
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 30 (Lo.1) - With Flash
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 30 (Lo.1) - With Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - With Flash 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - No Flash 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash overpowered by three stops 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash underpowered by three stops 1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 3200 - With Flash 1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 30 (Lo.1) - With Flash

D850

1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - With Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - With Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - No Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - No Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash overpowered by three stops
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash overpowered by three stops
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash underpowered by three stops
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash underpowered by three stops
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 3200 - With Flash
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 3200 - With Flash
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 30 (Lo.1) - With Flash
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 30 (Lo.1) - With Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - With Flash 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - No Flash 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash overpowered by three stops 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash underpowered by three stops 1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 3200 - With Flash 1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 30 (Lo.1) - With Flash
 

D610

1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - With Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - With Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - No Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - No Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash overpowered by three stops
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash overpowered by three stops
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash underpowered by three stops
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash underpowered by three stops
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 3200 - With Flash
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 3200 - With Flash
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 30 (Lo.1) - With Flash
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 30 (Lo.1) - With Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - With Flash 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - No Flash 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash overpowered by three stops 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash underpowered by three stops 1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 3200 - With Flash 1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 30 (Lo.1) - With Flash

D850

1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - With Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - With Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - No Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - No Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash overpowered by three stops
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash overpowered by three stops
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash underpowered by three stops
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash underpowered by three stops
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 3200 - With Flash
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 3200 - With Flash
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 30 (Lo.1) - With Flash
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 30 (Lo.1) - With Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - With Flash 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - No Flash 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash overpowered by three stops 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash underpowered by three stops 1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 3200 - With Flash 1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 30 (Lo.1) - With Flash
 

D610

1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - With Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - With Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - No Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - No Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash overpowered by three stops
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash overpowered by three stops
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash underpowered by three stops
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash underpowered by three stops
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 3200 - With Flash
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 3200 - With Flash
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 30 (Lo.1) - With Flash
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 30 (Lo.1) - With Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - With Flash 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - No Flash 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash overpowered by three stops 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash underpowered by three stops 1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 3200 - With Flash 1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 30 (Lo.1) - With Flash

D850

1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - With Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - With Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - No Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - No Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash overpowered by three stops
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash overpowered by three stops
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash underpowered by three stops
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash underpowered by three stops
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 3200 - With Flash
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 3200 - With Flash
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 30 (Lo.1) - With Flash
1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 30 (Lo.1) - With Flash
1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - With Flash 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - No Flash 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash overpowered by three stops 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash underpowered by three stops 1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 3200 - With Flash 1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 30 (Lo.1) - With Flash
 

The Results

Camera Cataracts

So granted that's an awful lot of images and I feel they speak for themselves but I'll share my opinions below for those of you that are interested.

Let's just deal with the elephant in the room right away here. Below is a side-by-side comparison of the same image from both cameras, the D610 is on the left and the D850 is on the right. Frankly, I was utterly stunned, there's no other word for it and I triple checked the file data and file numbers as I was convinced these two shots were not taken under the same lighting conditions and with the same settings.

Below: The image on the left is from the D610 and the image on the right is from the D850

JakeHicksPhotography (1 of 6).jpg
JakeHicksPhotography (1 of 6).jpg

You need no technical acumen to be able to see the difference between these two files. The D610 looks like its been photographed through cataracts and if you're unsure of what cataracts are, let's take a look at the medical definition of them.

"A cataract is a clouding of the lens in the eye which leads to a decrease in vision. Symptoms may include faded colors, blurry vision, halos around light, trouble with bright lights, and trouble seeing at night."

This pretty much describes exactly what is going on with this D610 file. Halos around lights, faded colours and blurry. The D850 in comparison is clean, sharp and shows utterly incredible definition between very contrasting colours resulting in a stunning level of saturation and clarity. I can go on but the D610 is producing nothing short of a very muddied and cloudy image compared to what feels like a bright sunny day from the D850. It was these two images alone that closed the book on the 'was it worth the upgrade' discussion. Even if you don't read any more of this article, I feel you already have more than enough information to make the necessary decision.


Colour Clumping

In the images below, both shots were purposefully underexposed via not firing the flash. In Lightroom the images were brightened by three stops each to compensate and simply exported with no further adjustments.

Below: The image on the left is from the D610 and the image on the right is from the D850

JakeHicksPhotography (2 of 6).jpg
JakeHicksPhotography (2 of 6).jpg

This test really looks at colour latitude and it goes a long way in showing how underexposed colour are rendered out in the files. For example, your subject may be correctly exposed but the background behind may be purposefully underexposed, and this test will show how colours are captured in the shadow areas of a shot.

