We all know there is a seemingly limitless amount of gear we can get for the studio and clamps seemingly make up a large part of that. We have the crab, duck bill, platypus, Quaker, super, mini… the list goes on and on, and although these clamps all do different things, they all have one thing in common - they can be pricey!
Budget platypus clamp…
So to save a few quid, here’s an easy-to-find alternative to the somewhat pricey Platypus clamp. All you need look out for is a ‘locking pliers metal clamp’. As to be expected, these have a ton of various names such as ‘vice-grips’, ‘mole-grips’, ‘self-grips’ and more, so if you’re looking for them, be sure to try those key words as well to find the one you’re after.
The ‘metal clamp’ portion isn't to signify you’re looking for one made out of metal, but instead it refers to the nose on these pliers which is designed to hold metal sheets for welding.
Granted, these metal sheet holding clamps don’t have the same size jaws as a true platypus clamp, but if you don’t need to hold large poly-boards on set, these far-cheaper alternatives should have you covered.
What are these clamps for?
What can we use these budget platypus clamps for? Really, anything flat that requires being held in place. For example black-flags on set, reflectors, mirrors and even the product itself if you’re shooting still life.
These wide-mouthed and flat clamps are great for holding black-flags and reflectors as well as many other flat items on set.
Why not use a regular clamp instead?
The huge benefit of these particular clamps is the locking capability of the jaws themselves, as you can adjust the width at which they clamp down on something and this the reason these pliers are favoured over simply using a regular clamp. Ordinarily a clamp would grip something by applying pressure to the two very small contact points on either side of the object. The locking pliers are designed to spread that pressure over the surface of its jaws which makes them ideal for holding large flat objects without you crushing them in the clamp or them slipping or falling out, which is usually what would happen with regular clamps.
Grip-Heads
The only other thing we need to make these work on set is a ‘grip-head’. These grip-heads are often found on your C-stands and are extremely common and usually plentiful in all studios, but if you need some, you can buy them separately. Personally though, I’d recommend saving a bit more money and getting a full-blown C-stand that usually comes with 2 of these as well as boom included.
To make the clamp work with your grip-head, simply slot the perfectly shaped and sized handle of the clamp in the boom slot of the grip-head. Job done. This actually works surprisingly well as the clamps tightening screw results in a rounded handle on one side and its this somewhat cylindrical handle that fits perfectly and snuggly in the grip-head.
From here you can then attach that grip-head to any light-stand you have, but for best results and the most flexibility in terms of movement, a C-stand and boom is the best option.
You can use the pliers and grip-head combo on any lightstand, but the C-stand and boom will give the most precise control
As I started to light bigger sets and light on location, I’ve been using this budget clamp combo for years and as I mentioned at the top, as long as you dont need to hold huge polyboards up high on set, this little DIY clamp will cover most things flat and is likely a must for many still-life shooters that need to clamp backgrounds or reflectors etc.
It’s certainly not a big investment, so it may well be worth grabbing one or more to have around, especially if you already have the c-stands and grip-heads, this is a no-brainer!
I’ve been using one of these budget mini-platypus clamps for a while and they are always handy to have on set.
Purchasing options…
Disclaimer: I know people can be sensitive to me recommending things, so before anyone starts grumbling, there are no affiliate links, codes, vouchers or signups. No sponsorships or promotional content, please choose to either purchase this or not of your free will. I promise you, I do not profit in any way from sharing this information with you for free😂
There are of course lots of places you can purchase these from, here are a couple after I did a quick Google. At the very least it’ll give you an idea for what you should be searching for.
eBay: Welding Clamps Locking Grips C Clamps Locking U Clamp Sheet Metal Fasteners
Price: £10.00
Link: Here
Amazon: Welding Clamp Flat Blade Type Quick Release Locking Holder Clasp 10" (255mm)
Price: £10.00
Link: Here
P.S. pls try use to anybody but Amazon
Grip Head
If you don’t have a grip-head, you can get them here at Essential Photo which is where I get all my photo-gear in the U.K.
Thank You
As always, thanks for checking out this article and spending a little bit of your day with me here. I hope you found it useful and if you left with a little more knowledge than when you arrived, it’s been worth it.
If you have any questions or comments, or if something doesn’t make sense, by all means, fire away in the comments below and I’ll do my best to answer what I can. Thanks again and I’ll see you in the next one.
Don’t forget to sign up to my newsletter to be sent all of these photo tips and techniques articles every month in case you miss one.
JHP Livestreams…
If you give this setup a go, I’d love to see how the shots turn out, so feel free to share them my way. One way to do that is via my Livestream. I Livestream every other Tuesday night via my FB Page and there I answer your questions, critique your shots, take community images into Photoshop to work on them and discuss all manner of lighting tips and techniques. I look forward to seeing you and your work there real soon. JHP Facebook Page
Missed the Livestreams? Check the VODS!
This year I’ve also been uploading my Facebook livestreams to my YouTube channel for those that missed them… or never want to touch Facebook again.
Watch my livestream VODs here: Jake Hicks Photography YouTube