Take a closer look and you'll see the colours maintain their contrast far more in the D850 file (the right hand image) after they've been corrected. And even in the colours that weren't too underexposed to begin with, like the turquoise bottle at the top of frame, look at how the D610 (left hand shot) clumps colours together to the point that the text is now unreadable. This is how colour banding forms and there's far more colour definition in the D850.


Moire

One other thing that I'd heard talk of was the moire effect being far less noticeable on the D850. Moire is that odd optical illusion that happens when photographing tight patterns like fabric. The shots below are unprocessed crops of two correctly exposed files

Below: The image on the left is from the D610 and the image on the right is from the D850

JakeHicksPhotography (1 of 6)-2.jpg
JakeHicksPhotography (1 of 6).jpg

In fairness to the D610, I can see very little difference between the two files where moire is concerned. Look at the crumpled white fabric at the top of this frame to see for yourself. Again, it's also worth noting the contrast halos appearing here again even though there is no colour involved. Look at where the grey paper meets the black paper and in the D610 file you'll see that frustrating cloudy effect once again. D610 file on the left, D850 on the right.


Exposure Latitude

Lastly, let's look at the exposure latitude and in the images below I've purposefully overexposed a shot by three stops and then reduced the exposure in Lightroom by three stops to compensate. This is a crude but effective method of forcing extremes in exposure in a single file to see how lights and darks perform when being badly lit. The images were exported with no further adjustments.

Below: The image on the left is from the D610 and the image on the right is from the D850

JakeHicksPhotography (3 of 6)-2.jpg
JakeHicksPhotography (3 of 6)-2.jpg

In fairness again there's very little difference in these two shots. The D610 shot is on the left and the D850 shot is on the right. The only noticeable difference is a slight increase in colour in the D610 due to the aggressive exposure compensation. This is very common and we're used to seeing it in high ISO images but it can be forced in tests like these too. Even with three stops of compensation, the D850 has very little, if any colour increase whatsoever in the pixels. The blacks and whites on the left and right are incredibly clean and the contrast is maintained which can be seen in the white fabric in the top left. 


JakeHicksPhotography (1 of 4)sq.jpg

Closing Comments

In all honestly I can go on and on discussing the image quality differences at varying ISO's, why I'll never take my D850 off ISO Lo.1 and more, but as you expected, the D850 excels in all of them when compared to a camera from a few years ago. So was the upgrade worth it? Yes, and although I was initially very sceptical of the new D850 thanks in part to Nikons obscure and frankly very poor marketing methods of selling the 'quality of life' features over actual image quality! Thankfully this test has proven itself beyond my wildest expectations to be a significant upgrade for what really matters for photographers, image quality and not the damn tilting touch screen or improvements to the 'picture modes'!

The biggest factor by far is that cataract/haloing effect and the subsequent issues it produces. With all light seemingly bleeding and bouncing around on that old chip of the D610, it leads to a lack of contrast, a lack of saturation and of course and very significant lack of sharpness. Truth be told, I was aware of this effect happening in my images on my D600 and D610, but I always blamed the lenses and never the camera. I now know better and although I can't say if this problem was fixed in the D800 and D810 it's certainly fixed now in the D850.

 

I'd love to discuss these images further and although this article was supposed to be a quick camera test article, the results threw me way off and I had to investigate further, resulting in this monster article. If you're interested then I urge you to compare some of the other shots I've provided here too. Notably, look at how the two cameras perform at ISO 3200 and also look at how the D850 performs at ISO 200 compared to ISO 30 (Lo. 1). That quality at Lo.1 is nothing short of incredible which is counter to what I hear people saying about always trying to shoot at the native ISO for the best quality.

If you have any questions or points to add, I'd love to hear them in the comments below. Also if something doesn't make sense, I apologise but let me know and I'll explain it further or correct something if need be.

Also, If you're new here then feel free to join our very active community of like minded lighting-nerds (c'mon, admit it, you're one of us :D ) on my Facebook page. I'm always discussing lighting ideas and offering feedback on community images over there.

If you'd like to stay up to date on more photography related tips and techniques then sign up to my mailing list where I'll send you a monthly roundup of all my articles (plus signing up gets you a free 10 page studio lighting pdf too :) ). Thanks again and I'll see you all in the next one.


:WARNING: Let me save you some money, don't buy a D850, check out these cool, utterly unrelated alternative purchases instead.


If you're interested in any of my work and would like to know more about how I created some of my shots then why not check out my workshops. Here you can find out everything there is to know about Gelled Lighting, Long Exposure Flash Photography and my entire Post-Pro Workflow. Jake Hicks Photography - Workshops

gel workshop trio.jpg

I've also just released a brand new 22 hour complete Gelled Lighting Tutorial video. I go over everything from studio lighting setups with gels to being on location with gels plus I also go through my complete retouching and post pro workflow. For more details and complete breakdown of everything that's include check out my Coloured Gel Portraits Tutorial

gel trio set video.jpg

I also offer comprehensive coloured gel packs. These collections of gels are what I use day to day to create some of the most highly saturated colours around. If you're looking at getting into gelled lighting or need to get stronger and richer colours in your coloured gel work why not check out my Jake Hicks Photography Gel Packs

gel trio set crop.jpg
Tuesday 05.01.18
Posted by Jake Hicks
Comments: 11
 

Comparing the Files - Nikon D850 Vs. Nikon D610 - All The Files

This page simply houses all the files and crops from the original post for your viewing pleasure. If you've found your way here without seeing the original article then that can be found here.


The Shot Settings

There was six shots taken on each of the two camera of each of the two scenes. The shot settings were as follows:

  1. 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - With Flash
  2. 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - No Flash
  3. 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash overpowered by three stops
  4. 1/8th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 200 - Flash underpowered by three stops
  5. 1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 3200 - With Flash
  6. 1/125th Sec - f5.6 - ISO 30 (Lo.1) - With Flash (this is technically a little overexposed but I really wanted to check the Lo. 1 without altering the other parameters too much)

Colour Test

The following shots were untouched and simply exported straight from Lightroom at a size of 4000x2670px and saved as max quality jpegs.

Nikon D610

Camera settings for each shot is detailed under each shot. -Click to enlarge-

JakeHicksPhotography (3 of 6).jpg
JakeHicksPhotography (6 of 6).jpg
 

Nikon D850

Camera settings for each shot is detailed under each shot. -Click to enlarge-


Colour Test - Crop 01

The following shots were adjusted to compensate for under and over exposed shots. Crops were also applied to all shots to show detail in the colours, highlight and shadows. The cropped files were then exported straight from Lightroom at a size of 4000x2670px and saved as max quality jpegs.

Nikon D610

Camera settings for each shot is detailed under each shot. -Click to enlarge-

 

Nikon D850

Camera settings for each shot is detailed under each shot. -Click to enlarge-


Colour Test - Crop 02

The following shots were adjusted to compensate for under and over exposed shots. Crops were also applied to all shots to show detail in the colours, highlight and shadows. The cropped files were then exported straight from Lightroom at a size of 4000x2670px and saved as max quality jpegs.

Nikon D610

Camera settings for each shot is detailed under each shot. -Click to enlarge-

 

Nikon D850

Camera settings for each shot is detailed under each shot. -Click to enlarge-


Greyscale Test

The following shots were untouched and simply exported straight from Lightroom at a size of 4000x2670px and saved as max quality jpegs.

Nikon D610

Camera settings for each shot is detailed under each shot. -Click to enlarge-

 

Nikon D850

Camera settings for each shot is detailed under each shot. -Click to enlarge-


Greyscale Test - Crop 01

The following shots were adjusted to compensate for under and over exposed shots. Crops were also applied to all shots to show detail in the colours, highlight and shadows. The cropped files were then exported straight from Lightroom at a size of 4000x2670px and saved as max quality jpegs.

Nikon D610

Camera settings for each shot is detailed under each shot. -Click to enlarge-

 

Nikon D850

Camera settings for each shot is detailed under each shot. -Click to enlarge-


Greyscale Test - Crop 02

The following shots were adjusted to compensate for under and over exposed shots. Crops were also applied to all shots to show detail in the colours, highlight and shadows. The cropped files were then exported straight from Lightroom at a size of 4000x2670px and saved as max quality jpegs.

Nikon D610

Camera settings for each shot is detailed under each shot. -Click to enlarge-

 

Nikon D850

Camera settings for each shot is detailed under each shot. -Click to enlarge-


Sunday 04.29.18
Posted by Jake Hicks
 

Top 5 ways to achieve shiny skin in your photos

Technique Tuesday Facebook Thumbnail shiny skin.jpg
Shiny skin in photos can look amazing and even if you're not shooting sports or swimwear, the shiny skin can make colours and lighting really pop.

Shiny skin in photos can look amazing and even if you're not shooting sports or swimwear, the shiny skin can make colours and lighting really pop.

Shiny skin in photos is becoming more and more popular all the time and whether it's for sports, beachwear or even regular fashion, that metallic skin sheen is being seen everywhere. Long gone are the days where we we're desperately trying to matt-down skin to avoid the shine, now makeup artists are regularly being asked to produce the 'dewey' skin look.

In the past we were conscious of our cameras highlight limitations and we had to be very wary of oily skin clipping the highlights in our shots. Now with cameras being far more capable, we love that skin sheen as it helps to sculpt and shape the body through highlight and tone that's simply not possible with dry, flat looking skin.

So how do we enhance the skin shine?

The following five tips are what I use but bear in mind that these tips are really for adding shine to the body, not the face. If you're after the shiny, dewey face then a professional makeup artist is definitely recommend. the reason for this is that the face will have a lot of makeup on it and us adding oils on top of that to get the shine will very quickly destroy and ruin the makeup beneath. Makeup artists generally have to use an entirely different process to add shine to skin that also has makeup applied but if you're after some quick tips to add shine to the rest of the body read on.

JakeHicksPhotography (1 of 4)sq.jpg

1. Baby Oil

This is the classic 'go-to' skin shine solution. It's very cheap, very readily available and requires no knowledge to make it work. Simply ask the model to apply liberally to the skin and you're ready to shoot. One thing I will add is that different skin types will require more regular applications. Some naturally oily skin will just need one application but other dryer skin types will need the oil to be topped up every few minutes as it gets rapidly absorbed.

Johnsons Baby Oil - Amazon

 
JakeHicksPhotography (4 of 4)sq.jpg

2. Glycerin

This one is a little less well known but one that is incredibly effective. Glycerin can often be found in pharmacies and chemists as it's often used to treat very dry skin like eczema sufferers. Glycerin is clear, odourless and (apparently) sweet in taste, plus it's also very cheap. The key quality that we're looking for is that it's very thick... like spoon thick. This viscosity results in a perfect combination for what we're after when it comes to creating shiny skin. Food photographers will often use glycerin to simulate those perfect beads of water on fruit that you see in shots, so if you're after a sport-look with a lot of shiny sweat on the skin, glycerin is the solution.

Glycerin - Boots

 
JakeHicksPhotography (2 of 4)sq.jpg

3. After Shower Mist

This one is a little harder to describe and get a hold of but if you find a good one, this mist can produce some great shiny skin looks. The premise behind this product is that it produces a very fine, clear mist straight out of a can making it very fast and easy to apply but also results in an even spread all over the skin.

The core thing you're looking for in this product is that it's 'clear' when you spray it. I have tried countless mists in the past but they often have a moisturising element added to them which results in a white spray that needs to be rubbed in, you need to find one that sprays totally clear. I'm using a relatively pricey one here but the simple water-in-a-can ones are cheaper and also work.

Aveeno Shower Mist - Tesco

 
JakeHicksPhotography (3 of 4)sq.jpg

4. Hair Sheen Spray

This sheen spray gives a similar look to the baby oil but has the benefit of not needing to be applied by hand. The downside to baby oil is that it needs to be rubbed into the skin by hand which can reduce the skin shine as it gets absorbed, this spray negates that as it can be sprayed from a distance without requiring to be rubbed in. This sheen spray is designed for extremely dry hair and it's core ingredient is actually olive oil meaning that once your model is covered in this, it will stay on the skin an awful lot longer than baby oil before being absorbed. This is a specialist hair spray but it is often found in most afro caribbean hair shops or in the world-beauty section of larger stores including super markets.

ORS Olive Oil Nourishing Spray - Superdrug

 

5. The Glycerin/Water Combo

As I mentioned above, the glycerin is very thick and globular so although great for shine it can be a real pain to apply to the body. As a result I have a glycerin and water mix in a separate water spray holder that I can spray onto the body with a lot more ease. You can experiment with various amounts of each yourself but I've found three parts water, one part glycerin is a good place to start. I also find this mix can be a great addition to skin that already has baby oil applied to it. Once the skin has been oiled first, this can then be sprayed on top to get that beaded water effect.

Pro Tip: If you haven't used the solution in a while, just give it a shake to make sure the glycerin and water are mixed and spray as you normally would.

mixing glycerin beaded water small copy.jpg
 
JakeHicksPhotography (3 of 5).jpg

Closing Comments

As always, I really appreciate your time in checking out this article. I hope you found a couple of these shiny skin techniques useful but let me know if you have any alternatives :)

Also, If you're new here then feel free to join our very active community of like minded lighting-nerds (c'mon, admit it, you're one of us :D ) on my Facebook page. I'm always discussing lighting ideas and offering feedback on community images over there.

If you'd like to stay up to date on more photography related tips and techniques then sign up to my mailing list where I'll send you a monthly roundup of all my articles (plus signing up gets you a free 10 page studio lighting pdf too :) ). Thanks again and I'll see you all in the next one.

-cut out and keep- (click to enlarge)


:WARNING: Sales pitch ahoy!


If you're interested in any of my work and would like to know more about how I created some of my shots then why not check out my workshops. Here you can find out everything there is to know about Gelled Lighting, Long Exposure Flash Photography and my entire Post-Pro Workflow. Jake Hicks Photography - Workshops

gel workshop trio.jpg

I've also just released a brand new 22 hour complete Gelled Lighting Tutorial video. I go over everything from studio lighting setups with gels to being on location with gels plus I also go through my complete retouching and post pro workflow. For more details and complete breakdown of everything that's include check out my Coloured Gel Portraits Tutorial

gel trio set video.jpg

I also offer comprehensive coloured gel packs. These collections of gels are what I use day to day to create some of the most highly saturated colours around. If you're looking at getting into gelled lighting or need to get stronger and richer colours in your coloured gel work why not check out my Jake Hicks Photography Gel Packs

gel trio set crop.jpg
Tuesday 04.24.18
Posted by Jake Hicks
Comments: 3
 

Is a Personal Editing Style Just as Important as a Photographic Style?

Technique Tuesday personal edit stlye.jpg
It takes guts to share your 'before' and 'after' edits so as part of the competition, I got the ball rolling by sharing mine.

It takes guts to share your 'before' and 'after' edits so as part of the competition, I got the ball rolling by sharing mine.

The Competition

Chances are most of you arriving here are aware of the backstory to this article, but if you arrived here via the Google signposts, I'll quickly catch you up.

A few weeks ago I announced a community competition on my Facebook page; all you had to do to enter was to submit a 'before' photo (the raw) and an 'after' photo (the final fully retouched photo). There would be two winners; one chosen by a populous vote and one chosen myself. The winners would then receive their entries fully retouched by myself.

How important is post-pro in todays photography market?

Beyond the simple fun of entering a photographic competition my goal was to outline and showcase the importance of a post-pro process. How important is post-pro in our current photographic market? Are we simply polishing and enhancing our photos or can post-pro play more of a significant role in the final image?

Digital photography has divided some people in what it means to produce a truly great photograph. There are those who believe a photo should be untouched and even simple colour correction is frowned upon, but there are certainly a lot who believe there is no limit to what can be tweaked, adjusted and manipulated to achieve that truly great and perfect image.

Like me, you probably sit somewhere in the middle, you try to get as much as possible done in-camera, but you're not shy about using programs like Lightroom and Photoshop to really bring your image to life in whatever way you see fit.

The purpose of this exercise was to illustrate how incredibly powerful the post-pro process can be by getting multiple people to retouch the same file. Namely you guys and then by me. The competition winners are shown below.

With the winners of the competition announced, all that was left for me to do, was to retouch the wining shots myself.

We had two lots of winners, three who were chosen by me and one winner who was chosen by a community vote.

Photograph or Digital Image?

At this point I think we can just agree post-pro is a fundamental part of our industry and chances are, if you're still reading this then you, like me, retouch your own images. Now that we all agree post-pro is part of our process we next need to address the topic of, 'how big a part does post-pro play?'

In my recent experience I have witness some truly phenomenal retouching work from freelance, professional retouchers. In once such case I was recently contacted by one of these retouchers as they were offering me their services. consequently they sent me a portfolio of their work and understandably they included some of their more challenging jobs.

What I saw frankly took my breath away. They sent me 'before' and 'after' images of a professional photographer that I knew, and as you would expect, the 'after' shot was magnificent. Sadly, the 'before' (raw) was nothing short of disgraceful.

If I had submitted that poorly lit and underexposed shot of an awkward pose on a lifeless model when I was at college, I would have failed. But this was a working professional photographers work, how can that be?

The stark reality of this is that we now live in an age where every pixel can be punished beyond recognition and if you're willing to pay for it, practically anything can be 'saved' (resurrected) by a professional retoucher and not only used, but sold in a commercial market.

The retoucher in question had practically relit the image with dodge and burn, removed an awkward hand from the frame, brightened eyes and added catchlights, and we haven't even got to the flawless skin retouching, sharpening and colour toning yet.

If I was asked who the photographer was on that image, it should be the retouchers name by it as the real photographer was more like a hinderance to finished product if anything.

Personal Editing Style

Granted, I'm sure this is an extreme example but it does illustrate just how fundamental retouching is in our current professional market. So now that we've established post-pro is important, how are each of us approaching it?

It was my goal with this competition to take your images and retouch them as I saw fit based on my personal editing style. Those that entered and won had already retouched the shots so now it was my turn. In the end I chose three files to retouch plus the top voted shot. The winners kindly sent me their raw files and I did everything in my power to block out their final edits and just concentrate on what I would normally do had I taken the shot to begin with.

The results can be seen below but I purposefully chose these three as I felt I could offer a different approach and look to what the original photographers had done. I'll explain this in more detail below but it's important to note that this is an exercise in showing a different approach, not better or worse.

 

All images below can be clicked to enlarge to full screen.

Gelled Studio Portrait Winner Clovis Durand chosen by me.

Photo by Clovis Durand - BEFORE

Photo by Clovis Durand - BEFORE

Photo and Edit by Clovis Durand - AFTER

Photo by Clovis Durand - Edit by Jake Hicks Photography AFTER

A timelapse of the Jake Hicks Photoshop edit. Original photo by Clovis Durand.

 

Populas vote winner David Schick

Photo by David Schick - BEFORE

Photo by David Schick - BEFORE

Photo and Edit by David Schick - AFTER

Photo by David Schick - Edit by Jake Hicks Photography AFTER

A timelapse of the Jake Hicks Photoshop edit. Original photo by David Schick.

 

Environmental Portrait Winner Simon Carter Chosen by me

Photo by Simon Carter - BEFORE

Photo by Simon Carter - BEFORE

Photo and edit by Simon Carter - AFTER

Photo by Simon Carter - Edit by Jake Hicks Photography AFTER

A timelapse of the Jake Hicks Photoshop edit. Original photo by Simon Carter.

 

White Light Studio Portrait Winner Stuart Thornes chosen by me.

Photo by Stuart Thornes - BEFORE

Photo by Stuart Thornes - BEFORE

Photo and edit by Stuart Thornes - AFTER

Photo by Stuart Thornes - Edit by Jake Hicks Photography AFTER

A timelapse of the Jake Hicks Photoshop edit. Original photo by Stuart Thornes.

 

Retouching is not about right and wrong

Firstly, I want to thank everybody once again who took part in this competition, I think we had over 30 entries in the end which is amazing as I was worried nobody would take part. The reason for this is because I think we as photographers are very secretive about our raw shots and I fully respect all of you that put that aside to take part in this.

If you'd like to see all the other entries, including all of their 'before' and 'afters' then the post is still live on my Facebook page here.

Secondly, I want to point out that this was not an exercise in highlighting right and wrong ways to edit an image. All of the 'after' shots posted up there by the winners are all viable interpretations of the source image, and my final edit is just another example of how I personally retouched the shot. It's not better or worse, simply different and it's that difference that I want to drive home here. Post-producition is a critically fundamental part of creating a photograph in our current photographic generation, failing to fully realise its full potential and scope could be doing your source material a huge disservice.

So to answer the question that was the title of this post 'Is a Personal Editing Style Just as Important as a Photographic Style?' Absolutely! In my mind, the post-pro style is actually fast becoming the more important style to get right. The post-pro can be the deciding factor of what makes a good or terrible image and it can also be the unifying look that ties your portfolio, and ultimately your photographic style all together.

If you're learning post-production (just like we all are) then be sure to seek out great retouchers to learn from just like you would seek out great photographers to learn from. Yes of course you can learn from me (you knew that was coming) I have online video tutorials as well as in person workshops, but honestly the point of this article is to find retouchers that work well with your photographic style and learn from them. Remember, photography is art so there is no right or wrong, only what you prefer.

Closing Comments

As always, I really appreciate your time in checking out this article. I hope you found the results interesting because I certainly did, and this was only made possible thanks to the outstanding support and interaction of my community. You guys rock :)

Also, If you're new here then feel free to join our very active community of like minded lighting-nerds (c'mon, admit it, you're one of us :D ) on my Facebook page. I'm always discussing lighting ideas and offering feedback on community images over there.

If you'd like to stay up to date on more photography related tips and techniques then sign up to my mailing list where I'll send you a monthly roundup of all my articles (plus signing up gets you a free 10 page studio lighting pdf too :) ). Thanks again and I'll see you all in the next one.


:WARNING: 'Probably' the worlds best photographic tools await below :D


If you're interested in any of my work and would like to know more about how I created some of my shots then why not check out my workshops. Here you can find out everything there is to know about Gelled Lighting, Long Exposure Flash Photography and my entire Post-Pro Workflow. Jake Hicks Photography - Workshops

gel workshop trio.jpg

I've also just released a brand new 22 hour complete Gelled Lighting Tutorial video. I go over everything from studio lighting setups with gels to being on location with gels plus I also go through my complete retouching and post pro workflow. For more details and complete breakdown of everything that's include check out my Coloured Gel Portraits Tutorial

gel trio set video.jpg

I also offer comprehensive coloured gel packs. These collections of gels are what I use day to day to create some of the most highly saturated colours around. If you're looking at getting into gelled lighting or need to get stronger and richer colours in your coloured gel work why not check out my Jake Hicks Photography Gel Packs

gel trio set crop.jpg
Tuesday 04.17.18
Posted by Jake Hicks
 

Simple and Effective Two Light Setup for 'Shoot Throughs'

Technique Tuesday Simple and Effective Two Light Setup for Shoot Throughs.jpg

You may well be wondering what 'shoot throughs' actually are, but put simply it refers to anything that you photograph through in the foreground of your shot. So for example, you could be taking a regular portrait but in addition to the regular portrait setup, you would have a transparent object like a glass between the lens and the subject to create a visual depth to the shot. This article aims to explain a very simple but very effective two light setup to get the best results for this type of shot.

A couple of weeks ago I sent out an email to my newsletter subscribers with a creative portrait tip for them to try over the weekend. The tip was to try shooting your normal portraits but with the addition of a foreground element and over that weekend I received several messages in response to this asking for further ideas on how to get better results. This article aims to answer those messages so let's take a look at a few simple but important factors to remember if you're trying to use 'shoot throughs'.

 

-Click to Enlarge- Adding artificial foreground elements to your shot can create visual depth that will draw your viewers in.

Get engaging results no matter the subject

Sometimes we can get stuck for ideas when it comes to creating a visually engaging portrait. It’s fine if you have a model that can add drama and interest through pose and expression, but sometimes we’re photographing regular people like you and I that find it hard to act natural and engaging in front of the lens. By introducing interesting elements into your fame you can  add drama without relying on the subject to do so and in this very simple setup we’ll be adding interest by photographing our subject whilst holding glassware in front of our cameras lens.

Shoot Checklist

  • Camera
  • Fast portrait lens (a lens with an aperture of at least f2.8 if possible). 50mm or 85mm will be ideal.
  • 2 Flashes (speedlights or studio strobes)
  • Beauty dish or small softbox
  • Gridded reflector or reflector with barn doors
  • Dark Backdrop/Background
  • Glassware

The First Trick to Success

If we set our aperture to something wide like f2.8 and focus on the subject, the foreground element we’re holding in front of our lens wont look like glasses at all, in fact they’ll create a beautiful and dreamy flared effect that can not only add a sense of depth to our shot but it can also add visual interest that will catch our viewers attention.

 
Holding glassware in front of your lens is a very easy and affordable way to get some creative in-camera effects. Any glass, bowl or vase will work because &nbsp;we will be shooting at a very shallow depth of field so whatever you use it will be com…

Holding glassware in front of your lens is a very easy and affordable way to get some creative in-camera effects. Any glass, bowl or vase will work because  we will be shooting at a very shallow depth of field so whatever you use it will be completely out of focus as we keep our subject in sharp focus.

The 'Shoot Through'

The setup itself is fairly simple as all you’ll need is a couple of lights and a suitable background. Of course you’ll also need the 'shoot through' and in this instance that's going to be just regular glasses like wine glasses or any other drinks glass. Ideally, try to find some ornate ones if you can as they often have intricate glass cut patterns on them that will catch the light perfectly for what we’re after. If you don’t have any at home, be sure to check some charity shops as they'll usually have plenty of these more old-fashioned style glasses and they'll be very inexpensive too.

The Background

Once you have your glasses and your subject you'll need to set up your background. Don’t worry too much about what the background looks like as you’ll be shooting at a very shallow depth of field so it will be completely out of focus anyway. What I would recommend though is that a darker background will produce better results. The shoot throughs will produce highlights which are bright so they wont be as pronounced in your shot if you're using a white backdrop.

The Lighting

Model Light

This is only a two light setup so there's not too much to get wrong thankfully. Begin by setting up your key light with your beauty dish or small softbox and place it close enough to your model and background so that that light spills past the model and onto the background as well. More details on this can be found in the steps below.

Sparkle Light

Once we're happy with our key light, we can now add our second light which we'll call our 'sparkle light'. This is the sparkle light as this is actually the light that will cause the highlights and sparkles to appear in the shot. It's this fundamental point that a lot of people overlooked because we can't simply hold items in front of our lenses and expect them to sparkle on their own, we have to get them to catch the light and we'll do that with the addition of this light.

Position the sparkle light out of shot next to the model and point it back towards the camera so that it will create those beautiful dreamy sparkle effects in shot. Because we don't necessarily want this light to spill onto the entire set we so we will have a gridded reflector or barn doors on this to control the pool of light just onto the glasses in front of the lens.


The Steps

Step 1 - Keylight Placement

Place your keylight at about arms length away from your subject, just above their head and angled down at about 45 degrees. You can use a beauty dish if you have one or a small 60cmx60cm softbox can also work.

Setting up your keylight first is the best place to start and I prefer a beauty dish but a small softbox will also work.

Setting up your keylight first is the best place to start and I prefer a beauty dish but a small softbox will also work.


Step 2 - Adding a Second Light

This second lights job is to light the glassware only, so place it off to one side and out of shot. Aim this light back towards the camera which is where you'll be holding the glass.

Pro Tip: If you have space, you can also double this light up as a hair-light and place it behind the subject so that it lights both their hair and the glassware.
The second light is going to be our 'sparkle light'.

The second light is going to be our 'sparkle light'.


Step 3 - The background

The background isn't overly important in this setup because we will shooting at a very shallow depth of field meaning that whatever is behind the subject will be out of focus anyway. I would recommend a darker backdrop if you have one though as this will allow for the brighter highlights of the sparkles to show up against it. If you're shooting in a home studio then choose something simple so as not to distract from the foreground elements too much.

The background will be out of focus so it's not too important but I would recommend a darker one if you have it.

The background will be out of focus so it's not too important but I would recommend a darker one if you have it.


Step 4 - Model Placement

Position the model far enough away from the lens so that you can create the depth of field effect in-camera. I opted to use an 85mm lens at f2.8 and positioned the model about 3ft/100cm from the camera and about 1-2ft/30-60cm away from the background. That way the keylight will spill onto the background as well.

Placing your model close to the background will allow us to light the background at the same time as the model with our keylight.

Placing your model close to the background will allow us to light the background at the same time as the model with our keylight.


Step 5 - Camera Settings

We're finally about ready to begin shooting so all we have to do now is setup our camera and because we're using flash we want to set up our camera accordingly. Always aim to have your ISO as low as possible so I opted for ISO 100, next I want to sync my shutter speed to my flashes but if you're not sure what your camera syncs too, stick to 1/125th to be on the safe side. Lastly, set your aperture to as wide as your lens will allow so for me that was f2.8.

Setting up your camera to work with off-camera flash.

Setting up your camera to work with off-camera flash.


Step 6 - Holding the glassware

This might seem obvious but there are few key things to bear in mind when shooting through glassware. Try to hold the camera in one hand (or use a tripod if you have one) and the glass in the other hand. Always experiment with having more or less glass in front of the lens as the effects can vary wildly from lens to lens and glass to glass.

Pro Tip: Be careful to not rest the glassware against your actual lens as it may mark or scratch the lens coating.
Holding the glass close to the lens will ensure the bokeh sparkle effect. Be careful to not let the glass scratch your lens though.

Holding the glass close to the lens will ensure the bokeh sparkle effect. Be careful to not let the glass scratch your lens though.


The Setup

-Click to enlarge-


Closing Comments

Thanks as always for checking out this article, I hope you found a couple of things in here to try and play with. Even if you knew the essential premise of the setup, maybe there is an element that you hadn't thought of using previously. As always, if you have any questions then let me know and I'll do my best to answer them as quickly as I can.

Also, If you're new here then feel free to join our very active community of like minded lighting-nerds (c'mon, admit it, you're one of us :D ) on my Facebook page. I'm always discussing lighting ideas and offering feedback on community images over there.

If you'd like to stay up to date on more photography related tips and techniques then sign up to my mailing list where I'll send you a monthly roundup of all my articles (plus signing up gets you a free 10 page studio lighting pdf too :) ). Thanks again and I'll see you all in the next one.


:WARNING: You can buy your way to greatness below :D


If you're interested in any of my work and would like to know more about how I created some of my shots then why not check out my workshops. Here you can find out everything there is to know about Gelled Lighting, Long Exposure Flash Photography and my entire Post-Pro Workflow. Jake Hicks Photography - Workshops

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I've also just released a brand new 22 hour complete Gelled Lighting Tutorial video. I go over everything from studio lighting setups with gels to being on location with gels plus I also go through my complete retouching and post pro workflow. For more details and complete breakdown of everything that's include check out my Coloured Gel Portraits Tutorial

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I also offer comprehensive coloured gel packs. These collections of gels are what I use day to day to create some of the most highly saturated colours around. If you're looking at getting into gelled lighting or need to get stronger and richer colours in your coloured gel work why not check out my Jake Hicks Photography Gel Packs

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Tuesday 04.10.18
Posted by Jake Hicks
 
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